Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so I have my M35, and I have a wing coming from Japan. Once that's painted and a few minor repairs on the body are done, it's time to have some fun. I have around $5k to justify spending on top of the car, but could be convinced to spend more, just don't want to go mental.

Goals for this car is to retain driveability, comfort, reliability and a degree of economy while handling well and going alright. We only have one car in the family right now, so really the Stagea is meant to satisfy my wants of having something with a bit of go, and my wife's wants for getting herself from place to place.

The car is standard aside from a Blitz intercooler and K&N filter. It has a Nismo exhaust. Are they decent at all? Worth having a bigger dump into a quality cat and then just run the Nismo exhaust or does it really strangle the system?

Now that many of you have done what you've done, how would you go about doing it again? I'm keen to get coilovers in this thing first, but aside from that have no real plans for the future. In all honesty, I don't really need massive power, but a highflow seems like the way to go rather than have the car give out on me at some stage, would you agree?

Anyway, keen to hear peoples opinions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 151
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok so I have my M35, and I have a wing coming from Japan. Once that's painted and a few minor repairs on the body are done, it's time to have some fun. I have around $5k to justify spending on top of the car, but could be convinced to spend more, just don't want to go mental.

Goals for this car is to retain driveability, comfort, reliability and a degree of economy while handling well and going alright. We only have one car in the family right now, so really the Stagea is meant to satisfy my wants of having something with a bit of go, and my wife's wants for getting herself from place to place.

The car is standard aside from a Blitz intercooler and K&N filter. It has a Nismo exhaust. Are they decent at all? Worth having a bigger dump into a quality cat and then just run the Nismo exhaust or does it really strangle the system?

Now that many of you have done what you've done, how would you go about doing it again? I'm keen to get coilovers in this thing first, but aside from that have no real plans for the future. In all honesty, I don't really need massive power, but a highflow seems like the way to go rather than have the car give out on me at some stage, would you agree?

Anyway, keen to hear peoples opinions.

keep some cash aside for a turbo rebuild. like many of ours it may be the first thing that needs rebuilding(read: highflowing)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951214
Share on other sites

when you high flow the turbo from my understanding u also need to upgrade injecters, fuel pump and fit a E-manage or the like........ so that in itself will cost upwards of $2000 in just parts.

apart from that make sure u dont have the stock dump pipe and the nismo exhaust should be fine, FMIC and A/F are good.

then just spend money on coilovers ($1500ish) maybe some strut braces etc

$5000 doesnt go along way really..................

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951216
Share on other sites

when you high flow the turbo from my understanding u also need to upgrade injecters, fuel pump and fit a E-manage or the like........ so that in itself will cost upwards of $2000 in just parts.

apart from that make sure u dont have the stock dump pipe and the nismo exhaust should be fine, FMIC and A/F are good.

then just spend money on coilovers ($1500ish) maybe some strut braces etc

$5000 doesnt go along way really..................

who said? lol you dont need to, but if you wanted to pull some power out of it, its advisable. with a budget of 5k I dont think the OP was consdering tuning?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951217
Share on other sites

when you high flow the turbo from my understanding u also need to upgrade injecters, fuel pump and fit a E-manage or the like........ so that in itself will cost upwards of $2000 in just parts.

Not necessarily true; Injectors/Fuel pump/Emanage is only necessary when you start chasing numbers. Ive had a high flowed turbo for over a year without needing to do the above.

You can choose NOT to do the turbo but it'd be silly to expect it to last forever; you can either wait for it to let go or pre-empt it with an upgrade. There are a few rebuild/highflow options - if you're not chasing numbers then you should be able to get away with a rebuild in the region of $1k I believe & this will be pretty close to stock spec with the advantage of a steel wheel and a touch more power/response.

Bang for buck, Plenumn spacer would be the first & easiest thing to do.

After that, ensure the ehaust dump doesnt have the cat in it.

Sway bars will definitely help with going around corners.

Thats my 2c at least :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951225
Share on other sites

keep the boost down and youll be fine with a hiflow on stock everything else.

