Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I currently bought an R33 V spec Le mans edition and having most of the parts required . My specs are as follow;

Haltech Platinum ECU

JUN oil pump

Tomei Piston

N1 Crank

HKS GT2540 (Twin)

Twin Plate

HKS 1000cc injector

etc.

Currently i am having a issue of choosing con rods whether H or I and what bearing should i use.

I am now looking at Nitto H beam con rod or Eagle rod and i should be expecting ard 750 HP or more after tuned.

Any advise whether should i use H or I beam rod and what bearing should i use.

Your advise is crucial of whether should i get a Normal Eagle Con rod or nitto I beam rod.

Also, what recommendation will you give for improvement?

Any 1 has the same turbo setup? mind sharing the result in quarter miles and whether twin plate is good enough?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372166-advise-needed-con-rod/
Share on other sites

As for rods Eagles outta the US are cheap. As are Tomei rods as well at the moment.

With regards to the H vs I debate, read this thread and decide yourself (or simply talk to your engine builder?): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/173552-h-beam-vs-i-beam-conrods/page__hl__beam

Apart from that I think you'll be hard pressed to make 750hp on HKS 2540s

HKS 2540s are a "mis match". One of the worse turbos you can purchase really. They will make a similar amount of power to a 2530 (~400rwkw), but with more lag, and they tend to be quite surge prone. Kinda like a GT-RS (new generation), especially on a 2.6ltr.

Hi All,

I currently bought an R33 V spec Le mans edition and having most of the parts required . My specs are as follow;

Haltech Platinum ECU

JUN oil pump

Tomei Piston

N1 Crank

HKS GT2540 (Twin)

Twin Plate

HKS 1000cc injector

etc.

Currently i am having a issue of choosing con rods whether H or I and what bearing should i use.

I am now looking at Nitto H beam con rod or Eagle rod and i should be expecting ard 750 HP or more after tuned.

Any advise whether should i use H or I beam rod and what bearing should i use.

Your advise is crucial of whether should i get a Normal Eagle Con rod or nitto I beam rod.

Also, what recommendation will you give for improvement?

Any 1 has the same turbo setup? mind sharing the result in quarter miles and whether twin plate is good enough?

Thanks

As for your rods get the ones with the larger rod bolts visit the Manleyperformance.com web site and download catalog it has info on what rods might suit you needs

Same, weve used Spool in everything pretty well. Not one issue with them, upto 800bhp.

Most of everything these days is made in China, even alot of the big name stuff you wouldnt think is. But the quality is getting better and better now, especially the companies who have their own QA over there keeping things in check.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
    • Rear turbo is leaky, most likely at the oil drain. From what I could see with my boroscope it seemed to have seeped out at the very top of that return hose. Is it possible that the oil climbs up that hose to then leak out? Yup, coolant leak on the hot side of the engine, only noticed after seeing clear rusty residue in the block right from the turbo oil feed downwards to the pan, and red droplets hanging from the pan. No clear sign yet from where it comes, and most of the lines there are hardlines right? Last year, seeing those red drops, I thought it was power steering, will be glad if that is not leaky at least. Another leaking hose I found by chance is the lower of the two heater core hoses coming from the firewall to the back of the head. That one is not too bad to get to if I have to replace.
    • I think for response I'm already kind of out there no? he -5s are not the best pick for that as the Internet tells me. Maybe I should switch to -7s while I still can? Though that almost definitely warrants an engine pull along with the other issues I have.
×
×
  • Create New...