Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok ppl heres the dillyo

ok so today i decide to finely get of my but n change my locks on my 32 which i have been meaning to do in awhile.

So i started with the 2 doors took the door cards of n everything n changed the lock which was quite ezy.

So the next 1 i did was my IGNITION which was a bit more complicated.

most of you guys would no why i.e taking the surrounding off to get to the lock and steering lock cylinder

Ok so i got the old 1 off and the new 1 on at lightning speed lol all surroundings back on and then as i went to test it

and kick her over thinking shed scream in to life . . . . . . . . . . . NOTHING

Everything was work she had spark fuel in the tank. But there was 1 sound missing the sound of that noisy fuel pump not priming.

So i checked all my lights and acc which were all working except for my elec windows

So by this time i was loosing sunlight so i thought id quickly check the fuses just in case n they seem to be ok.

And now im sitting on the laptop wondering what it could be

so if any one has the slight clue PM ME PLZ

Thanks guy

REWARD - AFM or FPR from a standed RB26

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372247-help-help-help/
Share on other sites

Fuses seemed ok ? make sure u test them lol

Grab a multy meter and test through the ignition barrel harness each wire on each key section off acc on etc.... and make sure their all fine... if no luck there im no auto elec so maby u should get a mobile auto elec to come test some shiz out ?

also if its after market get the installer to chek their work mainly if it was installed recently ...

other than that im outa ideas...

Good luck mate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372247-help-help-help/#findComment-5936088
Share on other sites

ok will do with the multi metre mate

ooooo n im not sure if this is the problem but its a rb26 in a gtst r32 n coz my old ignition was from a gtr n these locks are from a gtst so i was thinking it could be somthing in the ignition cylinder

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372247-help-help-help/#findComment-5936215
Share on other sites

OK ppl i spent prob bout 2hrs today working on the car and it was exactly what i thought it was.

for all u ppl that say R32 GTR locks are the same as GTST. Well your only half right cause alll the doors and boots are the same but the ignitions are different

so what i did was unscrew the back loom of my original lock cylinder n just simply swapped them over

SO ALL IN ALL CASE CLOSED

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372247-help-help-help/#findComment-5937731
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...