Clutch Pedal Adjustment.

[rad100]

hey all,

i have a rb25det + 25 gb.

its fitted with a exedy HD button.

issue im having is the bite point of the clutch is ON THE FLOOR!

so its very hard to drive/gear change.

how do i adjust the bite point?

[GTSBoy]

You need a head torch and/or other work light, a (I think) 10mm open ended spanner, nimble fingers or pointy nose pliers, or a specially made (by you) tool from a bit of bent sheetmetal with a notch cut in it to match the size of the flat on the clutch pedal push rod. Lie on your back, upside down under the steering wheel. Find the clutch push rod where it goes from the back of the pedal through the firewall. There is a lock nut around this rod located behind the back of the pedal. Loosen the locknut. Then you can rotate the rod to adjust the pedal freeplay. If you reduce the amount of rod sticking out the front side of the pedal, then you will lift the pedal off the floor.

BUT. BIG BUT. If you have to adjust the rod so far that there is no rod sticking out the front, and you still don't have a good pedal, then it is quite likely that your clutch master cylinder is buggered and you need a new one. Adjusting the pedal is only a bandaid where you have other real problems.

[The Dan]

12mm spanner, not 10mm

And yes, it's about getting the correct freeplay, not just getting it where you want it.

If you have a broken pedal box, buggered hydraulic system or a poorly adjusted pedal, then it has other issues.

Don't forget that too far in the adjustment will cause just as many problems as not enough adjustment so only make small adjustments ie: 1 rotation of the rod, so that you don't go too far before it's too late

[rad100]

also i think i should check its bled properly.

tips on bleeding it?

do you bleed from the cyl on the box or the cyl where the fluid is?

[blind_elk]

do you bleed from the cyl on the box or the cyl where the fluid is?

Yes.

Bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then bleed the slave cylinder.

[SargeRX8]

also i think i should check its bled properly.

tips on bleeding it?

do you bleed from the cyl on the box or the cyl where the fluid is?

If you are just letting the fluid drip out of the nipple, you're doing it wrong.

I don't give two shits what anyone says but you SHOULD ALWAYS put a clear piece of tubing over the nipple and place it in a jar ABOVE the lowest point(or on the ground I cant remember haha).

I spent about a day trying to bleed my clutch after I changed it. Couldn't do it. Had to press the clutch all the way down and it still wouldn't feel right. Called lube mobile, they didn't take money coz he couldn't fix it and said my fork was broken. My old man neighour came past, asked what I was doing and I told him. He said I was doing it all wrong and without the pipe you will not see how much air is coming out and you also raise the chance of air going back into the system. 10 minutes later my pedal was perfect. That little screw won't really do shit about your bite point. Its more to adjust freeplay. If you have ALOT of travel that does nothing right until the last dead point of the pedal, clearly you have another issue in the system... Ive got about an inch before I can feel my clutch pulling and then the whole way to the floor is just.... normal I guess.

[rad100]

when i bleed i put a bottle with fluid in it, then a tube from the nipple to the bottle which is on the floor, then do the normal bleeding process!

the pedal adjustment did SFA..

[Slow4door]

Sounds like leaking master, I had a problem like this, the fluid would leak into the wrong side of the master and stuffing pedal height, I changed master and all good! Bout $145 for a new master and slave

[rad100]

issue is it was PERFECT just before the conversion.

[The Dan]

Incorrect pushrod length maybe?

Or, if you have done the conversion and kept the same master cylinder but let it go dry, you need to bleed that master cylinder properly first, before ANY fluid will go through the rest of the lines.