My 1980 C210 Skyline Fresh From Japan

[Sukh]

Hi guys, new to the scene. Just picked up a C210 Skyline from Japan, currently waiting for a boat to come to me in Vancouver Canada. Appreciate if anyone can point me in the direction of some useful info on this car like i say I'm very new to this stuff.

It has L20ET motor in it with about 140,000kms rest is what you see is what you get.

I'm in JNC forums under the same name, not too much info on c210 and L20ET's seem that there is more on here tho. How are these motors relialbility wise?

[Willis]

Looks awesome! Nice one

[hcg210]

Absolutely stunning mate.

Greetings from Australia, its good to see you picked up a Gem.

enjoy it ....

Regards

Mario

[Ghostrider]

Looks like a nice little pick up from the pics, well done!

The L20ET is very strong for it's design parameters, but remember the technology is 30+ years old. They can benefit enormously if allowed to breath better. If you can get yourself either an non intercooled FJ20ET turbo with the 0.63 rear housing (a direct replacement & no mods required) or an RB20DET turbo (more modern technology) & slightly larger injectors from an S130 280ZX Turbo (265cc) Z31 300ZX turbo (270cc) both hose tail connected & a direct replacement to your stockies and increase the boost marginally, (stay under a bar for some reliability) you will experience quite a bit of difference.

Factory spec on the L20ET is 104Kw at the flywheel & a loss of about 25% through the drivetrain is about normal, so 78Kw at the wheels is about you factory standard spec, yet with the few little mods I have suggested you could be looking at about 120Kw (about 160HP) at the wheels, which represents about a 50% improvement.

As you are in Canada, you should find the bits relatively easy to find, because the 280ZX Turbo that was very common in USA is the host of all the parts you need. The non intercooled FJ20ET Turbo was exactly the same as that fitted to the L28ET 280ZX Turbo and the injectors the same. Check ebay.com as you will find new and reco injectors often at great prices too.

Don't go overboard on injector sizing unless you're building a new & bigger engine such as L24, L26, or L28. Also remember your C210 is a front sump engine and all Zeds are rear sump engines so mods have to be done to change them to front. If you can find an L24E engine from 1984/85 Nissan Maxima from the US, that would be the perfect replacement as it is already front sump design & with an L26 or L28 crank & rods plus 1.0mm over bore you will have a great capacity to work with (2627cc) and then the sky is the limit and the big plus, to the untrained eye under the bonnet is going to look absolutely stock standard, yet you could have over 200Kw at the wheels.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Dennis from Ozland

[Sukh]

Wow Thanks Ghostrider. This was exactly the kind of info I was looking for. apparently the engine is running strong but the mods you recommended I'll do for sure. Not entirely sure what my future plans are with her. Going to see how far the current L20 takes me and then I'll make a decision either to build up or replace with a more modern RB motor instead, both haves its pluses and minuses and I'm not sure which side of the fence I stand on yet.

First thing I'm going to concentrate is the turbos and injectors as you recommended. I remember reading that the L20ET don't have a a blowoff value, instead its a manual release? with the bigger moderen turbos is it possible to install a BOV too, is it even worth it? Kinda jumped in the deep end with this. ITs going to be my first skyline, first classic and first forced induction vehicle. I have a LOT to learn.

Second I'm going to work on the interior. Its pretty shabby by the looks of it and can do with some nice gauges and modernizing a little.

I saw this guage set up and i like the look of it

mine as she is now

Love to get these LED tails too, are these custom?

Some brightened up images from my first post. I tried to edit my first post but I couldn't find the edit button. I should get some video up by tuesday.

[045HOW]

fffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu i didnt even know these could look like this!!!

ive only seen the bad looking C210s lol

this looks like a C10 mixed with a C110

congrats on the purchase and good luck!!

[Silent Shadow]

very jealous my friend. sweet ride!

this is how ive done my gauges. i screwed them into the top of the instrument surround panel and they hang there quite nicely. wires for the stepper gauges are all tucked behind the dash.

[Silent Shadow]

also i have gone the RB route. it's bloody easy!

[Dingus]

Looks fantastic, good find

[willL]

mint mate

if you don't mind me asking how much did it set you back at the auctions?

[Sukh]

also i have gone the RB route. it's bloody easy!

