Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:wavey: Hey guys,

I am seriously looking at buying an R32 GTR in the next few months. Always loved the car from the first time I saw it but since i have never actually been in one or know of anyone thats got one, I need to ask you guys it there are things I should have looked at before I purchase it. I am importing it so I need to tell the broker what I want checked.

And I don't plan to use it as a drag, drif or race car , but a nice fast weekender. So would it be safer to get one that is totally unmodified, except for the exhaust and suspension. Or do you think it would be safe to ask for small mods like turbo timers and after market ECU's. Do you think that cars with these mods are more likely to have been thrasd, more than unmodified ones.

One last thing.

If looked after and not raced, will the GTR be a reliable car to have, or do you think I should go the GTS-t instead. Even though I love the look and performace of the GT-R.

Thanks guys, and gals :kick:

:sadam:

Be careful, there is alot to these vehicles and you can be stung in a big way if your buyer isn't on the money. Just as a comparison my GTSt was light, efficent, responsive, cheap compared to the GTR which is a harsh car for daily driven roads.

Don't be in too much of a hurry - drive both cars and see which one suits your needs.

GTR will cost LOTS more to run and maintain (parts, fuel and insurance) than a GTS-T.

Acceleration wise, there isn't actually a lot of difference between stock or lightly modified examples of each. This is due to the weight diference.

You quote "and I don't plan to use it as a drag, drift or race car" - if you buy a GTR I betcha you'll be looking for race tracks and drag strips within the fist month of owning it!

Anyway - good luck with the purchase.

The insurance is only $840 because I am 35 and 65%ncb....this is the only time I am happy to be old. I think that I may have to go to the GTS-t because I think the money could be an issue. I really had my heart set on the GT-R, but i am sure with just a few mods I could get the GTS-T to go pretty hard. Then when I get the money together I mill get my dream car. And as for the comment by GAV about me looking for the drags if I bought my GR-t, well I would love to but work keeps me busy 5-6 days a week and only getting mondays and tuesdays off means no drags, plus i am out in the county...no such thing as circut racing...shame I know.

thanks for all you advice. Should I find another $10k, GT-R here I come...lol

  • 3 weeks later...

After spending a month with my dream car a r32GTR, i can say that it compares absolutely in no way to a gtst. Everything i have heard about a gtr is so true. They are the most awesome car on the road. The one i am selling has wheel and suspension mods and is a beast to drive. It is a shame i have to sell it cause i have been leaving work early nearly every day cause i cant wait any longer to drive the GTR home. I have driven a gts-t and was way dissapointed. The GTR is 10 times the car a gts-t will ever be. The grip the thing has is so awesome, and getting the back wheels sliding mid way through a corner at 80kph is something i will never forget (nor will my undies).

By the time u buy a gts and do it up to get the power the gtr has, you will realise that you should have brought the gtr in the first place. If your in sydney give us a buzz and ill take you for a ride. cheers

ive been in a 12 sec GTR and the thing sounds absolutley mad!, this one is a genuine aust delivered which has apexi turbos apexi twin exhaust, and larger fmic, mind you a rebuild on one of these isn't cheap, but if you can afford the car you should be able to afford to service it. does some pretty mean nuts with the attessa fuse taken out!!

i wouldn't go so far as saying that a gtst is shit though, rb20s aren't all that hot but there are other engines about the place!

I want a ride in that, I wanted it when the owner was looking at selling that, he has obviously kept it and done a 12.05 down the 1/4. I had a GTSt and quite frankly, acceleration wise my silvia is as quick, I want a GT-R.

never compromise on what you really want.. if you can afford to buy it, do it, and just dont mod it for a while.. I got my GTR a few months ago and I wont go back its the best car I have ever been in... and I got a 15yr old one @ about $15,000... its stock cept for exhaust, filters, suspention, and oil cooler... has about 80-100,000kms... immaculate condition.. dude dont compromise as you will always regret that decition and when you finally rectify it by buying the GTR, you will have wasted HEAPS of cash that you could have save'd by making the GTR decission today..

BUY THE GTR FOOL!

:D

IF YOU WANT MORE DETAILS PM ME

Guest MFX_R33

A lot of people want a stock car as opposed to a modifed one due to the modded one being more thrashed.

You have to look at the fact that the previous owner knew they were buying a performance car, so even if they didn't modify it, they are just as likely to thrash it.

A lot of modified cars are also much better looked after, as far as servicing, etc, as opposed to stock ones that were just driven into the ground.

Just don't be fooled into thinking a stock car hasn't been thrashed.

Jeff.

GTR is the only way to go. Its not about the numbers on paper.

As far as servicing costs. I have had an R32 GTR now for 3 years, only failure has been the water pump. The brake rotors were shot when I bought it and needed replacing. Apart from that its just been usual consumables. Tyres etc.

I tell you what costs money. Idiot tuning, such as fitting a boost controller and seeing how fast the car goes at 1.3bar without addressing all the other issues.

Hey madcabbie, I'm thinking of purchasing a GTR too after my Gts-t.

There is nothing wrong with the Gts-t. I had no problem with my car and it is a pretty fast car to get around too.

But either way the GTR is faster, even if you modified a Gts-t to be as fast as a GTR, I don't think you will have the outright handling and grip of the Attessa.

I still have my Gts-t now, but keeping my eyes out for a nice, clean GTR.

Let us know how you go and what you end up getting.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...