Wideband Kits

[KEBAB_DRIFTER]

Installed my wideband tonight , just ran the cable up thru where the cat sensor wire goes thru the body under the passenger seat , just cut a slit in the rubber bung and it works a treat

[linkems]

Did the 52mm gauge fit properly in there? i remember my 60mm gauge was a snug fit.

[No Crust Racing]

Turned up today, even comes with a nice big sticker and as the car is 99% track I love me some rice for it.

I found a spare 52mm cup last night so I'll get into mounting wiring etc during the week, need to swing by a mates house and borrow his welder for the bung though.

Think I'm just going to attach it to the steering column, I don't have any other spaces left that don't require drilling and my dash is a nice black unmarked/uncracked one (rare for an old S13) so it's not going there. Stereo gear is already removed and houses an SAFC2 and my oil/water temp and oil pressure gauges, A-pillar already has boost on it so seems like the best place to me.

Will update.

[Hanaldo]

Good stuff, I've been watching the ebay sale and the price has come back down again, so I may splash out for one now.

[No Crust Racing]

Yeah I think the guy I got mine from is still the has the cheapest shipped price, he's back down to 193 delivered, I got it for $192, it went up to $198 for a bit so we're only talking a few bucks either way.

KEBAB: How have you found it so far?

[SimonR32]

Installed mine on Saturday... Looks mint and appears to work perfectly for what I need

I'll try get some pics tonight, my phone camera lense cracked ggggggggrrrrrrrrrr

[JustinP]

Hmmm I think I might order one too. I want to also connect it up to my FC-Datalogit.

Good stuff, I've been watching the ebay sale and the price has come back down again, so I may splash out for one now.

[75coupe]

yep AEM sounds like the go... Ive been waiting for a thread like this to come up to make up mind on which one to get...

[Force Fed]

Now, how long until someone looks into the 7 segment LED to be modified out for a blue unit?

AEM items do look the goods though.

Edited August 22, 2011 by Force Fed

[KEBAB_DRIFTER]

seems to work spot on , going off my dyno graph

[Hanaldo]

How much lag is there between the gauge read-out and the actual RPM value? In the NIStune documentation it warns that the read-out from the sensor might be slightly behind the real-life RPM value, so if you looked at your AFR's on a dyno sheet and you wanted to fix a spike, you would have to edit the RPM points before the point where it is on the dyno...

Aaaaaaaaaaand I've confused myself with my terrible explanation

[JonnoHR31]

cant remember the figures but the lc-1 manual has some stuff in it about lag times and what it should be set to for certain distances from the head as the innovate software has built in correction for this which is adjustable.

[No Crust Racing]

Well I had an interesting time last night getting the gauge installed, welding the bung in tonight so the sensor can be hooked up.

I couldn't get my gauge to power up, this was for two reasons.

1) Despite the manual saying it wants a switched 10-18v source, it would not power up when connected to a shared circuit (that has other gauges on it) This was testing around 10.9v. I had to wire it up to another circuit that was testing around 11.8v.

2) The 4 pin connector that supplies the power/earth and gives outputs for the 0-5v analogue signal and the digital signal for data logging would not make clean contact with the pins on the gauge, I had to use a scribe and lightly bend the prongs inside the connector as well as slightly angle the pins on the gauge to make clean contact.

After that it powered up no worries.

I'll have some more info after I weld in 02 sensor tonight. I'd also considered lag as the manual states you need a good 36inches from the exhaust port on a turbocharged or high rpm car, which mine is so that puts the sensor pretty much on my de-cat pipe so I'll also be using the cat sensor hole to bring it into the cabin.

At least the sticker went on with no hassles...

[No Crust Racing]

Update time.

Welded the bung in last night and ran the sensor wire up through the cat sensor hole in the floor through the centre console and up behind the dash, what a fun job that was. I had to remove the clip from the gauge side of the sensor wire harness to fit it through the hole. I wrapped up the joined connectors in race tap and hid them away inside the end of the chassis rails to protect it (I mounted my sensor on the de-cat pipe, more on this below).

As the manual states, you should aim for 36inchs downstream from the exhaust port on a turbo or high rpm engine. This would have put me just on the edge of my front pipe but seeing as it's so nice compared to my de-cat pipe and the de-cat pipe is easier to remove should I need to I went for this location.

One thing I did find is that having it that far downstream does introduce around .5 of a second lag in the readings vs throttle input, bare that in mind when tuning. I'm not sure if AEM's tuning solution offers compensation for this like the Innovate apparently does.

If you intend on watching the gauge from your peripheral vision I'd suggest mounting it at your eye line height on the A-Pillar, the gauge readout and coloured LEDs are too small to read easily without looking at them directly, though you may be better at concentrating on the road and keeping tabs on your gauges than me.

Info wise it has confirmed my assumptions, a little rich down low and a touch lean up high. Great to have that sort of data readily available.

I'm having AEM send me out a new 4 pin harness (the power/ground outputs lead) as two of the pins in mine didn't make good contact and I had to modify it, I've already got it working but I'd rather have a new spare on hand.

In the pics below the car is not running so disregarding the reading.

[Hanaldo]

Looks good, I think I'll order one in the next few days

What sort of steel was the bung that came with? Is it mild? Anyone know if that will cause issues being welded into a stainless steel pipe??

[No Crust Racing]

Looked like mild to me, welded into mild pipe and no issues at all. Can't think of how this would be an issue on a stainless pipe.

I just dropped a hole saw through the pipe that was a touch larger than the bung so I could recess it in and get a bit of angle (manual wants minimum 10deg to stop moisture build up) Plus I needed some extra clearance.

[Hanaldo]

I thought it might cause issues with galvanic corrosion? I shall ask my exhaust guy. Not sure what I'll do if he doesn't want to weld mild to stainless

[Room42]

How much lag is there between the gauge read-out and the actual RPM value? In the NIStune documentation it warns that the read-out from the sensor might be slightly behind the real-life RPM value, so if you looked at your AFR's on a dyno sheet and you wanted to fix a spike, you would have to edit the RPM points before the point where it is on the dyno...

Aaaaaaaaaaand I've confused myself with my terrible explanation

I've had my innovate hooked up for about 3 or 4 months now. You dont need an extra hole in your dump!!! It plugs into the stock location and has 2 outputs. One for the gauge and one is a narrowband signal that you can use for the ecu to keep it at stoich when cruising. Both outputs are fully configurable. I've got my wideband talking to my datalogit which is actually a bit useless seeing as the datalogit can only give min, max, or average values. With my girlfriends help I managed to tune my car extremely well using the datalogit for knock and the wideband for fuel. You dont need a dyno to tune your car. My tune was 98 percent of what the dyno guys could do and I would have got it to 100 percent. I just had other things to do besides tuning every time I went for a drive. To answer your question straight up, any lag time that is there is almost nothing and wont affect your ability to tune it properly.

[No Crust Racing]

If you or he's worried, can't see a reason why your exhaust guy can't knock up a stainless bung easily enough.

[Room42]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dSK5alBSbw