Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil In My Coolant...... :-(

kidafa

By kidafa,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the response Ryan :-)

Recommendations on where I should go? JMS is close and handy as is GT Autosound but not sure if George and Theo have the testing stuff....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted

The radiator may have been flushed, but what about the block. There's always the scenario that that crap is coming from the block, even if the block was flushed also. There will always be little traces of gunk that will filter thru the motor at a later time.

Seeing as there is no chocolate milkshake in your sump, and only small traces of oily residue on your cap, I'd do a pressure test at a starting point. Then monitor the radiator and oil in sump at weekly intervals if the leak down test is okay. Just keep an eye on it for now.

:thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Update:

Today I got the car compression tested and TK tested (checksfor combustion gasses in the coolant).

Compression results were as follows: 1. 155 2. 160 3. 135 4. 145. 5. 160 6. 160.

TK test showed NO sign of combustion gasses in the coolant.

When I first dropped the car off and left they called within15 minutes asking for me to come back as they wanted me to show them what I wasworried about because at the time when they first pulled the cap of their wasno oil or anything around but by the time i walked back a little bit hadbubbled up. Mechanic assumes that the headgasket might be on the way out but it’sin its VERY early stages.

He suggested that I lower the boost (currently at 12psi) becausesometimes It hits fuel cut when you boot it (saying that this is very rare as Ibaby it mostly...) and that I just monitor the temperature and oil and coolantlevels.

Just after a couple more opinions on it, perhaps I shouldjust monitor it and keep my eye out for a wrecked stag and buy the donk....

Rough prices was $1500 for head gasket (metal) replacement aslong as my head is fine or worst case scenario $2500.

Thanks once again guys J

Edited by kidafa
Link to comment
Share on other sites
SLED Grand Master

SLED

Posted
Posted

oil in your radiator is not good but can still be driven for a short distance (depending on the amount)

however, water in your sump means "turn engine off immediately"!

Just because a TK test showed NO sign of combustion gasses in the coolant, doesn't mean that there isn't a track between an oil gallery and a water jacket, either via a crack or a damaged head gasket. Head gasket may be sealing the cylinders well hence no drastic drop in compressions.....damage obviously elswhere.

My suggestion is to flush both oil & cooling system out then start again and monitor very closely...........do not boost its head off in the meantime!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

Posted
Posted

throw in a bottle of iron tight with clean water then dump it after a week and fill with normal coolant could go for yrs once its had this treatment . ive seen sprintcar engines leak like a sieve and one treatment of this they see a season out ..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted

Same thing happened to me last year

Comp test was fine, as was leakdown, however pushing the 20 year old oem gasket to 19psi blew the seal between the cylinder (which the surrounding gasket was already deteriorated for 1cm in diameter around the whole thing) until it met the water lines. The amount of oil in the rad wasn't huge, but I wasn't going to risk it.

Thankfully Ruby was a champ and was able to strip it down and fit a new cometic mls gasket for me, and its been running beautifully ever since it was tuned up to the new gasket/bolts/all other stuff ruby got me to replace.

Chances are if you've got a 20 yr old car that hasn't had the gasket replaced, its kaputski...

-D

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the input guys.

Not really that keen on a band-aid fix tbk mid-life; love the car and don't plan on getting rid of it....

That's It D im the same, don't really want to risk it hay.

No idea if it could be an intakemanifold gasket kawa.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted

Don't use a metal head gasket unless your are going to prep both surfaces to the correct finish. MLS gaskets require a RA (roughness average) of 50 or better so unless you are machining both the surfaces use an organic gasket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the input guys.

Not really that keen on a band-aid fix tbk mid-life; love the car and don't plan on getting rid of it....

That's It D im the same, don't really want to risk it hay.

No idea if it could be an intakemanifold gasket kawa.

iron tight is used in new diesel engines to seal of the sleeves that the pistons sit in so its more than a bandaid fix . i had a nissan patrol that overheated ten minutes after driving it due the a cracked head one bottle of irion tight and i drove that patrol around for another 6 yrs without pulling the head off and it was still going strong when i sold it .

ive used it on the night to fix head gaskets that blew when i raced turbo holden 6 at speedway and finished the season without pulling the head but anyway i was just offering something that may help till you could afford to pull the head or replace the motor .

cheers dean

Link to comment
Share on other sites
nicr4wks Experienced

nicr4wks

Posted
Posted

I've got a new 25det S2 head gasket left over from a VRS kit I didn't use. It's only an aftermarket oem replacement so nothing fancy.

Look around and decide what path you want to take, 60 bucks if you want it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mid life..... Hope you didnt take my response as a personal stab or anything. Thanks for the idea but not real keen on doing that as ive got plenty of funds to fix this just working out the best economical way to do it properly....

So what parts will I need? Just a full VRS gasket kit?

Who has used a metal gasket with only machining the head and not the block?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things. Preparing some projects for this winter, as I'm taking 13 weeks off very soon for parental leave. Have my second kid on the way and he's due any week now. I'll need something to do while he's sleeping. I also usually take the car off the road in about a month and a half, until sometime around the end of March.  Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad.  I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day.  I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later. Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action.   
    • TurboTapin
      Idle issue rb20det

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Have you done a pressure test on your intake/piping? Cleaned your IACV and Cold start valve?
    • r32-25t
      Spotted on the street....

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Bit of a dump of ones I saw on my trip. I also have a heap from daikoko but that’s technically not  on the street 
    • HYBRID VL
      KISLOC2 line output convertor for subwoofer in Q50/V37

      By HYBRID VL · Posted

      i was thinking that the 2 wires that go to the sub from factory has some sort of preamp like you mentioned and also a lo Pass filter to get just bass. now that will only use 1 channel and that really should be all i need for a sub? if i was trying to put a set of speakers in the back i can understand cutting into the left and right speaker wires. i will try how im talking about doing it and if that is crap i will do it the way of all wires. thanks for the input guys.  
    • Equilibrise
      M35 Stagea intake suction pipe

      By Equilibrise · Posted

      Challenging mig welding thin Aluminium pipe and trying to fit it in, having to bend and twist, but got there in the end. Fits really well and can easily get a socket wrench in there now to put it on/off. I'm in the middle of another project, so haven't installed the suction pipe yet. I'll post some pictures and results when i do.
×
×
  • Create New...