5k isnt massive, but its enough to replace all those ageing parts that really need doing!

budget at least $1000 for labour for the turbo change. depending on who does it for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951226
Share on other sites

when you high flow the turbo from my understanding u also need to upgrade injecters, fuel pump and fit a E-manage or the like........ so that in itself will cost upwards of $2000 in just parts.

apart from that make sure u dont have the stock dump pipe and the nismo exhaust should be fine, FMIC and A/F are good.

Yeah see this is the thing. It's hard to justify high flowing the turbo, but at the same time it's probably the most unreliable part in the car. But if I go and high flow the thing, it kind of seems like a waste not doing it right.

$5000 doesnt go along way really..................

Sure doesn't!

who said? lol you dont need to, but if you wanted to pull some power out of it, its advisable. with a budget of 5k I dont think the OP was consdering tuning?

I'd be keen on getting it properly tuned, but I know I don't have the cash for it. Not unless there's a cheap solution that just magically appears overnight but from everything I've read it's not going to happen.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951227
Share on other sites

I'd be keen on getting it properly tuned, but I know I don't have the cash for it. Not unless there's a cheap solution that just magically appears overnight but from everything I've read it's not going to happen.

well you can get an emanage for around 500-600 brand new. and a tune depending on the tuner from 400-600 including install of the unit.

might have to drive down to melbourne for that, as theirs still only one proven tuner unless i stand corrected

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951233
Share on other sites

No sorry, I mean what would be better:

a) dump + cat with Nismo exhaust back and Emanage and tune, or

b) dump + cat + catback, no tune.

as iain said but is your "front pipe" still standard? or is it and upgraded part aswell.

any modification will obviously perform at its best with a tune. you'll mac out the suction pipe at about 190kw IIRC

there is still a part of the exhaust between the dump and the cat back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951279
Share on other sites

If you've got the Nismo exhaust, dump and front pipe for sure. Get rid of the cat in the dump as a priority! There are a few options at the moment, I've got the AM Performance pipes on mine and I'm local to you if you want to have a look?

What needs doing on the car? Mine needs brake pads and rotors, suspension, etc. You can easily spend $2k+ doing just this. Sway bars are a must, mine are brilliant. I've done strut brace instead of plenum spacer, but they're pretty highly regarded.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951291
Share on other sites

$5,000 aye.

Providing you do most of the mechanical work yourself.

Turbo back exhaust(including dump + no cat), Standard rebuild of the the turbo with steel wheels, E-Manage ultimate + tune, a Turbosmart boost controller and a set of BC's.

Spent!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951437
Share on other sites

Jasevr4, is this the silver RS that was/is on Carsales?

If so, that Nismo exhaust is the same one I have and you shouldn't change it.

It has effectively the same piping as the Fujitsubo Legalis with a completely different rear muffler.

1. Get a dump pipe/front pipe combo to bolt up to your turbo and the Nismo exhaust.

2. Drill out the oil restrictor to 3mm which may prolong the life of your turbo.

3. Get a set of BC's.

You should still have a couple of grand left so I'd go with a boost controller and tune I guess (eManage Ultimate is the cheapest option).

Doing so, you'll make more power, have less stress on that flimsy turbo, have far better handling and probably better fuel economy.

If you want more power after that, you'll need a suction pipe, injectors and pump... and probably a new turbo lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951466
Share on other sites

Jasevr4, is this the silver RS that was/is on Carsales?

If so, that Nismo exhaust is the same one I have and you shouldn't change it.

It has effectively the same piping as the Fujitsubo Legalis with a completely different rear muffler.

1. Get a dump pipe/front pipe combo to bolt up to your turbo and the Nismo exhaust.

2. Drill out the oil restrictor to 3mm which may prolong the life of your turbo.

3. Get a set of BC's.

You should still have a couple of grand left so I'd go with a boost controller and tune I guess (eManage Ultimate is the cheapest option).

Doing so, you'll make more power, have less stress on that flimsy turbo, have far better handling and probably better fuel economy.

If you want more power after that, you'll need a suction pipe, injectors and pump... and probably a new turbo lol.

thhhhiiiisss! i forgot to mention

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951468
Share on other sites

I agree with Cam, dump/front pipe, EMU and tune for 20psi on the stock turbo. As long as the oil restrictor doesnt get blocked it should last, mine did for over 4 months. Then save for the turbo rebuild...

(Aaron, I think 2.5mm would be better)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373090-m35-mod-path/#findComment-5951482
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...