Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My boot seems to have somehow jammed itself shut and no longer works via the seat side lever. I've never had a boot key either so I'm locked out. The lever seems to be working fine, hopefully I dont get a puncture or I'm screwed and stranded.

Anyone had problems with the boot lock mechanisim? Any special 'Fonzy' bashes to open it :D?

I guess the other way is to rip out the back seat? Does it just come out with a good yank or are there clamps holding it? The audio guys should be guru's at removing the back seat...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/
Share on other sites

my 33 boot is also blanked out so you cannot open it with a key... all I need is someone to muck with that little lock out lever and I would be in the same dilemma. I like the idea of having an electric soleniod in there like the commodores - and being able to operate it with a remote hanging off your keys.

Sumo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-748057
Share on other sites

Two bolts securing the bottom section of seat (they're on the carpet, you'll see 'em), then two clips at the front edge of the bottom seat section secure to the body. (Lift up the front edge and you'll see two metal loops going down through the body. A BIG screwdriver as a lever is easiest to get them out as mine were hard as!)

Back section has two bolts at the bottom, then lifts up and forward to remove.

BUT: The only space through here on mine (S1 R33) would be through the removable plate leading to the battery bay. Approx. dimensions = 22" x 5"? (56cm x 14cm... I always mentally think in imperial for some reason:D)

The hole that has the switch in it is about 5cm x 2.5cm, so you should be able to flick it with a metre ruler or something similar fairly easily. Doubt you could reach through without a long stick of some sort though.

Good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-751279
Share on other sites

... and try to get hold of the 'owner's' key, not the valet one. Once you get the boot open you should be able to get a locksmith to make you up a new key. Actually, from memory, the valet key is also unable to lock/unlock the glovebox, so you might be able to get a key cut from that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-752276
Share on other sites

I guess the other way is to rip out the back seat? Does it just come out with a good yank or are there clamps holding it? The audio guys should be guru's at removing the back seat...

You still cant get through, theres a metal plate thing that goes the whole way across. Pulling the seats out is easy tho - two bolts on the vertical surface at your legs, then clips to pull the bum part of the seat off. The back rest has a bolt on eaither side and once these are out, it needs to be lifted upwards (its on rail type things) before if will come out.

Hope that helps.

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-752327
Share on other sites

I heard if you give your VIN number and key to a local Nissan dealer, they can make you the master key even for imports.... cost a bit more I suppose, but is an option if you've lost the master key and was only given the valet key when you got ur car imported.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37324-33-boot-is-jammed/#findComment-764716
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...