Jump to content
SAU Community

Bad Result From My Dyno Read Out Please Help

tyler p

By tyler p,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

I was just about to say, TO4 means about 20 different turbos. Even diesel ones.

I cringe when people go in about to4 or even worse, some bullshit t3\t4 crap combo they have no idea about at all.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

I was just about to say, TO4 means about 20 different turbos. Even diesel ones.

I cringe when people go in about to4 or even worse, some bullshit t3\t4 crap combo they have no idea about at all.

Coz talk on yank forums make them look like gold.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Why? TO4 can mean any of a shitload of turbos?

yep, that is why I'm asking, cos I'm not so sure what it is.....a hiflow can be anything and we are allsaying that its being choked and I tend to agree, but I'm not so sure that the turbo is any good period, not just the hot side but the whole lot.

I'm not disagreeing with you, I agree, and that is why I'm asking. Just cos he says it is a T04 and its been hiflowed doesn't mean jack.

tyler p Apprentice

tyler p

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey guys sorry about the lack of knowledge of my turbo but here is my dyno sheet. we have fixed our problem its holding 18 pounds again we just need to get it re tuned. turns out the actuator diapraphm had a tear in it and was leacking boost. ill let you all know what happens with the next tune when i get back from this dam work trip....

i cant get hold of my specs on the turbo but i have the standard r33 rear housing that has been re machined and i believe its 6 mm bigger than standard size if that means anything to u all the wheel in side was changed but cant remember what size it actually is. its not just some random turbo as i have family that works at mtq and has actualy made the turbo for me sorry about the lack of knowledge tho. sorry to cause any arguments with this next post but yea cheers for all the help its much appreciatedpost-79355-0-75899900-1312949653_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • SteveL
      R32 GTR Bonnet Hinge Bolts

      By SteveL · Posted

      From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • GTSBoy
      ER34 RB25DE Auto - Would a flush ever fix an "A/T" light?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 RB20DE NEO coilpack?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Ozdavroz
      So i brought a boat...

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
    • Kapr
      R34 RB20DE NEO coilpack?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Which coilpacks can i use in my engine? I looked at the Splitfire but the closest "match" i found was SP-DIS-008 but even that they do not show RB20DE NEO so iam not 100% sure. Or maybe different one which will 100% work? I saw many on ebay but they are some cheap "strange" ones. What about Yellow Jackets? Many thanks 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...