Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The radiator may have been flushed, but what about the block. There's always the scenario that that crap is coming from the block, even if the block was flushed also. There will always be little traces of gunk that will filter thru the motor at a later time.

Seeing as there is no chocolate milkshake in your sump, and only small traces of oily residue on your cap, I'd do a pressure test at a starting point. Then monitor the radiator and oil in sump at weekly intervals if the leak down test is okay. Just keep an eye on it for now.

:thumbsup:

Update:

Today I got the car compression tested and TK tested (checksfor combustion gasses in the coolant).

Compression results were as follows: 1. 155 2. 160 3. 135 4. 145. 5. 160 6. 160.

TK test showed NO sign of combustion gasses in the coolant.

When I first dropped the car off and left they called within15 minutes asking for me to come back as they wanted me to show them what I wasworried about because at the time when they first pulled the cap of their wasno oil or anything around but by the time i walked back a little bit hadbubbled up. Mechanic assumes that the headgasket might be on the way out but it’sin its VERY early stages.

He suggested that I lower the boost (currently at 12psi) becausesometimes It hits fuel cut when you boot it (saying that this is very rare as Ibaby it mostly...) and that I just monitor the temperature and oil and coolantlevels.

Just after a couple more opinions on it, perhaps I shouldjust monitor it and keep my eye out for a wrecked stag and buy the donk....

Rough prices was $1500 for head gasket (metal) replacement aslong as my head is fine or worst case scenario $2500.

Thanks once again guys J

Edited by kidafa

oil in your radiator is not good but can still be driven for a short distance (depending on the amount)

however, water in your sump means "turn engine off immediately"!

Just because a TK test showed NO sign of combustion gasses in the coolant, doesn't mean that there isn't a track between an oil gallery and a water jacket, either via a crack or a damaged head gasket. Head gasket may be sealing the cylinders well hence no drastic drop in compressions.....damage obviously elswhere.

My suggestion is to flush both oil & cooling system out then start again and monitor very closely...........do not boost its head off in the meantime!

throw in a bottle of iron tight with clean water then dump it after a week and fill with normal coolant could go for yrs once its had this treatment . ive seen sprintcar engines leak like a sieve and one treatment of this they see a season out ..

Same thing happened to me last year

Comp test was fine, as was leakdown, however pushing the 20 year old oem gasket to 19psi blew the seal between the cylinder (which the surrounding gasket was already deteriorated for 1cm in diameter around the whole thing) until it met the water lines. The amount of oil in the rad wasn't huge, but I wasn't going to risk it.

Thankfully Ruby was a champ and was able to strip it down and fit a new cometic mls gasket for me, and its been running beautifully ever since it was tuned up to the new gasket/bolts/all other stuff ruby got me to replace.

Chances are if you've got a 20 yr old car that hasn't had the gasket replaced, its kaputski...

-D

Thanks for the input guys.

Not really that keen on a band-aid fix tbk mid-life; love the car and don't plan on getting rid of it....

That's It D im the same, don't really want to risk it hay.

No idea if it could be an intakemanifold gasket kawa.

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the input guys.

Not really that keen on a band-aid fix tbk mid-life; love the car and don't plan on getting rid of it....

That's It D im the same, don't really want to risk it hay.

No idea if it could be an intakemanifold gasket kawa.

iron tight is used in new diesel engines to seal of the sleeves that the pistons sit in so its more than a bandaid fix . i had a nissan patrol that overheated ten minutes after driving it due the a cracked head one bottle of irion tight and i drove that patrol around for another 6 yrs without pulling the head off and it was still going strong when i sold it .

ive used it on the night to fix head gaskets that blew when i raced turbo holden 6 at speedway and finished the season without pulling the head but anyway i was just offering something that may help till you could afford to pull the head or replace the motor .

cheers dean

Mid life..... Hope you didnt take my response as a personal stab or anything. Thanks for the idea but not real keen on doing that as ive got plenty of funds to fix this just working out the best economical way to do it properly....

So what parts will I need? Just a full VRS gasket kit?

Who has used a metal gasket with only machining the head and not the block?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...