Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i asked the guys to do all they can while the panels are off to prevent future rust. Now the guy told me about snake oil to spray inside the car frame, columns rails etc, through any little hole openings they can find i mean thats the only way to get inside there . Now guys or people with experince, do you think this is the best product for this ? or should i reccomend another product to the guys at the work shop?

I've never heard of snake oil so I cant speak for or against it. At work we use stuff called LPS3. In my experience it works really well. You can get it in aerosol cans or in a tin to put in spray bottles. The only problem is that i worknin aviation and it is approved to be used on aircraft which automatically makes it expensive. But it does work well. Here is the website anyway if pure keen http://www.lpslabs.com/product_pg/corrosion_pg/LPS3.html

ive used deodorised fish oil to rust proof car doors etc . . . .removed door trim and cleaned out gunk at the bottom of the door with a high pressure cleaner, allow to dry, block door drains with blue tack and sprayed the inside of the door from top to bottom keeping away from the locking mechanism and window regulators, when its dry reassemble and unplug drains and your done

Have you considered electronic rust prevention ?

When i typed snake oil that came up but i dont understand it, and is it even for cars? What did you understand from this electronic rust prevention.

For now im just going to go nuts with a fish oil spray can in every hole and cranny i can see ? What do you think?

Have you considered electronic rust prevention ?

You are thinking of the module fitted to a car that pulls the voltage current out of the coolant in the block so it cant rust as easily.

I sell a lot of stuff for all types of rust prevention at my dealership. There is upper body and under body, it comes in a tin can that is 1 liter.

You are thinking of the module fitted to a car that pulls the voltage current out of the coolant in the block so it cant rust as easily.

module fitted to a car = yes ,, pulling voltage current out of the coolant = no.gif never heard of that before.

How ERP works <-- CLICK THAT

I had one fitted to my daily a few years ago, cost $200 ish from memory. got it from tint a car

tintacar link

its pretty small, i have a little unit about the size of a business card under my bonnet, and thats all you see.

I can take some pics if you like.

module fitted to a car = yes ,, pulling voltage current out of the coolant = no.gif never heard of that before.

How ERP works <-- CLICK THAT

I had one fitted to my daily a few years ago, cost $200 ish from memory. got it from tint a car

tintacar link

its pretty small, i have a little unit about the size of a business card under my bonnet, and thats all you see.

I can take some pics if you like.

Are you saying this protects the whole body of the car? Does it break down rust aswell?

Are you saying this protects the whole body of the car?

Im not saying that,,, the people who make and sell it are though, yeah definitely.

Does it break down rust aswell?

This is taken from the FAQ page of the how ERP works link above.

Q. Is it worth fitting an ERPS system if my vehicle already has rust?

A: Yes the principal of operation works the same for both old and new vehicles. It works to slow the rate at which the steel reacts with environmental elements which cause rust. Hence, whether your vehicle is new or already has some rust, the ERPS system will work to slow the rust reaction and extend the life of the vehicle. With older vehicles it is recommended that the ERPS system be installed some four to six weeks before any rust repairs are undertaken. This allows the system to react with or neutralise any rust currently in the vehicle.

Do a bit of googleing and you will find opinions for and against, some people will say its a load of crap ,, others will swear by it. I figured, its only a couple o hundred bucks spent trying to protect a $25000 car, its worth a shot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seemed to be good when Jeff owned it but they did a shit job on my car, probably worth a think before spending 10's of thousands of dollars where they might be cutting corners
    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
×
×
  • Create New...