Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok this one has me buggered,

Just got car tunned was driving into work, almost at work then car lost all power, I suspected fuel pump because o was told the walbro gss 342 ( think that's the code) are crap, so i got into work ordered a new one, put it in and nothing pump isn't even priming, checked the PFC, found it's giving a signal, checked both relys and they are fine, checked the fuse ok. So we bridged the rely so the pump was constantly running, tryed to start and nothing just Cranking.

Car is a 1997 r33 gts-t series 2.

Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372337-car-wont-start/
Share on other sites

Is there power and earth at the pump?

Try to power up the old one off a battery directly and see if i works.

If it does then Double check the Power and earth at the pump in the boot.

If this all works out then check how u mounted it. If u used a hose clamp to hold to the mount then try backing the clamp off a little

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372337-car-wont-start/#findComment-5938877
Share on other sites

Funny I was just about to post up a thread for help haha .

Ok heres a story about my GTR hahah..

I was on my way to the SAU drag day... turning right on to loganlea road first gear takes off fine... turn the corner give it a little bit more gas and

serie_bang.jpg

Engine stops dead in its tracks and won't start...

The check engine light keeps flickering on and off on and off if I try to start it...

Checked the usual things Intercooler piping, plugs, coils, fuel pump still seems to prime and run so thats good and gives fuel pressure to the gauge...

It turns over fine but just does not want to fire....

Now the idea I had was try change the ignitior pack so I lined up my mates at field garage who have a track 33 gtr... well that didnt work..

I went and spoke to a guy that I know who works alot on cars and said he thinks it might be the Crank angle sensor has gone??? So I guess thats tomorrow jobby.. but I am just curious what you SAU gurus would have to tell me to check?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372337-car-wont-start/#findComment-5941296
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...