Really, I got quoted about $1500 CAD for the swap not including the cost of the motor. We don't need to engineer engine mounts out here all the gov cares about is emissions, dont know if thats a good or bad thing. but problem is low kms RB26DETT motors and trannys go for about 3 g's here!!

your gauge set up is nice I like the idea of this one direct replacement panel

Anything with the RB swap that was a head ache, any heads up advice you can give me?

Edited August 7, 2011 by Sukh

[Silent Shadow]

wow that panel looks the goods!

umm time saver tips i can give you so you dont have to figure it out yourself:

-on the engine cross-member on the datsun, the engine mount should be holes. you want to turn them into slots. starting from the hole and going up. this way the engine mounts attached to the engine will slide down the slots and rest on the holes.

-the engine will sit pretty high and there's a certain chance that bonnet wont close because of the plenum that goes over the top of the RB. you'll want a front facing plenum. or modify the RB mounts so it sits lower. but not too low or it will be sitting on the x-member.

-use an s13 gearbox x-member. you have to drill one hole (you'll see) and it will fit. the datsun one does fit but makes the box sit hard-up against one side of the tunnel. not cool.

-you'll need a custom tailshaft made.

-with a custom alloy radiator (50mm thick), you have enough room to fit up to a 800x600x80 intercooler inside the engine bay so you dont have to cut holes in your sexy ride. refer to my build thread for pics.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/251107-yay-got-my-pics-back/page__st__40

that's all i can think of right now but im a little sleepy. any questions about anything, dont hesitate to ask bro. we're all more than happy to help.

[stagefumer11]

I got 124rwkw out of my 500,000k L20et. Simple mods, FMIC, rb20det turbo, Exhasut, 270cc vg30et injectors, timing at 20btc, AFM adjustment, Overboost safety valve removed and BOV fitted, I ran 14psi daily, Sometimes 17-18psi it made a hell of a lot more power at 18psi.., dyno was at 14psi

Dont freak out running a rb20det turbo at higher boost levels on a L20e, the shaftspeed doesnt get as high.

[Ghostrider]

First thing I'm going to concentrate is the turbos and injectors as you recommended. I remember reading that the L20ET don't have a a blowoff value, instead its a manual release? with the bigger moderen turbos is it possible to install a BOV too, is it even worth it? Kinda jumped in the deep end with this. ITs going to be my first skyline, first classic and first forced induction vehicle. I have a LOT to learn.

This isn't entirely correct!

The attached pic has a unit outlined in red and it's a "pressure relief valve" expells the manifold pressure if it increases over factory setting (about 7psi) but if you plan to increse the boost, this unit has to go. It's a standard BSP thread and just about any plumbing supplier should have a plug to fit it, or source an adjustable valve from Japan shown in pic outlined in yellow.

For ongoing upgrades and boost over 10psi, follow stagefumer's advice with an FMIC, exhaust system, etc, etc

Stagefumer tells me there is a tuner in NZ that has extracted 150Kw at the wheels, which would make a fun piece of a play thing compared to the factory oem offerings.

You don't need an RB26DETT, but if you want to go with the RB conversion I would suggest an RB25DET and a neo version from the R34GTT if you can get one over there. Rated at exactly the same output as the RB26DETT (206Kw) and probably cheaper. The old version R33 RB25DET was rated at about 186Kw which when you consider your cars GVM it is still very impressive.

Cheers, D

[66yostagea]

With the RB a front facing plenum is the way to go to get the height down. With a good dump pipe the engine will breathe heaps better.

In the SAU Forum in the N/A section there is a DIY on fitting a Greddy style plenum fitted one on my RB25DET just to make it easier to change the plugs

[ydr030]

sweet ride dude, longchamps 4 the WIN!

[Sukh]

Thanks again for the engine mod info. My shopping list is slowly building up.

Got some more info and pics on the car.

