Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, dont know if you guys have ever had this problem, i cant hit rev limiter, i can hit 5500rpm and then the car just dies, throttle wide open, boost drops to 0 and car stops driving but still keeps revs to 5500rpm, the engine just stops pushing........no boost no pull no nothing, just stays there, with foot to the floor.

cant for the life of me figure out what it is.

but sometimes it does go away, but instead, at 5500rpm it cuts out for 2 seconds and then just keeps going as if nothing happened..

any helpful info would be great.

RB25 neo motor, no TCS in the car all stock besides exhaust and coilpacks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372403-problem-with-rb25-neo/
Share on other sites

yeah i got stock ecu too wit mild mods and my ecu

freaks out when i try tap into the boost i even tryed resettin it

but when i put a nistune in it runs sick

^^ or ya spark is breakin down coilpacks plugs

but generally when that happens its more of a stutter than a

complete cut

no fuel cut though, it doesnt cut out, it just stops accelerating. boost drops, and it will just stay at 5500rpm, wont drop below that and wont go above that... bloody weird, cleaned AFM, new plugs, and new coils. checked for any leaks, nothing. reset ecu, nothing... im lost now.

if i didnt just get fired, id opt for a Power FC, but gotta save money now.

sticking wastegate maybe?????

also just found this out, it has one of 2 problems,

Problem 1: any gear it wont rev up past the 5-6k mark but if it does manage to rev normally, problem 2 occurs

Problem 2: 1st gear, revs and hits boost and its all normal, hit 2nd and it has a 1 second cutout at 5-6k rpm, change to 3rd and it will continually cut out 5-6k rpm...... and same in 4th, cant hit above 5k rpm in 5th, it can only get to 180kmh

so if its not problem 1 its problem 2...... pissing me off!!!!!! RAAAAGE QUIT!!!!

oh, bad news for me today, i decided to install a boost gauge today to see what the turbo is running, as we all know i cant read or make out what the stock boost gauge says, it says -7 all the way to +7 mmhg, so connected the new gauge which is psi, i plugged it in between the manifold and purge valve, and took the car for a run, the boost gauge hit 13psi at 5000rpm in first and hit 15.5psi in 2nd and 16psi in 3rd. so if this is anything to go by, im pretty screwed.

all i did was disconnect the boost solenoid and did the constant 7psi trick as talked about, or so i hoped. guess it seems to be a 15psi trick instead.....

just changed back to original solenoid, and it runs back at normal PSI, 350mm/hg which is 6.8psi, so the original boost gauge is pretty spot on. before it went beyond the +7 on the boost gauge (700mm/hg= 13.5psi) damn!

so the 2 pipes that go into the solenoid, i originally bypassed, hose-solenoid-hose, i bypassed that and just connected the 2 hoses directly without the solenoid in the middle. thought it would just sit at 7psi like people said it would, but it didnt did it??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...