Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Basicly i'm looking at ways to boost my R34 GT-T, it was previously boosted with a manual bleed valve buuut since a very smart TMU officer managed to find it rather easy i had to get it taken off and EPA etc etc...

Im wondering, what is my next best option? Can you raise boost through a nistune chip? (i have a nistune installed) is there anyway to raise boost legally? or even go HIGH-FLOW but then dont i need a controller either way?

Thankyou for any help, im at wits end with this whole thing and i may sell in the end its just costing me too much money :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373065-r34-gt-t-boot-control-query/
Share on other sites

Not really, you still need the solenoid in the engine bay and they are generally bigger than a bleed valve.

You could just modify the actuator if you wanted. That also would work fine and then no valves at all etc.

Haha, Trent was the one who installed/tried to hide it.. we even painted it black..... officer still found it.

Is it easier to hide a EBC, like if i hide it in the Dash? what about the wiring in the engine bay?

Jeez that sucks, i taped mine in black electrical tape and tried to hide it somewhere last weekend, but i guess that won't work :/

Did you get done for anything else?

Why don't you just use the factory solenoid with a smaller pill and get your current boost controller to drive the solenoid. I would just change the wiring at the ecu.

And yes nistune should be able to control the waste gate solenoid. Havnt tested it but I used to tune the factory s14/15 ecus and just use the factory duty vs load vs rpm map.

Its a Turbosmart T manual controller btw.

WTF you run the boost hose via the interior of the car?????

If they are switched on its pretty much impossible to hide, they just have to trace the hose from the actuator. I tried fastening it to the underside of a pipe so you couldnt see it. Worked fine but I think the cop you had would have found it.

As said above get a stronger actuator.

And yes nistune should be able to control the waste gate solenoid. Havnt tested it but I used to tune the factory s14/15 ecus and just use the factory duty vs load vs rpm map.

Got any more info mate? I was looking at the base Neo maps the other night and there is an editable Boost Duty map.. I don't have the stock solenoid setup anymore but my mate does so was going to see what altering those duty values does, any advice from your previous efforts would be helpful, PM if needed :)

Got any more info mate? I was looking at the base Neo maps the other night and there is an editable Boost Duty map.. I don't have the stock solenoid setup anymore but my mate does so was going to see what altering those duty values does, any advice from your previous efforts would be helpful, PM if needed :)

Does exactly what you think it should do - increase the numbers increases the boost duty. Map should be should be an 8bit number ie 7FHex=50% duty and FF=100% duty so scaling should be (Decimal converted Hex value/255)*100. The s14 axes where rpm and load(load being the y value of your spark table).

Because you only "T" into the signal from boost source to turbo you may need place a restrictor pill in between the boost source and "T" piece to give you more control. Try without the pill first and if you cant get enough boost try a 1mm restricor pill.

PS - this is how a factory Subaru from MY00 WRX to current MY11 WRX have performed their boost control.

Does exactly what you think it should do - increase the numbers increases the boost duty. Map should be should be an 8bit number ie 7FHex=50% duty and FF=100% duty so scaling should be (Decimal converted Hex value/255)*100. The s14 axes where rpm and load(load being the y value of your spark table).

Because you only "T" into the signal from boost source to turbo you may need place a restrictor pill in between the boost source and "T" piece to give you more control. Try without the pill first and if you cant get enough boost try a 1mm restricor pill.

PS - this is how a factory Subaru from MY00 WRX to current MY11 WRX have performed their boost control.

Awesome! Cheers for that :)

The duty seems to be somewhat variable through the midrange so will probably start with increasing the duty in the top end, see how it goes, then look at shifting the transition more to the left (Neo was the same with the axii being rpm vs load).

First of all get an RB20 actuator - simple, cheap and stock looking. If that's not enough you could get a JayCar boost controller. It uses the stock boost solenoid (it would take a very switched on cop to notice the difference) and the only connections are to the ecu so you can put it in the glove box.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/61207-jaycar-boost-and-fuel-control/

rb20 actuator is good, but not the same as a boost controller...being a spring diaphragm, boost comes on too gradually...for me anyway, no boost "hit". If you really want to hide it, how about a dummy setup. leave stock boost solenoid in place, block inside the line with a vut bolt/plug, and tee lines off underneath that run to your boost controller. If someone really wants to find it they wil, but that would be a way to look stock

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seemed to be good when Jeff owned it but they did a shit job on my car, probably worth a think before spending 10's of thousands of dollars where they might be cutting corners
    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
×
×
  • Create New...