Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right...

All done on a ENR34 GT 4 door Manual 4WD

We took out the 25 neo engine 4WD, and put in a 25det neo RWD engine but kept the 4WD box in it ( removed prop and half shafts ) The DET came out of a automatic, is there any wires we need to hook up?

Well the engine startes every time, we got codes 44 and 46, something about the AAC controller and ABS

#44 was rectified by putting another AAC in and ECU still faults it

#46 Got no idea

When the emgine is running the ABS and check engine light is on, all we have done is changed the loom from the ecu to the engine, havent touched the ABS and now after the conversion the ABS is not working.

Any help would be much appreciated, Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/372905-rb25-de-neo-to-25det-neo-problem/
Share on other sites

Sorry I can't provide much constructive feedback on your problems, but are you saying you've basically done a RWD transplant? why not a 25DET from a Stagea???

Did you replace the NA ECU with a turbo ECU?

Yup...

We've done everything from the ecu right thru the engine.

The engine came with full harnes including all the parts and ecu e.t.c.

The 4WD box is still in the car but converted to RWD

Do you know if the codes we have are for the right thing?

Cheers

a longshot, but it might be spitting the error codes for the fact of your AWD system sitting there doing nothing... Have you ripped out all the ATTESSA electronics?

if you're up for the extra work, pull & sell that rwd engine and get yourself a stagea 25DET. Swap the sump/front diff from the stagea 25DET with your old sump from the GTS4 NA 25DET, drop it in, and you've got yourself an AWD weapon!

We figured out what it was...

The loom that came with the engine had TCS

Which was spitting f***ed up codes from the ABS and the ECU

Removed the engine harness and replaced it with the DE NEO loom ( with a few more wires off the DET loom )

And now it runs mint as

Thanks for your help

  • 2 weeks later...

Right...

All done on a ENR34 GT 4 door Manual 4WD

We took out the 25 neo engine 4WD, and put in a 25det neo RWD engine but kept the 4WD box in it ( removed prop and half shafts ) The DET came out of a automatic, is there any wires we need to hook up?

Well the engine startes every time, we got codes 44 and 46, something about the AAC controller and ABS

#44 was rectified by putting another AAC in and ECU still faults it

#46 Got no idea

When the emgine is running the ABS and check engine light is on, all we have done is changed the loom from the ecu to the engine, havent touched the ABS and now after the conversion the ABS is not working.

Any help would be much appreciated, Cheers

http://www.troublecodes.net/Nissan/ Hi go here and learn all about codes and how to cancel them ect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
    • Did the noise appear after your sand trap adventure? Could be something got dislodged and is playing rub rub. Even a rock wedged somewhere.
    • Is there a shroud around the tailshaft spline into the back of the box? They can rub and make a horrible noise if they are not on straight/damaged. The heat might have caused it to grow too much in one direction and rub.
    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
×
×
  • Create New...