Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

comp test it then if its no good pull engine and remove the head, if its assembly error i reckon you will see grab marks in the bores (from butted rings etc)...

Thats what I was thinking also.

  • Replies 218
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ah forgot that part. i put the crank in myself and couldnt get the rods and pistons in so got them put in at machining shop. then picked it up and assembled the rest myself

Should really leave this stuff to people who have done it 100 times before, sounds like rings aren't sealing. Have you done a comp test?

Should really leave this stuff to people who have done it 100 times before, sounds like rings aren't sealing. Have you done a comp test?

tbh im putting money on ring lands.

comp test now in

rear 6. 90 - then retested after all others and it was 90 again. maybe 92

5. 60 - retested 2nd last 60 again

4. 165 -

3. 92

2. 145

1. 160 - also retested and got 165 (maybe read guage wrong first time around?)

i did 1,2, 6,5,4,3 then 5 then 6 then 1 again or something like that to check battery wasnt going flat towards the end giving bad results

so any ideas now friends? i paid him to run it in on the dyno for me. if its not run in properly shud he fix it ( lets atart another round of lols for tuner replacing/fixing motor)

I don't think he is responsible personally, you said he didn't run any timing and it was quite rich, really doesn't sound like tuner error tbh. Only way to know is to pay a pro to strip the motor down and document the failure, which imo you should do so you know what went wrong and don't do it a second time.

If someone is to blame you need to be really sensitive about it, as if you accuse people (even if they were in the wrong) you can very quickly alienate yourself and they won't want to help you, especially if you can't easily prove it. I think getting a professional to strip it down is the best course of action from here on.

Think of it all as a learning experience, thankfully you haven't spent too much money so far.

Edited by Rolls

I don't think he is responsible personally, you said he didn't run any timing and it was quite rich, really doesn't sound like tuner error tbh. Only way to know is to pay a pro to strip the motor down and document the failure, which imo you should do so you know what went wrong and don't do it a second time.

If someone is to blame you need to be really sensitive about it, as if you accuse people (even if they were in the wrong) you can very quickly alienate yourself and they won't want to help you, especially if you can't easily prove it. I think getting a professional to strip it down is the best course of action from here on.

Think of it all as a learning experience, thankfully you haven't spent too much money so far.

oh yep. probably lost about $3500 in labour from getting engine put in and bit of other stuff from tuner guy and tune and crap. bottom end cost me $1300 all up

oh well. if the shop i was originally going to go with can do this new motor and install it for around the price he said the other day itl be not too bad in the end. which will make this first mechanic bill look REAL BAD

This is why I tell people to buy a complete short block with warranty from someone reputable, that way theres no blame to be laid, one company did all the work and warrant it. By the time you stuff around doing it 1,2,3 times until its done properly you've spent more than the cost of a full forged short block.

Still, it is the best way to learn (although expensive!)

Did the tuner hear any funny noises when at high rpm, such as valves very slightly touching the pistons possibly cracking the valve guides or blowing the stem seals. Could be the cause of the blowby too.

RRR

hey Joe, there is a mob called Bryant's engineering located on Mica St Rocklea i can vouch there Professional's there is also a guy out at Inala/Ipswich way is who is a gun with Nissan engines cant remember his name but my friend had work done by him and has seen his work many times good engine builder and he actually worked for Nissan for many years.... Tuning there is 1 guy that one person who comes to mind and that's Pitts down the gold coast... and there not going to run you down for trying to learn and have a go... don't worry mate keep learning don't let e-mechanics and e-tuners turn you off your game! good luck mate!

http://www.pits.net.au/

http://www.bryantengineering.com.au/

ill pm you the details of the mechanic when i find out later this week!

Did the tuner hear any funny noises when at high rpm, such as valves very slightly touching the pistons possibly cracking the valve guides or blowing the stem seals. Could be the cause of the blowby too.

RRR

in 15 years ive never come across that scenario tbh....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...