HICAS LOCKING anyone have this done?

[Hiroshima Screamer]

Anyone done this to thier car if so how much did it cost , if in sydney who done it for you and are there any down falls with it ?

Thanks in Advance

[Greg]

I have hicas locked on my car. check out UAS www.nismo.com.au. they sell the tomei hicas lock kit or a new brace which does away with the hicas gear altogether. try a search for more info.

[Hiroshima Screamer]

did you lock it yourself ?

[Greg]

yeah did it myself. i got the tomei kit. its pretty easy to do, just back the car onto ramps and that will give u all the room u need.

[Sydneykid]

No HICAS on any of our Skylines, our ace team fabricator makes up the rear rack replacement. There is a picture on a previous thread on HICAS, do a search, it is well worth reading.

[Scooby]

No HICAS on any of our Skylines, our ace team fabricator makes up the rear rack replacement.  There is a picture on a previous thread on HICAS, do a search, it is well worth reading.

Hi Sydneykid;

I'll follow up that thread for sure. Cutting to the chase though;

Is that no HICAS on any Skylines street or track ie you'd advocate removing HICAS full stop?

Like Hiroshima Screamer I'd like to know please if there are any negative effects of removal (from memory I think you said once that the pump lines make good fuel lines so I guess that implies that you strip everything because it becomes superflous weight).

Can I take it that the wheel alignment specs you posted recently (for Enrico I think) are those you suggest for non HICAS cars?

Thanks for any advice you might be able to provide.

Cheers

[Targa Tom]

I think Skid meant all his skylines have the HICAS removed.

Another kit option is available. It consists of a piggy back for the HICAS computer and two lock rings to make rear rack solid. The down side is no extra fuel lines and still quit a bit of additional weight.

Upside is if you want to put it back... too easy.

Hope it helps

[VIPERGTSR01]

i have never driven a R33 skyline that doesnt have hicas, what difference would i notice if i locked it??

[Hiroshima Screamer]

Greg thanks for the info

Gary will do thanks mate

[Al]

yeah did it myself. i got the tomei kit. its pretty easy to do, just back the car onto ramps and that will give u all the room u need.

Greg,

I too have the TOMIE HICAS lock kit, but it wasn't as easy as that to install.

- Basically we had to put the car on the hoist.

- Remove the rubber covers on the Hicas.

- Unscrew one of the controll arms from the HICAS and attach one of the TOMIE shims in position (leave controll arm unscrewed).

- Get the car in HICAS diagnostic mode (From the moment you turn the ignition you have 10sec to: turn the steering wheel 20deg. left and right, 5 times; then press the brake 5 times.)

A REAL PRICK, especially when you are running a aftermarket ECU and the car takes that extra second to start up.

- Once in diagnostic mode the HICAS light on the dash flashes.

- Rev the engine to 2k rpm and turn the steering wheel 180deg in the direction of unscrewed controll arm. This will push out the attached controll arm.

- Attach the second shim, in it's designated position, on the second controll arm.

- Turn the steering wheel back to the neutral position. This will cause the attached controll arm to be pulled into the HICAS, locking the shim into place.

- Reattach the other unscrewed controll arm, also locking the shim in position as you screw it into the HICAS.

- Place the rubber boots back in their original position.

- Turn off car, disconnect plug at the rear of the HICAS mechanism and lower hoist.

- Disconnect battery.

- Install little black box as instructed.

- Reconnect Battery.

- Installation complete

(Sounds harder than it is, just getting into diagnostic mode is a little tricky)

[GTR32]

Greg,

I too have the TOMIE HICAS lock kit, but it wasn't as easy as that to install.  

- Basically we had to put the car on the hoist.

- Remove the rubber covers on the Hicas.

- Unscrew one of the controll arms from the HICAS and attach one of the TOMIE shims in position (leave controll arm unscrewed).

- Get the car in HICAS diagnostic mode (From the moment you turn the ignition you have 10sec to: turn the steering wheel 20deg. left and right, 5 times; then press the brake 5 times.)  

A REAL PRICK, especially when you are running a aftermarket ECU and the car takes that extra second to start up.

- Once in diagnostic mode the HICAS light on the dash flashes.

- Rev the engine to 2k rpm and turn the steering wheel 180deg in the direction of unscrewed controll arm.  This will push out the attached controll arm.

- Attach the second shim, in it's designated position, on the second controll arm.

- Turn the steering wheel back to the neutral position.  This will cause the attached controll arm to be pulled into the HICAS, locking the shim into place.

- Reattach the other unscrewed controll arm, also locking the shim in position as you screw it into the HICAS.

- Place the rubber boots back in their original position.  

- Turn off car, disconnect plug at the rear of the HICAS mechanism and lower hoist.

- Disconnect battery.

- Install little black box as instructed.

- Reconnect Battery.

- Installation complete  

(Sounds harder than it is, just getting into diagnostic mode is a little tricky)

Al;

thanks for the detailed post, this is great info.

Regards

[Steve]

....There is a picture on a previous thread on HICAS, do a search, it is well worth reading.

SK, I did a search, but couldnt find it:( perhaps the thread is too old?

any tips for replacing hicas with a lock bar on an R33, I got a lock bar today (thanks ender), and want to fit it ASAP

cheers

steve

[Scooby]

SK, I did a search, but couldnt find it:(  perhaps the thread is too old?

any tips for replacing hicas with a lock bar on an R33, I got a lock bar today (thanks ender), and want to fit it ASAP

cheers

steve

Steve;

Try using advanced search and look for HICAS and Sydney Kid in the subject and posts sections. Comes up with a small number of threads and the one you need is not called HICAS.

Mark

[Steve]

thanks scooby, I tried and failed to locate much on actually locking the R33 with a removal bar.

[GTRgeoff]

Guys I fabricated my own replacement bar from mild steel and installed it, then went to the nearest place for an alignment.

The result for me was noticeably improved control at and beyond the limit of tyre adhesion, however I now have to install sub frame lock rings as the rubber bush deformation is highlighted to a greater extent. I can feel the rear move away from the corner before it responds.

The downside is the Hicas light is on but I will remove the bulb when i get around to it.

I'd be happy to supply anyone who wants one for a reasonable price, say $100 including delivery and I'll make a donation to SAU of $10.

[sidewaymambo]

Hi, Geoff

Just a quick question, for the kit you made for R33 (assume..), how do you block the hose? the hydrolic hose?

thanks

[GTRgeoff]

Sorry, yes it's for the 33 GTS25t.

On those the HICAS is electric motor actuated, so no hydraulics like the 32. Not sure on GTR33 tho.

[sidewaymambo]

oops..my bad..gepff, any pics? thanks

[GTRgeoff]

No pics but the bar is just a holllow bar with 2 tabs for attachment, one elongated for ease of alignment and threaded ends for the tie rods.

I'll put together instructions as well as there is an easy way to install and a hard way.

[Steve]

well, I bit the bullet and had a go at fitting my HICAS lock bar, only to find the threads were tapped for the OTHER end of the tie rods so had to put it (the HICAS) back on, and now I got to try and find someone who can tap the lock bar out to the correct thread..... pretty funny really.

But it is very straight forward and only requires a 30mm spanner ( or a shifter ) and a 19 mm socket.