Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Firstly, thanks to Scott for a few pointers (as usual).

It really is pretty simple - the hardest part for me was putting it back togather! :blush:

1. remove the 4 screws from under the wheel/dash

IMAG0524.jpg

2. The and bottom plastic cover can be detached. The just pop off.

IMAG0525.jpg

3. remove the right stalk by pressing in the clip (there's a corresponding one on the bottom of the stalk as wel)

IMAG0526.jpg

IMAG0527.jpg

4. remove the left stalk. Same deal as the right stalk except you need to unclip a wire harness. Use a flat blade screwdriver to press down the clip to undo the harness.

IMAG0528.jpg

5. undo the bolts which hold the instrument cluster to the dash. There are 4 bolts - two front and two back. Funny thing was I was missing a bolt - which is not surprising and confirms

that our cars (and most imports) are f**ked with either here or in Australia. Someone must've changed the dash and forgot a bolt :angry:

IMAG0534.jpg

IMAG0535.jpg

IMAG0537.jpg

6. Take the plastic cover off the ignition barrel. remove the two large harnesses which connects the instrument cluster to the car on the back. The whole dash/cluster should come out now.

IMAG0536.jpg

7. There are 4 screws (two front, two back) which needs to be undone; then undo the clips (there's a few of them) and the cluster should seperate from the dash.

put in your nismo cluster (or if your a dodgy prick...another car's cluster :whistling:)

IMAG0538.jpg

Then reverse the steps above to fit it all back.

Hope it helps!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373536-m35-instrument-cluster-removal/
Share on other sites

Nice write up. Pictures really are worth a thousand words! Even though I have no immediate requirement to remove the instrument cluster, at least I know how. Thanks :thumbsup:

Thanks for that Jethro. I'm guessing my car will have all the bolts as it came here with 100,000 on the clock- unlike the 57,000 that most of them have (they must have a reflashing tool with the same k's on it over there!).

On that, are the k's determined by the dash- so now you have the k's from the nismo dash rather than your car?

Oh, and someone needs to cut their nails, talon-boy :rolleyes:

Thanks for that Jethro. I'm guessing my car will have all the bolts as it came here with 100,000 on the clock- unlike the 57,000 that most of them have (they must have a reflashing tool with the same k's on it over there!).

On that, are the k's determined by the dash- so now you have the k's from the nismo dash rather than your car?

Oh, and someone needs to cut their nails, talon-boy :rolleyes:

LOL...

The K's are stored in the dash...yes now I've gained 50k km on my car...

not that I care...not selling it anytime soon (the car that is)

Good idea. I wound the clock back on mine about 14k when I put the new dash in, but I'm thinking if I keep the original it should be ok when I sell it, as I can show them k's on both if necessary.

The car does look its age though, doesn't look thrashed, so I'm sure it's fine. Just need to recover the steering wheel.

  • 1 year later...

so i had some time to try replace my stock cluster with my nismo one... this guide was helping perfectly until i had to remove the ignition and surrounding plastic from the stock cluster underneath.

the bottom and side clips seem to come off easy but for all my trying the top clips will not come loose. I have stopped for now through fear of breaking something...

Did others have any issues with this step at all? I'm at a complete loss at what to do now...

Cheers

  • 7 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah 98 for me, and 6.7/100 was my actual usage. On the downside the bloody thing still isn't running properly but at least they hybrid system is happy now. It starts but missfires like a bastard, and isn't throwing any code except "missfire". Thanks scoop. I did notice the AFMs are reading quite different at idle 1.33v and 1.67v so 25% variance (and have both changed and swapped them, the issue stays on the driver's side afm) so I'm looking for exhaust restriction (mouse nest?), compression issue or (hopefully not, no physical damage seen) wiring issue. Throttle might also be an issue but that is harder because you can't swap them side to side and not cheap to fire the parts cannon at.
    • I hope you're right and it somehow justifies it's existence!
    • actually, I've had one of those for a while and it gets more use than you'd think. Yes catching subframes, engines etc coming out under a car on a hoist, but also getting heavy stuff on shelving (to a certain height) without a forklift, holding the fuga's hybrid battery....like many good tools you'll find the jobs for it once you have it
    • Right, so God, it's been nearly 12 months since my last confession....  The main confession is I'm a horrible car modifier (amongst other things).  Obviously the pool was a massive distraction for the entirety of last year but really doesn't excuse me for doing nothing at all on the car for this year.  To be honest this year was a mental break to get over the extreme mental torment and pressure I put myself through putting the pool in!  It really was a slog.  The pool is still not completely finished but it might never be....  The kids love it and the wifey and I love it so mission success! I have spent a grand total of 30 minutes working on the car since when I commenced on the pool.  I just have not had a spare brain cell to be able to focus on it.  The thought of working on it just seems abhorrent to be honest.  My heart is just not into it.  Yet..... What I have done is decide that I'm a clown to not paint ALL of the underside of the car while I'm at it.  Originally I was stopping at the start of the rear subframe to then "get back to it later on once I'm ready".  Let's be honest, later on might never happen so may as well keep diving in!  I'm already balls deep so may as well go a bit deeper! So......  I've just purchased a hydraulic scissor lift table to be able to take the rear subframe out as a whole unit without having to dick around with jack stands rolling around on the ground.  Us 6' 8" blokes don't operate well at ground level! One of these- Anyway, will the investment in an expensive tool that I'll probably only ever use for one job motivate me to crack on?  Only time will tell..... Wish me luck!
    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
×
×
  • Create New...