Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Wont Fire.

slo14

By slo14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
Posted

3rd time I have had this issue. It seems to come and go. Go out in the morning, wont fire. Try again in the afternoon and it does. Week or so later, happens again.

When it doesn't start, pull the CAS out, spin it and no ticking, nothing. Bought a brand new one. When it didn't start, changed it over, still nothing. So it's not the CAS.

Whats next to eliminate. Computer?

Anything else I should be checking ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Battery? Mine was being strange for a while, would let me start it up, but if I drove it for 5 mins and stopped it wouldn't start again. It would turn over but not fire... New battery fixed this.

wtf. a new battery fixed that ?

Battery doesn't seem to be the issue here. Cranks over fine if not extremely well. 13+ volts on the factory volts gauge.

Do u have an alarm? Sometimes they stuff up and cause issue's

No alarm I'm aware of. Under the dash there is a switch for Remote start. All stamped Nissan so i'm guessing it is an optional from the dealer. I don't have a button for it thou.

This is very intermittent. Broken one day. Fine the next. Ill have no hair left in a few days. Thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming.

Edited by slo14
Link to comment
Share on other sites
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

You said that when you took the CAS out and spun it you got nothing and since replacing the CAS didnt change that I would be looking at the electrical connections to the CAS since it seems its the CAS is not working and if the CAS is good as you have a good one I would say something dodgy in the wiring thats turning it on and off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You said that when you took the CAS out and spun it you got nothing and since replacing the CAS didnt change that I would be looking at the electrical connections to the CAS since it seems its the CAS is not working and if the CAS is good as you have a good one I would say something dodgy in the wiring thats turning it on and off.

Yes i like your thinking. Ill try get my hands on a multi meter and see if i have continuity to the computer or trace the wires werever they go.

Might even just get an auto electrician out if it doesn't start tomorrow.

I guess either pay someone to do it, or lose more hair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Yes i like your thinking. Ill try get my hands on a multi meter and see if i have continuity to the computer or trace the wires werever they go.

Might even just get an auto electrician out if it doesn't start tomorrow.

I guess either pay someone to do it, or lose more hair.

When you are spinning the CAS, do you have the ignition turned to the 'ON' position?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
_x_FiReStOrM_x_ Community Regular

_x_FiReStOrM_x_

Posted
Posted

Battery? Mine was being strange for a while, would let me start it up, but if I drove it for 5 mins and stopped it wouldn't start again. It would turn over but not fire... New battery fixed this.

Common problem for some cars (ie, astras, rodeos). If the ecu can't get a good reference voltage the car wont fire. They just crank and crank... Strange problem, i know, but it does definitely happen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
slo14 Rookie

slo14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have just checked continuity from the CAS to the computer. Everything checks out.

With ignition on I get the current voltages from the CAS plug:

pin 1 = earth

pin 2 = power - 1.55v

pin 3 = 1 deg - .3v

pin 4 = 120 deg -.3v

So the CAS if definitely getting power and signal.

What else does it need to fire? any other sensors?

If I get it towed to someone that can read from the consult, will that give me an error code to work with?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Now you need to find out why it has dropped 12V to the CAS.

If there is continuity from the power wire to the ECU, then either the ECU is not getting 12V (check power to ECU) or there is a problem with the ECU providing 12V

Also check continuity from the earth wire at the CAS plug to actual earth, not just back to the ECU. Make sure it is grounding

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • Neostead2000
      R35 OEM Injector dead times

      By Neostead2000 · Posted

      8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • GTSBoy
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
    • harambe34
      Does anyone know whats happening with harness on drivers door?

      By harambe34 · Posted

      Oops my bad, here you go .
×
×
  • Create New...