Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What was it like to fit? Fitting instructions included?

bit of a PITA....I am sure after I do the next 2 things will be a lot easier..........destructions come with it.

Edited by Jetwreck

you don't even notice the shifts on light throttle

.........full throttle there is no clunking or harshness.....just super fast and precise!.....keeps the power rolling.

My gearbox would not change into 3rd at all unless you completely backed off and 2nd was flaring.....now it shifts without even thinking about it.

P.S. I have to admit at about half way I was a bit scared about the thought of drilling ect....didn't help that all the workshop guy's were laughing at me and saying they would not even attempt it.

Edited by Jetwreck

Do the changes on full heavy/full throttle too hard or chirp tyres on changes at all?

Sorry for all the Qs just chasing as much info and still trying to understand MV's decision on the kit.

no chirping and no destructive gear changes anywhere......I am putting out over 270AWKW's and I had no issue's.

I would agree.. the more I read the more frightened I became.. Solution.. stop reading. lol

Completely right. Only start reading when you've cracked it open & there's no returning. So, are you going to tackle this as a DIY?

I've started ringing around my local guys to see who sounds most confident & if they can do it for less than ~$250 - 300, this will be my first non DIY mod :O .

Well, I heard back from a shop that does a lot of Transgo work. His sugestion was for me to buy the kit online (derr, was going to anyway) because he can't buy it that cheap thru his supplier.

Then his price for installation was somewhere between $500 & $1000 (unsure as to the extent of the work) but that included filling it up with their Valvoline trans fluid. I DON'T THINK SO. :spank:

Looks like I keep asking or another DIY project is on the cards.

Well, I heard back from a shop that does a lot of Transgo work. His sugestion was for me to buy the kit online (derr, was going to anyway) because he can't buy it that cheap thru his supplier.

Then his price for installation was somewhere between $500 & $1000 (unsure as to the extent of the work) but that included filling it up with their Valvoline trans fluid. I DON'T THINK SO. :spank:

Looks like I keep asking or another DIY project is on the cards.

$500 for fitting including the fluid isn't that bad I wouldn't think? And I've had no issues with the Valvoline trans fluid, just make sure they're using the Maxlife version, as that is the Matic J compatible one.

Anyone got a link for the fitting instructions? There are videos on the web site but I can't find the exact fitting instructions. If it's not too bad I'll just get dad to do it.

I take it this is where the price difference comes in for Craig's changeover VB. Worth it if it's going to be a hassle!

Well, I heard back from a shop that does a lot of Transgo work. His sugestion was for me to buy the kit online (derr, was going to anyway) because he can't buy it that cheap thru his supplier.

Then his price for installation was somewhere between $500 & $1000 (unsure as to the extent of the work) but that included filling it up with their Valvoline trans fluid. I DON'T THINK SO. :spank:

Looks like I keep asking or another DIY project is on the cards.

$500 for installation and Oil is a good price imo......but no more than that!spank.gif.......it's about 4 hours work with the correct tools.....but 1 stuff up and your screwed!

try this when pricing......tell them it's a 350Z auto...that they will understand...it's the exact same shit.

http://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction-diy/313499-diy-transgo-valve-body-upgrade.html?ref=esp-link

have fun!!! :P

Edited by Jetwreck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit of data is always good, beats the Facebook experts with their opinions I have Bosch 1480cc injectors, often called 1650cc (only when run at 4bar). I run mine at 3bar base so I don't thrash the fuel system. Up top, making 437kW with boost dropping, injector duty is at 69% on E80 (might have had some residual 98RON in there)  
    • I have some downtime due to winter, and just wrapped up converting the car over to flex fuel. We don't get E85 at the pump over here in Canada, but I will be running Ignite E90 Race gas. I'll be mixing it with 99-100 RON pump gas and shoot for 50% ethanol content, up to possibly 85% content if there's any noticeable gains. Here's the question. Most I'll ever want to hit is ~600rwkW. I've currently running 1200cc injectors and want to keep them under 90% duty cycle. As per some online injector calculators, I should be good with 1200's well past 600rwkw on E85. As per other calculators, I'll need 1600-2000cc's. The variety is rather amusing.  With you Australians having E85 at the pump, what realistic duty cycles are you seeing in those kW ranges on E50 & E85 on your injectors? Thanks, 
    • No issues here with my PRP gears in an OEM pump housing. I did confirm all housing clearances were to spec prior though. Cheers. 
    • Thread is a bit old but figured id give my input anyway just incase. Have had lots of water problems in my R32 and was getting sick of wet tools in the boot and water filling up half my taillights. I ended up finding that whenever my car had been repainted they didn't reseal the taillights to the body of the car so water was just flowing straight into the boot, this is amplified by all the water around the bootlid being directed down to the taillights so would get pretty wet whenever I washed the car or it rained. You could probably use silicone to seal them to the body but I think from factory they use a roll of automotive grade butyl rubber. Hopefully this helps you if that ends up being how the water is getting in on your car!
    • Correct And whatever you do, don't use an oil pump gear, especially the one that starts with the same letter as Santa and the last letter ends with the same first letter as Lagoon. Get a proper oil pump, like a Nitto, Tomei, etc. and make sure you invest in a big fk off sump. Won't go into too much detail, but I am sure it caused my previous built motor to go bang.
×
×
  • Create New...