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I Dont Like Being Lied To

lilcrash

By lilcrash,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
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Posted (edited)

Thread title fail.

lol it was a topic title to draw attention and it worked :D

anyway, does anyone think that hard wiring the fuel pump will fix my 300rpm lumpy idle. and the miss on throttle application?? i was just going to do some basic patch wiring over the fuel pump relay into a second relay but i cant find one in the fuse/relay panel :/ am i going nuts??

Edited by lilcrash
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Big Fella Mentor

Big Fella

Posted
Posted

Except now you've lied to everyone else.

And I don't like being lied to. Especially about people lying.

Don't lie, you love being lied to, it's being lied on that you don't like!nyaanyaa.gif

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

yes theres alot of BS surrounding the fitment of walbro pumps. so many ppl say "they bolt straight in" on so many cars. they just forget to mention that the plugs need to be changed and you have to modify mounting brackets and hold the whole thing together with zip ties. after all the shit i want through with my commodore i'll never touch another walbro pump again. OEM branded pumps are a much better way to go.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

There's nothing wrong with "real" Walbro's, the fakes gave them a bad name I guess, but that's the way every brand is these days. My twins are quiet and flow massive amounts of e85 right up to 80psi with little effort. For the price they cant be beaten and low current flow makes them easy on your wiring but they definitely need full 14v straight from the battery. Just wire the old power feed up to a 30amp relay that switches the 14v if you haven't already.

I used a hose clamp to hold them in place.

For the M35 guys Walbro's drop straight in to the stock fuel housing once the tabs on the top are trimmed off.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

No, there is a fuel controller that gets a signal from the ecu.

The wire that went to the stock pump you use to energise a new relay that switches the 14v straight from the battery, (through a fuse of course). That way the car is still controlling the on and off of the pump just not dropping the voltage at idle which is your issue I think.

RubyRS4 Grand Master

RubyRS4

Posted
Posted

Could your fuelling issues be that the cradle didn't clip back correctly into the tank, and has now come loose?

I know I almost didn't clip mine back in properly when I fitted my Walbro pump (18 months ago and running just perfect still).

:thumbsup:

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted

I think the biggest problem with stagea fuel pump upgrading is everyone goes into the job expecting a cradle like the skylines and it's not, it's a holder/box on the bottom of the tank.

I know i did, and I was like WTF when I opened the tank and there was no lift out cradle. it also took me a little while to figure out how to get the top of the holder to get to the fuel pump, didn't help that my tank was about a 3rd full.

Also to anyone that said walbro are too much of a stuff around to fit you obviously haven't trying to fit one to a S2 stagea before. If I laid a stock pump next to a GSS-342 you would hardley notice a difference. Inlet/outlet sizes are the same, electrics are the same, physical size is the same.

Steven, if you have a nistuned ecu that already has the Z32 afm swap done on it, and you swap your afm to the Z32 and use that ecu it should start and run. It wont be perfect but enough to know that it works. Nistune does a good job at resizing the values on afm swaps. When I did mine it was a little bit out, it was rich, I had to drop the kconst a little bit to get it running stoich. Unless you have a wideband to check it I wouldn't drive it around.

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

HA!!

you guys think YOU dont like being lied to....!

How about this then; Surgeon - "I'll remove your kneecaps & you'll be fine."

4 years later; loss of job/house/marriage & throw in same-old chronic disabling pain for the fun of it.

f**king KUNT of a surgeon. Pity I had no other option though, as the pain from bone on bone for 15yrs in both knees was pretty intense, so much so I just had to agree to removing the patellas & 'see what happens'.

IN or OUT its the same deal. Just now Im disabled in my movement, etc.

lol, rant over.

Anyways, I bought a Walbro 'da-27' 305LPH fuel pump, installed externally (GTR intank pump feeds 5L surgetank, walbro then feeds 550cc injectors).

From what I can tell its a bosch 044 copy and isnt walbro at all. Made by Driven2Automotive but marketed as Walbro.

Ive been lied to!

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

There's nothing wrong with "real" Walbro's, the fakes gave them a bad name I guess, but that's the way every brand is these days. My twins are quiet and flow massive amounts of e85 right up to 80psi with little effort. For the price they cant be beaten and low current flow makes them easy on your wiring but they definitely need full 14v straight from the battery. Just wire the old power feed up to a 30amp relay that switches the 14v if you haven't already.

I used a hose clamp to hold them in place.

For the M35 guys Walbro's drop straight in to the stock fuel housing once the tabs on the top are trimmed off.

this is exactly my point. the pumps work great. but theres nothing "bolt in" about them. having to wire up a new relay and custom mounting makes it difficult for ppl without the tools or experience. my advise to anyone with little experience is do not attempt it.

DeanR33 Enthusiast

DeanR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here a how to with some pictures which may help:

http://www.skylineow...d.php?p=1492788

(As a matter of interest I think it was written by the guy who expressed an interest in bringing his (masa fronted) stagea to Aus)

Indeed it was me that wrote that guide.

Fitting was exactly as per the guide, my Stagea is a Series 2 RS4V and I did also do the earth mod and run another better supply via relay too. I think that any uprated pump would require better wiring, the standard wire gauge in the car isn't exactly generous.

Oh and I'm still waiting for the job. The recruitment is on hold at the moment, but rest assured if I get the chance to transfer I'll be coming to annoy some of you guys in person ;)

Edited by DeanR33
rb30dett Rising Star

rb30dett

Posted
Posted

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

Does she have a sister? :worship:

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years. Let's see things she has done while I was at work, built a diff from 3 broken ones, 3 turbo swaps, 2 engine removals and 1 gearbox swap. And she wants to go do an auto ellecy apprentice ship so she can do ecu installs and tunes.

I think you're very lucky to have such a wife! Apart from the practical advantages its great to have a partner who shares an interest in car engineering :) :) :)

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