Anyone Able To Help Me With Going Turb? Rb30

[JINSAY]

hey guys, i dont have a large budget atm, but i want a turbo lol

i've heard about getting a rb20et half cut, turbo kits via online,

super charger kits for rb30, so i'm kinda lost i can spend a bit but

still want to be relitively cheap.. Lol cheers jai

[boostn0199]

If you have a rb30 your cheapest option would be to find a stock vl turbo setup which you can prob pick up for under 1000 with everything you need. Have a look on calaisturbo. Com theres guys always selling them.

[GTScotT]

As above, that would probably be the cheapest option..

You could do better than that (with the stock motor) but it would cost more, and rival the cost of a replacement.

My recommendation would be to source an RB20DET or RB25DET from the forum and transplant it. It wouldnt be hard and parts would not cost a fortune. Try find someone who is converting their R32 to RB25 using a halfcut and buy all their RB20DET stuff off them

[JINSAY]

thanks for the replys! Yeh i was talking to my mechanic who specializes in nissan (skylines his fav)

and he siad half cut rb20et, but i've read alot about them being to gutlass and having to really flog the

Thing (causing more wear than its worth lol) so not sure man, also i was thinking vl setup, eg: the

old turbo exhaust manifold and inlet mani, but i wasnt sure if theyd line up perfect, and then just get cooler, bov

injectors, ecu, bigger exhaust, decomplate, ect;

[boostn0199]

Personslly unless your goin rb25 i wouldnt use a 20 Over a rb30.

[Hanaldo]

Me neither ^ Especially a single overhead

Have a look in the NA Performance section mate, there is a good thread in there entitled "How to Turbo Your NA". If you are thinking of going down that path, that thread will make things clearer for you.

Otherwise I agree with the other posts in here, go with an RB25DET. It will be the cheapest and easiest option.

[GTSBoy]

RB20DET will feel a lot better than an NA RB30......trouble is, in R31s, and more so VLs, the diff ratio is simply too tall and makes the RB20 take forever to come on boost and it feels really slow even when on boost. Still better than RB30 mind you, but not what I'd call fun. Neverthess, ringing the neck of an RB20 is not going to cause it any problems. They have no problem being run at >>6000rpm every gear change. I certainly wouldn't worry about wear etc, unless you don't keep good oil in it.

I also recommend that you either get a bucketload of original VLT stuff and bolt it on, or find someone who has another turbo manifold and T3 or other suitably sized turbo that they've put onto an RB30E in the past. Just get the fuel pump, injectors and management sorted out and you should be fine to fine 7 or so psi (maybe less if the motor is not as healthy as it could be - that's always the difficult part of turboing an old NA engine, not knowing exactly what it will put up with).

If you don't go too silly with the boost then you could run on the original gearbox for quite a while before it gives up the ghost.

If you were going to do a complete transplant, I reckon you'd be best off to get RB25 stuff. The extra torque, especially off boost, will mask the tall diff ratio, and R33 stuff is not too expensive. You could get pretty much everything major for <$3k, should be possible to do it for not much more than $2k - except for the other stuff that you would need to look after regardless of what motor you use - fuel pump, cooler, etc. There will always be random hidden costs that you didn't think of though, like tailshaft mods, power steering lines that don't fit the new pump, air conditioning lines etc etc. Even just doing what you should do before dropping in a new engine (timing belt, water pump, coolant hoses around the inlet manifold etc, broken exhaust studs) can add surprising amounts of $$ to the base plan.

[Rolls]

turbo the 30 with VL turbo gear, will give the best result imo, that or an rb25 swap, but that won't be cheap if you can't do all the work yourself.

Doing either of these properly will cost ~$5k once you replace the clutch, get proper tyres, fix all the broken shit etc. If its auto you'll probably kill the box fairly soon and then want a manual box blah blah it always adds up and costs lots in the end.

Cheapest option is sell it and buy one that is already turbo'd.

Edited August 10, 2011 by Rolls

[BOOZTJUNKEY]

+1 with the sell it and buy one done mate

5 g will get you s preety sweet 31 or even a half ok 32

[bubba]

Another option is to buy an RB25 with a broken bottom end and do a 25/30 conversion on your standard bottom end..

[Rolls]

sure will cost a lot of money

[bubba]

sure will cost a lot of money

I don't reckon it will, not if he's using his standard bottom end. I would almost put money on the fact it would come in cheaper than an RB25 swap as the engine itself will be a fair bit cheaper.

-busted RB25 complete with turbo and manifold $500?

