Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys use probably get this alot but i need help on installing a oil relocator and oil cooler on my gtr 33 v-spec, if you guys could plzzz help would be awsome, pretty detailed to plz as I want to get it rite :) and if you guys have any good ideas where to mout the oil cooler, help would be awsome..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372517-oil-coolerrelocator/
Share on other sites

hey champ just realised yours is a gtr, hope this helps..

1st pic - drivers side - oil cooler sitting beside the lights. the lines run between the radiator and the lights..

IMG_4632.jpg?t=1312164019

2nd pic - you can see where its be relocated to - bolted just beside the fusebox/washer bottle (not sure if the gtr has this in this same place. i assume it does)

IMG_6650.jpg?t=1312164021

3rd pic - where the lines run back into where the original oil filter was located.

IMG_1012.jpg?t=1312164018

let me know if you want / need more pics..

Hell yeah thanks heaps mate really appreciate it!!! I get my car back wednesday (getting a new clutch) so I'll try and put it on I'll let you no how i go or if i need help!! So the lines just attach straight to where the old oil filter is? Thanks again mate will help a shit load!

no worries champ thumbsup.gif...

one tip when you've done it (this is common sense but no harm in mentioning it) - is constantly keep checking for any leaks for a few days/weeks - i had no problems but its wise just to keep an eye on the oil levels/leaks. (put a piece of white paper on the ground under the new relocation point and also another piece under where the new lines will meet the block) - obviously if the paper has oil drops on it, then there is a leak)

edit: also depending on what Pal has done with his, do not over tighten the oil filter like i did last time.. due to its close proximity to the radiator pipe / fuse box / washer bottle - when you go to do an oil change there is very little room and its quite hard to get leverage without taking the washer bottle out (i broke 3 of those oil filter removal tools, and yes i had to do the screwdriver into the side trick which i thoroughly DO NOT recommend)

Edited by defari

no worries champ thumbsup.gif...

one tip when you've done it (this is common sense but no harm in mentioning it) - is constantly keep checking for any leaks for a few days/weeks - i had no problems but its wise just to keep an eye on the oil levels/leaks. (put a piece of white paper on the ground under the new relocation point and also another piece under where the new lines will meet the block) - obviously if the paper has oil drops on it, then there is a leak)

edit: also depending on what Pal has done with his, do not over tighten the oil filter like i did last time.. due to its close proximity to the radiator pipe / fuse box / washer bottle - when you go to do an oil change there is very little room and its quite hard to get leverage without taking the washer bottle out (i broke 3 of those oil filter removal tools, and yes i had to do the screwdriver into the side trick which i thoroughly DO NOT recommend)

Ok I'll take that all I'n consideration that's for sure hahaha yeah I'll wait to see where pal has mounted his, but u uve def helped a shit load!!! Thanks again for pics ect rely needed it haha, I'll def do that paper trick thats a good idea, im not so worried now that I'll have pics to look at, cheers mate 

no worries mate - all the best with it.. and thats ok about the pics... If you have time - take step by step pictures of how you do yours... post it up here and return the favour to SAU :) you never know, there could be others out there going through thread after thread on how to do exactly what your doing..

edit: lol sorry for all the edits, i just remembered a few things - when your mounting it to the chassis make sure you give a little lick of paint to stop the new hole from rusting... and also make sure with the oil lines that when they bolt into the (grex plate in my case) that its perfectly sealed (otherwise leaks will occur) And also you'll tend to use a little more oil when you change it as it has to fill up the lines etc (like i said with keeping an eye on the oil level, its very marginal but just in case you start fretting that you put in the recommended amount and its still not up to the H level on the dip stick)

And also, check your oil level when the car is cold i.e leave it over night.. (iirc rb25det takes about 3.8-4L) mine took just over 4L and sits exactly on the H on the dipstick.. search for yours though, the rb26 may use more than that..

Edited by defari

no worries mate - all the best with it.. and thats ok about the pics... If you have time - take step by step pictures of how you do yours... post it up here and return the favour to SAU :) you never know, there could be others out there going through thread after thread on how to do exactly what your doing..

edit: lol sorry for all the edits, i just remembered a few things - when your mounting it to the chassis make sure you give a little lick of paint to stop the new hole from rusting... and also make sure with the oil lines that when they bolt into the (grex plate in my case) that its perfectly sealed (otherwise leaks will occur) And also you'll tend to use a little more oil when you change it as it has to fill up the lines etc (like i said with keeping an eye on the oil level, its very marginal but just in case you start fretting that you put in the recommended amount and its still not up to the H level on the dip stick)

And also, check your oil level when the car is cold i.e leave it over night.. (iirc rb25det takes about 3.8-4L) mine took just over 4L and sits exactly on the H on the dipstick.. search for yours though, the rb26 may use more than that..

No it's fine more info the better!!! Thanks heaps can't wait to install it now!!! Use have helped a shit load

check the "goods on oils" thread.. its over a 100 pages long but spend a bit of time reading through, improves your knowledge about how oils work.. benefits/disadvantages of types of oil i.e semi synthetic/ fully synthetic etc etc - you'll find your answer in there somewhere. I would go off your dipstick though. start with 4L - turn car on for a few minutes.... let it sit for a bit - check dipstick - keep topping up in small increments until you reach the H level.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t taken them out of the cases yet    inside the box is this packaging which is pretty much like a massive blister pack 
    • Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars  New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake  Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques  Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising  But now,  because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing  All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪  
    • I would not be surprised if you are the only person on earth that has the interest/desire to do that lol.  The Haltech base map is a really good starting point, the car will fire easily and drive very well, even on mild boost levels. To me, following your advice sounds like some sort of ancient Chinese water torcher lol (this is not an insult Josh, never change <3)
    • Those car show concepts from the 2000's and 2010's like the Floria and IDx were brilliant and should've gone ahead, at least one of them. But neither Honda nor Nissan are thinking about affordable performance any more, which is truly sad.  Even if Toyota's liquid hydrogen ICE development reaches the point where it's commercially viable and the infrastructure to support it, Honda/Nissan would have to wait until Toyota allow fee access to their patents to offer it with any smaller performance models they released to take advantage of it.  
    • A sporty manual RWD coupe with a IL4 Honda engine would only be a good thing I assume we won't see anything released for a few years though, unless informal talks and designs have been going on for a few years,  and due to the current, and future, emmisions and safety requirements, I assume anything "sporty" they would do would be at least some hybrid thingie And hopefully anything they are thinking of has nice lines, without lots of plastic and fake bits hanging off it like that horrendous FK8 that looked like it was designed by a 13 year old The other issue of course in the current market is cost, currently the type R is around $70k, a twin is around $50k Meh, I'm old and grumpy and would rather buy a older model car and waste my coin on that than buying anything currently available new  
×
×
  • Create New...