Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gt-T Boot Control Query

Adriantc

By Adriantc,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Adriantc Enthusiast

Adriantc

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Basicly i'm looking at ways to boost my R34 GT-T, it was previously boosted with a manual bleed valve buuut since a very smart TMU officer managed to find it rather easy i had to get it taken off and EPA etc etc...

Im wondering, what is my next best option? Can you raise boost through a nistune chip? (i have a nistune installed) is there anyway to raise boost legally? or even go HIGH-FLOW but then dont i need a controller either way?

Thankyou for any help, im at wits end with this whole thing and i may sell in the end its just costing me too much money :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373065-r34-gt-t-boot-control-query/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Not really, you still need the solenoid in the engine bay and they are generally bigger than a bleed valve.

You could just modify the actuator if you wanted. That also would work fine and then no valves at all etc.

blah_blah Grand Master

blah_blah

Posted
Posted

Haha, Trent was the one who installed/tried to hide it.. we even painted it black..... officer still found it.

Is it easier to hide a EBC, like if i hide it in the Dash? what about the wiring in the engine bay?

Jeez that sucks, i taped mine in black electrical tape and tried to hide it somewhere last weekend, but i guess that won't work :/

Did you get done for anything else?

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Why don't you just use the factory solenoid with a smaller pill and get your current boost controller to drive the solenoid. I would just change the wiring at the ecu.

And yes nistune should be able to control the waste gate solenoid. Havnt tested it but I used to tune the factory s14/15 ecus and just use the factory duty vs load vs rpm map.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Its a Turbosmart T manual controller btw.

WTF you run the boost hose via the interior of the car?????

If they are switched on its pretty much impossible to hide, they just have to trace the hose from the actuator. I tried fastening it to the underside of a pipe so you couldnt see it. Worked fine but I think the cop you had would have found it.

As said above get a stronger actuator.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

And yes nistune should be able to control the waste gate solenoid. Havnt tested it but I used to tune the factory s14/15 ecus and just use the factory duty vs load vs rpm map.

Got any more info mate? I was looking at the base Neo maps the other night and there is an editable Boost Duty map.. I don't have the stock solenoid setup anymore but my mate does so was going to see what altering those duty values does, any advice from your previous efforts would be helpful, PM if needed :)

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Got any more info mate? I was looking at the base Neo maps the other night and there is an editable Boost Duty map.. I don't have the stock solenoid setup anymore but my mate does so was going to see what altering those duty values does, any advice from your previous efforts would be helpful, PM if needed :)

Does exactly what you think it should do - increase the numbers increases the boost duty. Map should be should be an 8bit number ie 7FHex=50% duty and FF=100% duty so scaling should be (Decimal converted Hex value/255)*100. The s14 axes where rpm and load(load being the y value of your spark table).

Because you only "T" into the signal from boost source to turbo you may need place a restrictor pill in between the boost source and "T" piece to give you more control. Try without the pill first and if you cant get enough boost try a 1mm restricor pill.

PS - this is how a factory Subaru from MY00 WRX to current MY11 WRX have performed their boost control.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Does exactly what you think it should do - increase the numbers increases the boost duty. Map should be should be an 8bit number ie 7FHex=50% duty and FF=100% duty so scaling should be (Decimal converted Hex value/255)*100. The s14 axes where rpm and load(load being the y value of your spark table).

Because you only "T" into the signal from boost source to turbo you may need place a restrictor pill in between the boost source and "T" piece to give you more control. Try without the pill first and if you cant get enough boost try a 1mm restricor pill.

PS - this is how a factory Subaru from MY00 WRX to current MY11 WRX have performed their boost control.

Awesome! Cheers for that :)

The duty seems to be somewhat variable through the midrange so will probably start with increasing the duty in the top end, see how it goes, then look at shifting the transition more to the left (Neo was the same with the axii being rpm vs load).

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

First of all get an RB20 actuator - simple, cheap and stock looking. If that's not enough you could get a JayCar boost controller. It uses the stock boost solenoid (it would take a very switched on cop to notice the difference) and the only connections are to the ecu so you can put it in the glove box.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/61207-jaycar-boost-and-fuel-control/

hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

Posted
Posted

rb20 actuator is good, but not the same as a boost controller...being a spring diaphragm, boost comes on too gradually...for me anyway, no boost "hit". If you really want to hide it, how about a dummy setup. leave stock boost solenoid in place, block inside the line with a vut bolt/plug, and tee lines off underneath that run to your boost controller. If someone really wants to find it they wil, but that would be a way to look stock

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By EndZee · Posted

      But if I smoke test 5th cylinder it’s all ok, no leaks  when I try with 2nd it’s leaking exhaust and intake, it doesn’t come from oil dip stick.    so maybe when car was running poorly, rich or sth. Spark plugs were black and covered in charcoal or sth lookalike. could potential contamination make valves not seal properly? is there also a possibility that rb’s don’t have equal performing cooling passages  meaning back of the engine will be hotter than front. Can this cause improper wear if engine was running under load for short time? Or carbon build up could just burnt from 4-6 and is still on 1-3?   I out of my head like really. Timing is as manual crank-exhaust 47, exhaust-intake 38 at this point I thinking about give it a try and make another 500-1000km and check if anything change, if not I will most likely disassemble engine head /or whole engine and send it back to rebuild. It’s killing me     
    • wrxhoon
      WTB R33 GTST Catch Can 2L or Bigger

      By wrxhoon · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I don't have a GTR these days mate. Gone soft..
    • dbm7
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah. air pressure leakdown test is where I would be headed next here, using one's ears to determine whether it's the valves or bores/rings leaking...
    • GTSBoy
      Weird compression after rebuild

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.  
    • GTSBoy
      Attesa pump mount options / ideas? R32 gtr style.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.
×
×
  • Create New...