Info chart the guy sent me

Year: 1980 / 04

Chassis: HGC211-220227

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline

Model Extension: 2000GT-ES Turbo

Color: Change / Silver Metallic

E/G: L20T

Mission: 5F Manual

Mileage: 150,0XX KM

Options: Power Wipers, Power Front Mirrors, Electric Heater, Power Steering, Power Windows, Etc.,

Alternate Components:

A/M Front Chin Spoiler

A/M or Original Rear Trunk Spoiler

A/M Window Visor Guards

A/M 15’” SSR Long Champ Wheels

A/M Electric Horns

A/M Panel Aif Filter

A/M Ultra Ignition Leads

A/M Exhaust System

A/M GAB Front Dampers / Springs

A/M KYB Rear Dampers / Springs

A/M RH / LH Recaro Seats

A/M Audio Player

A/M Audio Speakers

A/M Nismo Shift Handle

A/M Personal Steering Wheels

A/M Ultra Turbo Timer

A/M HKS Boost Gauge

Known Important Service History:

Recent engine oil service

Recent power steering line replaced

Recent ignition lean & plug service

Recent Toyo Proxes tire upgrade

Condition Report:

EXTERIOR:

Exterior showing complete paint some time ago. All door jams and trunk jams completed. Hard window trimcomplete, and polished up well. Noloose sections to mention.

Exterior Points:

• Front and rear bumpers have light pitting from age.
• Faint scuff mark on LH front wheel arch extension
• 3 point indent on RH door, bottom side.
• Light overspray patches entering engine bay onto firewall
• Rocker guards good and solid. I can tell there was light repair on LH/RH rear sections, but very minimal.
• Underbody is original, no repair work. Light rust stains here and there, but no trouble otherwise.
• Trunk room carpet is a bit uneven. Believe it missing the backing foam or thick insulator as originally equipped with
• RH side window seal, meeting rear ¼ window is missing part way down. It’s a fairly simple type of rubber seal, than can be remade. Currently a tape is sealing this section off.

Overall pleased with the paint, panels all good and straight.

All I will advise is that the underbody is protected with a good qualityunder spray. Cars living in Japandon’t need this sort of attention, but North American cars are a differentstory.

INTERIOR:

All panels are intact, some natural wear here and there.

I can tell the carpet is original. No bad odor, but it does have some stains from age.

The floor mats are early BNR32 GT-R type, quite rugged and line uppretty good.

Interior Points:

• Driver side lower panel is loose on one corner, allowing clear view of dash mounted speaker.
• Passenger side lower panel is again like opposite side, not so bad however
• Power windows are inoperative completely right now; believe the fuse is pulled to prevent them from going down. I would think it’s the switch causing, but best to inspect before replacing. I know from experience the contact points on the switches tend to get dirty inside.
• Passenger side dash trim “Skyline” is missing.

For being an 1980’s vehicle I believe the interior has been kept quitewell. The seats are Recaro, but do match up quite nice with therest. Seat padding is a dark blue,leaving a great tone against the rest of the interior.

Running Condition:

From cold start up the vehicle easily started. Battery and starter alone are in good health.

Engine is idling very good during warm up, once warmed up again runningextremely smooth. No suddenhiccups or back fires.

Working the clutch is quite easy, feels like OEM type, plenty of life init as well. Gearbox feels a littlenotchy, but for the age its otherwise working ok. Didn’t hear any clunks or grinds while pulling any forwardor reverse gear(s).

Power steering feels silky smooth, a bit to soft for my personalliking. Either a well warn insystem or this is just how easy it is to operate.

Acceleration is quite good for being a single turbo straight six. The turbo is definitely a low pressuretype, bringing max boost at around 0.50 kg/cm. You feel a nice squeeze and it really doest build upthereafter. The thought of turningup the boost may work to gain a bit of performance, but then again im unsurehow durable these small turbo’s are. Something to look into.

As the dampers are aftermarket, I would expect them to be alittle more aggressive than what I felt. Rears felt ok, they are KYB after all. But the fronts at GAB and seem alittle warn out. When hittinglight bumps I can feel the rebound more than it should be. Chances are another set of dampersshould be fitted. **Remember thisis coming from someone who drives a track car. You might actually like the feel of them**

[Sukh]

So it looks like I'll be replacing the Shocks for sure, cam across Monroe shocks other than KYB or GAB. any others out there, or out of these three any that you guys can recommend?

[myRB25DETT]

Simply amazing... First time ive admired a classic skyline car.. All the best mate..

[hcg210]

So it looks like I'll be replacing the Shocks for sure, cam across Monroe shocks other than KYB or GAB. any others out there, or out of these three any that you guys can recommend?

koni:s special "D"

keeping the car original..."""priceless"""

Cheers

Mario.