Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys. just got my skyline back today. its a rb25-30 motor. standard head, standard rods and new cast mahle pistons.

he said he did one pull only on it after tuning. it made 450rwhp on 17.5psi and blew heaps of smoke out the back (think he said that) and was coming out the breathers on the engine.

he said the pistons would be fine for it (i already had the motor done and all that). after i got it home my engine bay is covered in oil from the breathers. (didnt have catch can on yet, just open breather pipes

if it turns out to be from detonation can i make him pay for new motor?

Edited by joe blo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372437-new-engine-blown-up-at-tuners/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 218
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Is it actually broken (eg rattles and clunks) or is it fine except for oil coming out of the breathers?

no rattle and clunk noises im pretty sure. runs abit rough on idle and its different to start then before. hard to start but does go

has the 2 1.5mm oil restrictors put in and spool oil drain back kit for rear of head

what are you thinking? hope it may just be broken ring

Edited by joe blo

just a receipt from when i paid. about 4 weeks ago i got the car back. car wouldnt rev over 4500 in neutral and boost cut would hit at about 4000rpm if you could rev it that far and had boost cut from ecu at 20 psi. i had to ge the car back and take the wastegate off myself and fix the thread for the hose then put it on and go back to get the tune finished. in that time i put a 50mm gate on instead now but. today was the finish tune day

if it turns out to be from detonation can i make him pay for new motor?

What is this..... america???

You'r playing with modified engines... it happens. If you think your tuner did somthing wrong, don't take the next one to them..

Or was it the engine builder?

Or the injector manufactuer

Or the spark plug factory

oooor maybee it was the sneaky fuel supplier

hang on.. I have it-

Mr spanky with a candle stick holder in the sitting room.

This is some sort of Friday afternoon joke right?

Any tuner can only do his best with what he's given. If the setup (hardware inside engine) was crap before it got there, it wont magically get fixed on the dyno.

I was going to say that if its still running fine and not making any noises then it may be a lack of oil control thats got you so concerned

ah forgot that part. i put the crank in myself and couldnt get the rods and pistons in so got them put in at machining shop. then picked it up and assembled the rest myself

How was the motor run in?

Did the machine shop actually measure all the tolerances and so on, or simply assemble and return (which assumes you measured it all up).

cool. hopefully thats the case.

the problem will be shown when its pulled apart yes? it wont be mystery failure form me putting it together?

If it's pulled apart by a professional, then yes.

By the sound of it, and no offence, if you DIY you aren't going to find out.

How was the motor run in?

Did the machine shop actually measure all the tolerances and so on, or simply assemble and return (which assumes you measured it all up).

motor was run in on dyno by tuner guy.

the machine shop bored the block and supplied the pistons. and they measured the bearings and provided the ones i needed

the standard rb25 i pulled out had 6 broken pistons and didnt make ANY bad noises. drove it for like 1.5 years as a smoke machine and it made 250rwhp smoking HEAPS

if its from poor assembly i totally accept it. it was a learning thing. if its from me i dont think il bother learning anymore lol.

the big thing for me was going to be if it even started and worked properly in the first place. lol

after the first startup and first tuning went well i was convinced i had done a good job done properly

Edited by joe blo

Tell me which tuner in their right mind would pay for someones engine if it broke on the dyno? Almost anyone can slap a motor together and have it last for a couple of runs/weeks. You gotta know more about engine building than just bolting it together with the right torque settings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's hope that's not a copy pump either. There were so many copies of them back in the day.
    • Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
×
×
  • Create New...