Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

wooden stick

Is that to beat you over the head?

I have also had the starter go, the copper winding overheated and blew apart at the commutator. No amount of bashing is going to fix that, im sorry Aaron. :nyaanyaa:

anyone know what turbo is on our cars? the exact model? so i can frikin find a flange for it???

i need an unmolested flange ( a flat flange with only the bolt holes) and i full on cannot be f**ked hand making one! but it looks like im going to have to if you guys cant help!

i made a bellmouth one tonight using the flange of the stock dump pipe. but would rather get the split dumpie on there sooner rather than later

Edited by bLaQ.bOi

I get them laser cut, I could get it without the inside done but why bother when there is a cut-out in the turbo outlet anyway. Just make a bell-mouth, it will flow much better... I have been waiting to see your work. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know how this is even possible. I removed the strut to do some work (it came out fine, and keeping in mind that I didn't put things back in the same order, but did this on purpose because I was supposed to remove the strut originally instead I tried to remove other shit first which made things a head ache) but now the problem is that it won't go back in. The alignment between where the bolt hole for the strut is and the j arm where the strut slides onto is way off, about a 10cm difference or more. In order to make it fit I'd somehow need to push it up. I tried to compress it with a spring compressor and install it but the compressor was getting in the way and there was no working room. On the photo you can see the difference between the shock and the thread that it's supposed to go on. The only things I removed in total were - the top bolts for the j arm but I didn't remove the actual j arm - the 3 bolts that hold the plate for the brake lines - the sway bar link (this bolted on back fine) - the strut/shock absorber
    • LOL that sounds pretty conclusive! Yeah if it doesn't work on a tight nut, it doesn't work.
    • Been a while since I've heard anyone mention Kumho tyres. It's like they've fallen off the radar in terms of street/track tyres. I still want to get below 1m50s on the RS-4 tyres at SMSP, just because lol. Even doing a 1m52s lap, going into T1 was sketchy af.
    • I've run most of the semis which are available and sadly you can pretty much rank them by price.  Fast and spendy = Z221, A050, DZ03G Ok and mid range price = R888, V70A, A052 I don't really rate the AR-1 because it's not cheap enough for the performance level offered. Yes, they're much cheaper than A050 but V70A can be had just as cheap and is a much faster and more predictable tyre.
    • There's no current law that stipulates that you cannot eat dessert with a soup spoon, although, it is socially unacceptable of course, shame on you But, there are emissions laws, which is sort of on topic to the OP's questions Things like emissions are, if anything, going to get stricter in the future for road registered cars I believe, 'Merica has yearly emisions testing in some states, the UK has it's yearly MOT testing as well which includes emissions Building, and purchasing modified vehicles may become alot more problematic if you want to keep them registered, how, if, and when each state handles this is anyone's guess  More food for thought really
×
×
  • Create New...