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Wtb: R31 Manual Conversion


ianga
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    • as above find out what you want to do with it but extremely general Id get a more modern car with tech in it - add suspension, brakes and tyres - drive it if needs cooling add that - drive it  maintain and have fun
    • You'll need a 25 head. It's no bueno doing it with the 20 head. The bore diameter is....different. Very different. Hasn't been done in the wold since the larger bore twin cam heads became an option (ie, not since the early 90s!)
    • I’ve gone down the Rb30 rabbit hole the past few days and it sounds pretty sweet, only thing that really turns me off is the $2500 price tag for a bare block people are asking around here. That being said I’ve got a snowmobile I could sell to get the majority of the bottom end done lol
    • Compression test is good. Leak down is same across the board but could be lower. It's a loose engine, I specifically asked my builder to build it on the loose side as I was planning on running 35+psi. I'm also growing more convinced it's blowby. My engine builder wanted me to do the good old oil in cylinder then compression test to see if it goes up so I'll go ahead and do a cold, hot and hot with oil compression test to see.  I also went ahead and filled my catch can with stainless steel wool to see if it accumulates anything now. I'll report back in 200-300km's. 
    • I see now that it is liquid. Highly recommended. I have 25Neo in mine. It is nice to have some torque, any torque at all. Something that the RB20 is just completely bereft of. Mine will** pull away from 800rpm in 5th. Same rolling start is best done in 2nd with a 20! **Will, and does regularly. Might even be able to do it from 600 rpm, but that's not really all that feasible in traffic where it would take a bit too long, and is the only place where I roll around that gently. RB30 even better! (Perhaps just not under a 32 bonnet).
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