Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Alright cool, I was planning on doing it that way but wasn't sure if it'd be the correct reading as I tried to test the VCT with the hand controller but when I unplugged the plug for the VCT, hand controller still told me it was activating and deactivating haha

Would using a multimeter be a more accurate measure?

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm pretty sure my car has been a manual all along though. Dash cluster is a manual one, the stock ECU that came out was a manual one and there was only one other owner of the car before me. Weird.

.....don't forget the half a dozen owners in japan before that guy too...

Ahhh I see. No dramas then, on my lunch break I'm gonna go sit in my car and start mashing the throttle without starting it haha

On one hand, I kinda hope the TPS is the problem as I'm starting to get over the fact my car barely makes more power than a midly-fettled GTS-t pinch.gif

Just a bit of an update.

Car overheated today as the rubber hose connecting the turbo water line to the block split and caused coolant to spray everywhere. Car had to get towed.

Which raises the question, if there was an issue with the cooling system, how much would this affect timing and if it does, what hardware will it affect to cause the timing issue (eg. the turbo becomes heatsoaked and in turn superheats the air)

Also worth noting the car has run hotter than normal since the timing issue surfaced, so not sure if timng issue and overheating issues are 2 isolated problems or are connected somehow.

Ideas and thoughts would be great :)

  • 5 months later...

Oh forgot to mention, knock usually occurs in the upper RPM range. At first we thought it was a VCT issue as that's when the knock starts becoming very unstable but we've ruled out the VCT by running it both plugged and unplugged.

Also worth mentioning that the fuel rail around cylinder 4,5 anıd 6 has gone from the factory greeny-metallic colour to a heated titanium sort or bluey-rainbow colour.

if the car is getting hot, and is underpowered, then there is a very good chance that your timing is retarded.

Your CAS might be stuffed.

I'd be checking the timing with a timing light, and then if you do adjust the cas, I wouldn't be driving it around hard until a retune is done.

Ok thie relates to my last post ... Tried to copy info and add using the phone ... Didnt work ...

Anyhow, just thought, if there was no change between having vct connecyed or not, could that not indicate that the vct is not working?

Also, excess fuel flow is iften used the keep the fuel rail cool. The fuel rail gettinh hot to tye point if discolouraton my indicated that you hage reduced flow out of the rail and hence cooling flow to the rear injectors or you have something making it hot. This would heat the fuel and change the fuel flow out of them. If up, the ecu would lean out the others if flow goes down, well theres your knock.

Just my thoughts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...