Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is a forum members 07 WRX booked in for a basic detail and correction. The car arrived and was clear that the previous owner had shares in drive thru car washes evident by straight scratches over the bonnet and roof and horizontal scratches on the tail lights!

The idea of this detail wasn’t to perfect it but to improve it to a reasonable standard. As you will see from pictures it is no where near perfect but A LOT better than previously as the job specified.

Products used:

Bowdens Body Gel- http://www.bowdensown.com.au/premium-car-care

Iron-X Soap and Nerta in foam lance- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=CP172&cat=22

Iron-x on wheels- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=CP15&cat=22

Menzerna Polishes- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=PO250KITOEM&cat=22

Lake Country Pads

Zaino Leather cleaner and conditioner- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=Zkitl&cat=67

303 Aerospace protectant- http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=PO250KITOEM&cat=22

Bowdens Naked Glass- http://www.bowdensown.com.au/naked-glass

Bowdens Paint Cleanser- http://www.bowdensown.com.au/auto-body-cleanser

Bowdens Tyre Shine- http://www.bowdensown.com.au/tyre-sheen

A Few prior to starting work.

IMG_4486Large.jpg

IMG_4487Large.jpg

IMG_4488Large.jpg

IMG_4492Large.jpg

Cleaning out some of the soot in the tips, you have to be carefull with this as water can damage muffler packing.

IMG_4493Large.jpg

Cleaning around the badges and in the petrol cap.

IMG_4495Large.jpg

IMG_4496Large.jpg

Bah it’s a ghost!

IMG_4504Large.jpg

Interior Before :O EEEK!

IMG_4505Large.jpg

IMG_4507Large.jpg

IMG_4508Large.jpg

All taped up ready to go.

IMG_4511Large.jpg

Some befores, afters and 50/50s

IMG_4512Large.jpg

IMG_4517Large.jpg

Before and After

IMG_4516Large.jpg

IMG_4519Large.jpg

IMG_4522Large.jpg

IMG_4524Large.jpg

IMG_4528Large.jpg

IMG_4533Large.jpg

IMG_4538Large.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372705-2007-wrx-wagon-detail/
Share on other sites

Japan vs Germany….Germany 1 – Japan 0

IMG_4541Large.jpg

WRX ghost gone

IMG_4542Large.jpg

USA vs Japan……sorry but Japan lost again.

IMG_4547Large.jpg

EEEEK after only one going over with leather cleaner!

IMG_4548Large.jpg

Already beading A LOT better and that is with no sealant or wax.

IMG_4549Large.jpg

IMG_4557Large.jpg

Swissvax Shield Curing

IMG_4560Large.jpg

IMG_4563Large.jpg

IMG_4567Large.jpg

Some after unfortunately it was dark at this stage so true glamour shots weren’t possible, but I tried by adjusting the shutter speed.

IMG_4570Large.jpg

IMG_4577Large.jpg

IMG_4578Large.jpg

IMG_4579Large.jpg

Hope you enjoy

Regards,

Mitch

Looks good im intrested to know a little more how you went about removing the ghosts :P

:cheers:

Removed the badge, used a product called Autosmart Tardis to remove the rest of the sticky residue then gave it a polish to get the "hologram" off of it.

If you like give me a call sometime swing past and we can remove any badges you want and fix up the holograms, wont cost much at all.

Regards,

Mitch

is that rust around your fuel cap?

Assuming your a playboy reader and didnt actually read the paragraph at the start, if you did you would relise its a clients car not mine. But yes that is oxidization around the fuel cap.

REgards,

Mitch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are keeping the current calipers you need to keep the current disc as the spacing of the caliper determines the disc diameter. Have you trial fitted the GTS brakes fit on a GTSt hub or is this forward planning? There could be differences in caliper mount spacing, backing plate and even hub shape that could cause an issue.
    • Hi there I have a r33 gts with 4 stud small brakes, I'm going to convert to 5 stud but keep the small brakes, what size rotor would I need?
    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
×
×
  • Create New...