Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What was it like to fit? Fitting instructions included?

bit of a PITA....I am sure after I do the next 2 things will be a lot easier..........destructions come with it.

Edited by Jetwreck

you don't even notice the shifts on light throttle

.........full throttle there is no clunking or harshness.....just super fast and precise!.....keeps the power rolling.

My gearbox would not change into 3rd at all unless you completely backed off and 2nd was flaring.....now it shifts without even thinking about it.

P.S. I have to admit at about half way I was a bit scared about the thought of drilling ect....didn't help that all the workshop guy's were laughing at me and saying they would not even attempt it.

Edited by Jetwreck

Do the changes on full heavy/full throttle too hard or chirp tyres on changes at all?

Sorry for all the Qs just chasing as much info and still trying to understand MV's decision on the kit.

no chirping and no destructive gear changes anywhere......I am putting out over 270AWKW's and I had no issue's.

I would agree.. the more I read the more frightened I became.. Solution.. stop reading. lol

Completely right. Only start reading when you've cracked it open & there's no returning. So, are you going to tackle this as a DIY?

I've started ringing around my local guys to see who sounds most confident & if they can do it for less than ~$250 - 300, this will be my first non DIY mod :O .

Well, I heard back from a shop that does a lot of Transgo work. His sugestion was for me to buy the kit online (derr, was going to anyway) because he can't buy it that cheap thru his supplier.

Then his price for installation was somewhere between $500 & $1000 (unsure as to the extent of the work) but that included filling it up with their Valvoline trans fluid. I DON'T THINK SO. :spank:

Looks like I keep asking or another DIY project is on the cards.

Well, I heard back from a shop that does a lot of Transgo work. His sugestion was for me to buy the kit online (derr, was going to anyway) because he can't buy it that cheap thru his supplier.

Then his price for installation was somewhere between $500 & $1000 (unsure as to the extent of the work) but that included filling it up with their Valvoline trans fluid. I DON'T THINK SO. :spank:

Looks like I keep asking or another DIY project is on the cards.

$500 for fitting including the fluid isn't that bad I wouldn't think? And I've had no issues with the Valvoline trans fluid, just make sure they're using the Maxlife version, as that is the Matic J compatible one.

Anyone got a link for the fitting instructions? There are videos on the web site but I can't find the exact fitting instructions. If it's not too bad I'll just get dad to do it.

I take it this is where the price difference comes in for Craig's changeover VB. Worth it if it's going to be a hassle!

Well, I heard back from a shop that does a lot of Transgo work. His sugestion was for me to buy the kit online (derr, was going to anyway) because he can't buy it that cheap thru his supplier.

Then his price for installation was somewhere between $500 & $1000 (unsure as to the extent of the work) but that included filling it up with their Valvoline trans fluid. I DON'T THINK SO. :spank:

Looks like I keep asking or another DIY project is on the cards.

$500 for installation and Oil is a good price imo......but no more than that!spank.gif.......it's about 4 hours work with the correct tools.....but 1 stuff up and your screwed!

try this when pricing......tell them it's a 350Z auto...that they will understand...it's the exact same shit.

http://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction-diy/313499-diy-transgo-valve-body-upgrade.html?ref=esp-link

have fun!!! :P

Edited by Jetwreck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, whenever I say "HP", I mean HP. As in, at the engine. Allowing for a 25% discount from engine to typical Ozzie braked roller dyno figures, then subtracting the usual (more optimistic) US inertia dyno offset..... you get into the 600 actual engine HP territory from your 484 wheel number. 484 / 0.75 = 645   (that's Aussie rw intertia HP, converting to approximate engine HP. 645 --> 600 is discount for inertia dyno. Could actually be worse than that. But that would still be up around 600. So near enough for purposes.
    • Still fast enough to have fun (kinda). Time for a modern turbo with a divided turbine housing and a proper twin scroll manifold. I think 400-450kW is a great place to be, provided it's all in before 4500 rpm.
    • i'm not at 600 though 😢 its 484hp (356kw) at the wheels.. 
    • Nice. 600ish HP is probably a nice place to be.
    • In the US the EPA has been going after shops that sold aftermarket ECU tuning software that allowed you to disable CELs for things like EGR, DPF, SCR, or TWC failure. They also went after shops for selling emissions delete equipment. Their logic is that all cars built for street use have this emissions equipment and you cannot do an after the fact conversion to an off-road vehicle not intended for street use. Cobb, Hondata, and similar companies have basically all revised their tuning software such that going forward you cannot suppress DTCs for emissions-critical systems, nor can you toggle systems on and off in the tune like EGR. You also cannot adjust OBD emissions monitoring logic. You can still tune these cars. But you have to do things the hard way, basically. For example Subaru FA20DITs used to delete the TGV system to get spare analog IO for a flex fuel sensor. EGR also has to be dramatically pared back because without the TGVs the stock EGR map causes bad misfires. Now instead they have to implement the flex fuel system as a CAN bus sensor instead. IMO, this is heavy-handed but the EPA in the US gave so much leeway for so long and the aftermarket relentlessly abused that leeway to the point that they could actually see the effects of all these emissions-deleted work trucks on their air quality monitoring for cities that haven't met Clean Air Act standards. It's one thing to have a few people deleting emissions on their weekend car that spends 9 months out of the year on jack stands. It's another thing entirely for entire fleets of tradies driving around 8 hours a day on deleted diesels that emit 1000x the emissions per mile of a compliant vehicle.
×
×
  • Create New...