Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On a side note it doesn't run very well anymore. It's stutters alot.

I'm doing the hard wire mod as I type this, hopefully it will sort it out.

Xrated - that's a bit harsh to say letting my wife do it was a mistake, she has smaller hands and she has learnt a helll of a lot over the years.

It's all good mate, just having a laugh.

The hard wire mod will feed a little more voltage to the pump for maximum flow potential. However you will loose the factory speed controll, thus you will be recirculating fuel constanlty... this heats the fuel up quicker.

Your stuttering wont be related to available fuel supply, unless your pump is seriously over or under pressurising the fuel system. Just put a fuel pressure gauge on and go for a burn.

It's more likely that the suction sock is blocked or not positioned correctly in the cradle, the electrical teminations on the pump are not correct or the nrv was replaced backwards etc... I would check all of these types of things before you go chopping apart your fuel pump loom.

By the sounds of things, I'd pay a pro to look at it... if it's leaning out and stuttering, your allready damaging your engine.

There can often be subtle things that will trip you up, this is where a professional will usually show they're worth- especially where important components are concerned.

Cheers

Justin

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
  • Create New...