-weld the water jacket on head, drill VCT feed, dunno as I used an R32 head so maybe a hundred bucks or so for welding and facing

-OEM RB26 head gasket <$100

-OEM RB25 intake/exhaust gaskets ~$150

-new idler/tensioner <$100

-25/30 timing belt <$100

-oil restrictor <$5 for a grub screw and a couple of drill bits

-2mm washer to shim oil pump pressure relief spring

-modify p/s pump bracket

-modify standard rb25 exhaust manifold to clear rb30 block

-another couple of hundred for miscellaneous hoses, clamps etc

Things like exhaust will be a custom job whichever way you go (unless fully standard VLT parts are used).

Food for thought..

[Rolls]

I don't reckon it will, not if he's using his standard bottom end. I would almost put money on the fact it would come in cheaper than an RB25 swap as the engine itself will be a fair bit cheaper.

You forgot all the turbo gear, clutch, tyres, fuel pump etc etc

It is ALWAYS expensive.

[bubba]

You forgot all the turbo gear, clutch, tyres, fuel pump etc etc

It is ALWAYS expensive.

With all due respect Rolls, because I really do respect what you have to say:

What turbo gear? I said a COMPLETE RB25 with turbo and manifolds etc..

Clutch, tyres, fuel pump etc are NOT part of the engine swap and I consider them to be things you should be doing anyway even though they are not directly related to the engine.

Even with a decent clutch and fuel pump (decent tyres, srsly why even mention it in regards to an engine swap?) + the cost of a dead RB25 will still likely be significantly less than a halfcut.

[Rolls]

Because they are always things people forget and almost always have to be done.

A stocko 25 turbo will choke a 3L as well.

I did an engine swap myself (rb25 neo) and it has cost ~$3500 so far and I already had clutch, tyres, fuel pump, injectors, turbo, intercooler, piping etc. And I did all the work myself, old engine out, new engine in. The motor was $1900 bare and the rest was for tuning and buying new gaskets, bolts, random parts, getting broken studs removed etc etc.

[bubba]

Because they are always things people forget and almost always have to be done.

A stocko 25 turbo will choke a 3L as well.

I did an engine swap myself (rb25 neo) and it has cost ~$3500 so far and I already had clutch, tyres, fuel pump, injectors, turbo, intercooler, piping etc. And I did all the work myself, old engine out, new engine in. The motor was $1900 bare and the rest was for tuning and buying new gaskets, bolts, random parts, getting broken studs removed etc etc.

The only thing that HAS to be done is a fuel pump that is up to the task. Standard clutch will last a very short while but a decent Exedy button clutch isn't exactly a wallet breaker.

I know a 25 turbo will choke up on a 3L (I can show you dyno sheets as to just how much it will choke up) but with some slightly taller diff ratios it's not a huge drama and is actually a whole heap of fun to drive what with the spooling from idle, 12psi by 2200rpm and instant boost in any gear.

I've done a few 30 conversions now and as long as everything is in reasonable condition it's not as hard or as expensive as most people make it out to be.

He already has a 3L in there so I was suggesting buying a broken complete RB25 to just pilfer the head/manifolds/ecu/ancillaries which compared to your whole Neo already brings the prices down by almost $1500.

I didn't say it was the BEST option (although I do believe the 25/30 IS the best way to go, but I'm a tad biased ) but merely another OPTION to consider. Personally I think it could be done cheaper than an RB20/25 swap and I'm not some e-mechanic saying so, I've done it.

[Rolls]

Yeah you are rightit is an option, he said cheap though and I got the impression that he wasn't going to do the work himself. At least he does know the 30det is an option now as well.

VL turbo gear is probably the only option available if he can't do an engine swap himself though.

[bubba]

Yeah you are rightit is an option, he said cheap though and I got the impression that he wasn't going to do the work himself. At least he does know the 30det is an option now as well.

VL turbo gear is probably the only option available if he can't do an engine swap himself though.

I don't pay for labour and if I had to I wouldn't be doing any of this modifying shit

Also agree that VLT stock gear is going to the cheapest and easiest way of getting a turbo on his car.

[toffy]

why not: ebay turbo + manifold , ???afm , injectors ,fuel pump, clutch, nistune? (this would be my direction if i wanted to turbo a r31) . why does everyone hate the sohc? is there really that big of a difference under 250rwk??

[Rolls]

why not: ebay turbo + manifold , ???afm , injectors ,fuel pump, clutch, nistune? (this would be my direction if i wanted to turbo a r31) . why does everyone hate the sohc? is there really that big of a difference under 250rwk??

all that business is dorrahs, VL turbo setup is cheaper and all bolts up, no weirdo manifolds etc needed.

SOHC is fine for 250kw, nothing wrong with it at all, just won't rev as much as a DOHC but really who cares for a streeter, better than a 20 imo and almost as good as a 25, more down low but doesn't have the top end.