Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dude give Bunnings a try, just make sure you get the stainless or high tensile ones and you'll be set

keep in mind that the pretty black hex bolts (high tensile I believe) will rust... stainless bolts wont but they are too bright on the eyes for me...

anyone know if were able to use the alloy hex bolts that come annodized, that way I can have all my bolts in black....

will the alloy cause any problems, reaction with heat or corrosion probs???

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Everything is black and silver in the engine bay so stainless will suit mine fine :) judging by that bolt shops products there don't seem to be any issues??

Im hooked on those alloy hex head bolts, I'll see if I can replace every bolt I can see with either socket or dome heads in black....

dome heads should be nice for the cam covers too Id think...

Thread pitch is the same for all afaik but I'm not certain. I wanted to use a dome head for the rad support brackets but couldn't find them in m6 only imperial sizes.

If you come across them let us know can ya?

Oh yeh you can get high tensile in silver fwiw.

This place has dome, flanged, socket, countersunk all with hex heads and in a variety of colours, but of course they are all alloy, and they have some really trick alloy bolts too... so they should be fine for panels low weight/heat applications...

http://www.pro-bolt.com/

I dont think a group buy would help us much either as their pack price aint that much different to their singular pricing...

Id love to put a list together of all bolt sizes, lengths, head size and counts so I can order one whole batch that will replace most engine bay bolts...

that sounds like alot of effort.... and can I actually make time to step foot in the garage at all...

The guy in the link below spent over $5,500 alone in Pro Bolt fittings.

http://www.japo-motorsport.de/motorsport/r34-gtr.html

It can be addictive and expensive !!

This place has dome, flanged, socket, countersunk all with hex heads and in a variety of colours, but of course they are all alloy, and they have some really trick alloy bolts too... so they should be fine for panels low weight/heat applications...

http://www.pro-bolt.com/

I dont think a group buy would help us much either as their pack price aint that much different to their singular pricing...

Id love to put a list together of all bolt sizes, lengths, head size and counts so I can order one whole batch that will replace most engine bay bolts...

that sounds like alot of effort.... and can I actually make time to step foot in the garage at all...

Yeah should start a thread with bolt sizes for certain items. Could be constantly edited so the first post contains all te info

I thought group buy would be good cause I thought they were UK based then found out they had an aus site. But still they might be interested in doing significant discounts on say 200 cam cover bolts

But not to sure how cheap this would get and who would want to organize it lol

The guy in the link below spent over $5,500 alone in Pro Bolt fittings.

http://www.japo-moto...rt/r34-gtr.html

It can be addictive and expensive !!

:blink: Fark!!!

1 bolt (M8 socket cap, alloy) on US site is $1.30US, same bolt on Aust site $1.84AUD

thats from the pro bolt sites... thats more than just currency exchange effecting that price...

I wonder if its more worthwhile buying from the US in that case...

1 bolt (M8 socket cap, alloy) on US site is $1.30US, same bolt on Aust site $1.84AUD

thats from the pro bolt sites... thats more than just currency exchange effecting that price...

I wonder if its more worthwhile buying from the US in that case...

Depending on how many you buy i guess... The dollar would make buying it cheaper but freight, waiting and the extra hassle would really have to be taken into account compared to how much you would save, on another note, they may make you buy from Aus shop and not send them due to that??

Hey guys,

R34 is different to the images and sizes posted, they are easier which is good =)

All i needed to buy was -

20 of the M6 x 20 stainless allen key head bolts with washers

8 of the M6 x 10 stainless allen key head bolts (Or were they 15? Damn ill check)

All up cost about $20

post-47580-0-07759500-1314062155_thumb.jpg

And before anyone comments, NO it is not a ghey N/A engine, i just have the manifolds off!!! :rofl:

damn you beat me to it, I've been counting and measuring bolts too...

but Im also replacing the M5x.8mm bolts as well...

the only other thing that changes is what style of washer, cup or countersunk configuration you decide for each of the positions the bolts is in...

like the front fender top bolts Im using cup washers and socket cap hex bolts in black alloy, cas bolts im using socket cap and plain washers in black.

other bolts will be countersunk washers and hex bolts style....

M5

M8

M6

now just to count them and group them in styles.... oh yeah and order...

Hey guys,

R34 is different to the images and sizes posted, they are easier which is good =)

All i needed to buy was -

20 of the M6 x 20 stainless allen key head bolts with washers

8 of the M6 x 10 stainless allen key head bolts (Or were they 15? Damn ill check)

All up cost about $20

post-47580-0-07759500-1314062155_thumb.jpg

And before anyone comments, NO it is not a ghey N/A engine, i just have the manifolds off!!! :rofl:

Hey is that some they N/A engine that your trying to make look tough?? ;)

Sorry man couldn't resist the bait, looks good. The hex bolts really finish them off, made a hell of a difference with mine.

Hey is that some they N/A engine that your trying to make look tough?? ;)

Sorry man couldn't resist the bait, looks good. The hex bolts really finish them off, made a hell of a difference with mine.

Here -

post-47580-0-44995500-1314139839_thumb.jpg

Now you can take your N/A and shove it!!! :rofl:

Hahaha just kidden, just cant wait to have it all bolted up :thumbsup:

Anyone can get photos from google...............just jokes man.

Looks like your build thread needs updating (like i can talk lol)

Haha :laugh:

Yeah, i will update it soon... Will get the injectors and rail seated and take some pics...

75coupe make sure some bolt pics go up in this thread so you can show my lazy effort up!!!

Anyone with an R34 that wants the bolts that i used let me know and i can try arrange to pick up a pack when i go past the bolt shop now i actually know where one is :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 100% agree. Best bet on an RB will be NEO, but even it will be a long way off. Emissions is one of the big reasons car manufacturers went to DBW and constantly variable cams. When cruising, open the throttle right up, but reduce dynamic compression so low, that it's basically an unrestricted air pump moving very little air.
    • I’m hosting a bunch of execs in the McLaren box on Saturday. If you’re around I’ll come say hi, and see if I can sneak out some freebies.
    • Yes. All of this. But even when you get the NOx as low as you can go on an RB, it will no doubt still be way too high. Same with CO and HCs. The tech and the tuning time just isn't there.
    • Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
×
×
  • Create New...