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Status - you may be right, you have alot more experience with turbo motors then me, im an old school carby toyota person, less problems, thats why i was leaning towards rings not bedding in.

Get it stripped down already. Everyone wants to know what went wrong.

Edited by lilcrash
  On 01/08/2011 at 12:35 AM, tridentt150v said:

one peice oil control rings are fragile as!!! I actually prefer the three piece scrapers, I think they do a better job as well.

i meant the bottom compression ring (think its called that) not the oil control 3 piece one

  On 31/07/2011 at 11:47 PM, STATUS said:

my experience is telling me its det related. not run in related.

So, could OP get an endoscope camera to take a photo of the piston crowns, and if there's pitting then he has a very strong case that the tune damaged the motor? Or is there more to it than that?

Any value in checking big end bearings (or??) for confirmation, or is piston pitting unequivocal?

before you pull it down do a leak down test, or at least do a 'wet' compression test. with engine warm, do a comp test again on the 3 suspect cylinders. then dump in a capfull of oil down the plug hole and test again. if the compression comes up you can be fairly sure it's rings as suspected. if it doesn't change then chances are it's a head problem (sticky valves, bad valve seats, bent valves, etc etc).

you can narrow down the cause a fair bit more with some basic tests before ripping the engine out. especially if you're paying to have it removed this should be the last step as it'll cost you a fair bit more $$$.

Hi Y'all

Sorry for the Hijack, but what about this scenario:

1) Workshop does Engine swap (old stock engine, proven healthy, provided by workshop - They got from elsewhere and tested it)

2) All loom, all electrical work done by workshop

3) ECU selected, provided, installed, and tuned by workshop

4) Resulting package has big det problems (still at workshop)

5) Workshop changes ECU, det problem gone, but engine needs rebuild as a result (loss of compression bigtime in 1 cylinder)

Anyone at fault in this scenario?

  On 06/08/2011 at 11:53 AM, Silvia GTR said:

^^^doubt it

If the ecu was faulty causing a timing issue, then the workshop does have a legto stand on, OP said the ecu was simply changed and the det went away, not retuned and det went away.

I actaully have an Autronic that is faulty which did exactly that.

And that may well be why workshops are finding it more and more difficult to get regular customers. I gave up on workshops along time ago. The fact is they just don't care. There are now just a handfull of genuinely good workshops out there we can trust. In fact, Trent from Status is the only guy out there willing to share info from his experience. This proves a love for cars and just a little dedication and I've never been to his workshop and never will.

No No, let me rephrase that, "if you have bucket loads to spend at a workshop then they really do care."

I am in business and understand the meaning of profit, but can just one bloody so called mechanic own up to a genuine mistake ? For God's sake, at least once a week we get these emails about how someone put their car in to have it tuned then they get the phone call, "hello ?, Mr. Sucker ? we think there was something wrong with your engine before we started tuning it because now it is smoking really badly."

In my case it was a Greddy E-Manage Ultimate, which caused strange ignition issues, basically it was advancing timing by about +50 degrees at 6000 rpm onward for reasons unknown.

Changed to a different Emanage Ultimate, which had the same ignition issue.

Changed to a Haltech unit, which does not have this problem, but by then damage had been done. It could have been a setup/wiring problem moreso than the ECU itself, but that was also still handled by the shop.

FWIW, a rebuild is on the cards at a (massively) discounted cost of labor, so they havent exactly been negligent or hard to deal with or difficult in my particular scenario, or refusing to accept any blame etc.

Eh would you actually trust them to rebuild a motor for you? Unless they regularly build motors it will just be another headache, much better off to get a replacement second hand motor imo, also make them pay for it. It isn't your fault they had faulty equipment.

  On 29/07/2011 at 12:49 PM, joe blo said:

the rings were VERY brittle when i was putting them on the pistons. i broke one coz i put it on upside down. it was a bottom one and i tried to open it up to go over the top one that was already installed and it broke so easily. maybe they dont like 450rwhp. its weird to me that it would happen on the very first power run. like to me that maybe suggests 1 or more rings might have broken. but i dont know how brittle standard nissan ones or any other ones are to compare to. i did think to myself that i thought they might not like big power coz i snapped the one i broke a few times after i broke it initially to get an idea of the metal integrity

thanks to the good dudes so far. to the homos. yous stink

Just had a quick flick through the thread, so sorry if this has been brought up already. Is it just me or do the previous comments stand out to anyone else? Sounds like you might have been a bit rough with the rings. I'm not sure what technique you used, but you can't really "open them up" and stretch them over the piston if that's what you were trying? You need to sort of roll them on with as little stress as possible. Also, did you make sure they were facing the correct direction/orientation (if applicable to those rings - not upside down) and offset the ring gaps to one another. The other thing that really gets me is the amount of engines that i have seen, which have been rebuilt and not had the bores properly cleaned down after honing. Important, but simple steps people overlook. Sorry to hear about the misfortune, and hope you get it sorted soon mate. Look forward to seeing the results of teardown.

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