Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya all,

Seeing as most of Australia has now become rain drenched, driving on wet roads is almost a daily event. Ive noticed in recent months my R34 loves to aquaplane at the slightest (smallest) build up of water on the road.

Last night on the freeway at 110 or a lil less the car constantly tried going sideways again in the rain (mostly higher freeway speeds it always happens but it can happen at just 60ks too)..... finally its made me ask the question;

Does anyone have any advice on how to reduce aquaplaning in a car, mebbie specific to Skylines or is it an R34 thing? Or aquaplaning in general. I used to try to 're steer' (if that makes sense) when the car takes off in the front end, but that makes it worse i find, now i dont touch the steering wheel as the car aquaplanes and i find it grabs traction again and self corrects but its a bit freaky..... There has to be a better way to reduce the effects of aquaplaning.... surely ? How do racing cars do it? I recently saw a porsche that crashed on the news after it aquaplaned killing the two people inside. I know ive come close to all loss of control too. Any Advice is welcome. Thanks in advance.

Edited by nathanau
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373335-aquaplaning/
Share on other sites

Heya check tyres for what ? besides the obvious poor tread ( mine r in excellent condition)

What type of tyres you got?

Will help if you got a set of tyres that have good wet weather rating...

Hard and Soft tyres (as in rubber type) can make a difference too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373335-aquaplaning/#findComment-5954905
Share on other sites

run tyre pressures UP 10 + lbs more then than normal

That's going a bit overboard. 2-3 psi would be more than enough.

Make sure you have enough tread on the tyres will obviously help - aids in dispersing the water from under the tyre.

Can't recall ever having a problem with aquaplaning (R32), running both Bridgestone Potenza and various Falken tyres. The crap Maxxiss on my Falcon are another thing all together.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373335-aquaplaning/#findComment-5956123
Share on other sites

tyre compound plays as big a part as tread depth, and tread pattern plays a big part too, especially if you have directional tyres and have rotated them yourself and put them on the wrong side. size also plays a big part. if you have wide tyres then they will aquaplane more than skinnier tyres.

and +1 for altering tyre pressure.

having said all of that, i've had some pretty shitty, almost bald tyres on cars before and never had any issues with aquaplaning. had a few moments where it's been close in absolutely pissing down rain though. maybe it has something to do with driving style as well.

oh and you don't use tyre shine by any chance do you? if you do, do you put any on the tread of the tyre? cause that's a big no no.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373335-aquaplaning/#findComment-5956140
Share on other sites

Damn, everything I wanted to say was mentioned lol.

But I have to reinforce, if you're not in complete control of the car, slow it down. It's just not worth it if things go wrong. Bad tyres, poor tread, low pressures, all make a pretty big difference. But there's nothing more important than driving to the conditions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373335-aquaplaning/#findComment-5958286
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
    • 😂 thanks guys. The diagram i had did not have the breather on it at all. Much appreciated.  
    • Geez, engineers fees have definitely gone up. Mine back 2007 cost me all of $300. Mind you, I had to go back to him a few times to get him to write the correct things on the report after he'd inspected it. Things like wrong exhaust size, wrong wheel sizes, etc etc.
    • Can we see a scan of the original quote? The problem with engineers (and by this, I mean, all engineers across all engineering industries) is that there are "engineers" and there are "engineers" (you'll have to imagine the two different vocal emphases on those two versions of the same word. Engineering is a mindset - your farm kid who spent his life rebuilding the tractor will likely make a good engineer. The farm kid who spent his life taking photos of butterflies.. perhaps not. But on top of that mindset, the modern engineer has to learn how to write so that there is absolutely no way of being misunderstood. Proposals/budget estimates/quotations are one place where this is absolutely vital. You have to delineate your scope of supply with extremely hard boundaries, and anywhere where there is any possibility of not being able to have such a hard boundary, you need to write language that will cover you from scope creep, cost overruns, the inevitable interference of the client or their "engineer", etc etc. Now, if your clients are the BHPs and the Rio Tintos of the world, and similar, then you get good at this. If you are an automotive engineer, pitching work to the great unwashed masses, your skills in this area might not be well developed, because you're only dealing with knuckle draggers trying to get a big block legal in a Torana. And when I say "might not"....I'd suggest there's a better than even chance that any such skills might be completely absent. So, we might be able to look at your quote and see what the opportunities are for rebuttal.
×
×
  • Create New...