Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah, I wouldn't bother with the standard r33 turbos because they like to fly apart beyond 12psi.

It's kind of a waste bolting them on to just run 12psi. A single Garrett item with an internal gate would be far cheaper, easier, and a lot less mess under the bonnet.

I'd you're set on twins, get decent twins properly matched for performance vs early spool time.

But, a z32 and two standard turbos at 12psi wouldn't max a z32.

Just advice mate - you need to rethink you're strategy because what you're doing isn't going to be worthwhile, especially on a rb2530

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953446
Share on other sites

Just advice mate - you need to rethink you're strategy because what you're doing isn't going to be worthwhile, especially on a rb2530

+1

The sheer cost and effort to get twin stock turbos onto a RB25 head is just not worth it for a start.

Let alone the failure risk and thus motor...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953510
Share on other sites

im a fan of twins but this is ridiculous.

do it properly or not at all.

you can get proper twins or a proper single with the right money.

or you can go cheap and get twin chinas or a single china.

but this is too cheap lol..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953519
Share on other sites

Well, they're supposed to be good for ~200rwkW each, which is a bit more than the Z32 meter will measure. It's just a question of whether you can drive one to produce 200rwkW with only 1.5 litres behind it.

If it were me doing bodgy cheap twins like this, I'd use some TDO4s off a WRX or something similar. They're a bit smaller than the RB25 turbos, will spool better, will run to higher boost if needed to make the flow&power.

Stilll a complete nightmare to do compared to the expected results though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953629
Share on other sites

I am aware of the risk involved with ceramic turbos but as they wouldn't be seeing a high boost level with 2 of them this wont be an issue. My current turbo has been seeing 14-16 psi at least twice a day if not 20 times a day for 6 months and it's fine. That argument aside, there are some good reasons that I am doing this turbo setup. The cost of doing this is bugger all. Another stock turbo with lines is $150. A head flange and 2 t3 flanges cost me $100 from ebay. I'm getting all the pipe for the manifold and exhaust from work for free. I currently have one hks split dump that I've been using for a while now. I need another split dump or I could use the stock ones. The exhaust and manifold fabrication will cost nothing more than my good company and some drinks at a mates house. The water and oil line setup is another negligible cost. Intake piping is what it is. Silicone bends aren't that cheap but we all know what they are worth. Tuning is up to me. I'm going to tune the turbo setup on the current rb25det in the car and then swap it afterwards to the bigger motor. So it all comes in at less than $500. It will be fine aye. It will be neat and wont blow up :whistling: Also as far as effort goes its not a lot in my book. As the cost is so low that means less wages spent. To get a "proper" setup I would be looking at a minimum of $3500. That's more work in the end. It might sound crazy and risky to some but to me the work involved is easy and the cost is small. It might be a bit laggy? I guess we'll see. It will end up on the dyno after I have done most of the tuning so we'll see then. That's a couple of months off tho, busy with work and home and engine building as most of us are. At the end of the day if it all turns to shit all I would have lost is a small amount of money and a weekend or 2. Have faith peoples. I'm not some chinese whispering 20 year old. :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953706
Share on other sites

It will be laggy and the turbos will only run 12psi.

Why not go a gt3076 or bigger? simple and proven and possibly cheaper.

A bigger single would be the easy way out as far as install goes. I guess I'm doing it cos its cheap and fairly easy and a bit unique. Plus it would give me something to do that I'm interested in. I'm curious to see how it would go. If it turns out crap then a 6boost manifold and a gt3582r will end up on the 2530.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953727
Share on other sites

Max will be 500hp, it's the max theoretical resolution of 1x Z32 AFM

Best post in whole thread! :thumbsup:

IIRC it was a pretty simple and direct question.

500hp seems to be about right. What sort of power are you chasing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953809
Share on other sites

Best post in whole thread! :thumbsup:

IIRC it was a pretty simple and direct question.

500hp seems to be about right. What sort of power are you chasing?

Whatever the engine/ turbo kit will do. I just pulled the head of the 30 and the bores are 86.05mm. I'm about to sus out the piston/bore tolerance and if its ok then its going to stay the way it is (stock). If it needs machining then forged pistons are going in. Even if it stays stock (or forged pistons) its getting a 3.4 stroker kit next year on the tenth of August (my birthday!). So the power level will vary depending on what work gets done to the engine for now. Either way it only has to last a year so I'll turn it up as much as reliably possible.

EDIT: I'm only running an intank walbro 341 for now so that may need replacing with something better as well.

Edited by Room42
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5953906
Share on other sites

I am aware of the risk involved with ceramic turbos but as they wouldn't be seeing a high boost level with 2 of them this wont be an issue. My current turbo has been seeing 14-16 psi at least twice a day if not 20 times a day for 6 months and it's fine. That argument aside, there are some good reasons that I am doing this turbo setup. The cost of doing this is bugger all. Another stock turbo with lines is $150. A head flange and 2 t3 flanges cost me $100 from ebay. I'm getting all the pipe for the manifold and exhaust from work for free. I currently have one hks split dump that I've been using for a while now. I need another split dump or I could use the stock ones. The exhaust and manifold fabrication will cost nothing more than my good company and some drinks at a mates house. The water and oil line setup is another negligible cost. Intake piping is what it is. Silicone bends aren't that cheap but we all know what they are worth. Tuning is up to me. I'm going to tune the turbo setup on the current rb25det in the car and then swap it afterwards to the bigger motor. So it all comes in at less than $500. It will be fine aye. It will be neat and wont blow up :whistling: Also as far as effort goes its not a lot in my book. As the cost is so low that means less wages spent. To get a "proper" setup I would be looking at a minimum of $3500. That's more work in the end. It might sound crazy and risky to some but to me the work involved is easy and the cost is small. It might be a bit laggy? I guess we'll see. It will end up on the dyno after I have done most of the tuning so we'll see then. That's a couple of months off tho, busy with work and home and engine building as most of us are. At the end of the day if it all turns to shit all I would have lost is a small amount of money and a weekend or 2. Have faith peoples. I'm not some chinese whispering 20 year old. :yes:

chances of getting it done for 500 are slim.. i predict at least 1k and ALOT of stuffing around..

Now considering you can get a 3076 for around 1 to 1.5k second hand that will bolt straight up to a 2.5 with minimal fuss, it will be much easier to work on and diagnose should any problems arise and it would probably kill your crazy setup ..sure it is something different and original but so is the gay mardigra and we dont go there

cool thread though..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373237-how-much-boost/#findComment-5954810
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their reliability is proven, performance can be predictable, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
×
×
  • Create New...