The Clutch Thread - FEEDBACK PLEASE

[Cubes]

I have one of those 30% more clamping purple clutches..

It has been pretty damn good and lasted almost 2 years of hard launching & gear changes. It has always slipped a little easier than expected however the front seal of my gearbox does seep a little oil so I assume this is the cause.

[Steve]

snake, I got mine from D1 Garage, paid around $1200, and I love it:) when I consider how much the extreme cost, I just wish I had been able to pick up a twin at that price in the first place.

[snake]

Im pretty keen on the twin plate from what you and other people have said, i drive my car everyday and dont want something that shudders or is on/off in operation.

Did you get a lightened flywheel with it?

[Steve]

The twin plates come with their own lightened flywheel.

[ferni]

I put an exedy Twin Plate (new) clutch with lightened flywheel in my 33GTR yesterday. My old Heavy Duty Exedy Single was stuffed!!! had nothing at all left on it when we got it out... value for money on that clutch

The new twin plate is great from what i have driven so far, no rattling (yet, will happen when it gets a bit worn i think)... bites hard, bit heavier under the foot, but still very drivable.. I'm happy with it, makes my car feel tougher...

Nismo use the same exedy twin i put in...

[Sydneykid]

how can a twin plate clutch be easy to drive on the street as a daily driver?

Simplistically a single plate clutch, to hold say 500 bhp, has to have a much higher clamping pressure than a twin plate to hold the same 500 bhp. The reason is that there is twice as much surface (friction) area to transfer the torque in a twin plate. So if you have found other twin plates harder to drive then that would be because;

1. Maybe they are set up to handle much greater torque loadings than the single platers you are comparing them to

2. They are set up to suite a particular requirement, not what they are being used for ie; quick change, no slip competition

3. They do take some time to get used to, with twice the friction area they are quite different in feel

4. There are types of twin plates (solid centre, puck, ceramic, cermatallic etc) just like there are different types of single plates. Not one type suites all.

The reality is once you get to a certian power level you really have no choice, a multiplate clutch is a must. So the best you can do is choose the one that suites your own requirements and preferences.

[Lunatic Dancer]

good info here...

i need some input on this...i installed an orc twin plate

on my bro's s14...straight from the start when you clutch in

there is a real loud continues rattle...i didnt think much of this

and thought it was just caues its a multiplate clutch, am i right?

big problem is...it wont go into gear now.. after the install it was

fine, hard to get into first and reverse...then it loosened up after

about 500k's and now it wont go into gear... engine off no probs

but no luck when on..what could be causing this?

i've noticed that the 'rattling' when clutched in is not as noisy as

before too.. im thinking somehow the fork as shifted on the bearing

holder or something...

final question is when you guys installed your multiplate clutches

did you need to machine the bearing holder so that the bearing sits

further back from that of the factory position? to compensate for the

extra width of the new clutch?

any help would be GREATLY appreciated...

[ferni]

I put a new thrust bearing in mine (44bucks from nissan) when i did mine.

Didn't do any machining tho....

[Guest Robo's]

Running a Daiken Heavy Duty. Been in for about a year and no problems. Feels not much heavier than standard but bites strongly every time. It gets abused and has been down the strip about 20 times.

For a midly modified GTST , i recommend this.

[awurth]

I'm going for a 3000lb 5 puck ceramic clutch in my GTR. A mate is running one and it seems to be up to the job so far in his GTR. it's a bit bitey but so was the one in my GTS-t so i'm use to it. cost me about $650, was going to install it myself but I'm kinda tight for time so I'll prob get it done at the mechanics along with getting the flywheel machined.

[Minorci]

i just got the exedy single plate organic sports... driven about 400kms and bites quite good... but i still have trouble nudging forward and reversing as it shudders... not sure how long before this wears off.

I have the same and it does it, I'm not sure what causes it, but the simple and easy answer is not to ride the clutch.

[Lunatic Dancer]

ferni...which twin plate was it?

does it make any noises when u just clutch in?

anyone else installed a twinplate? sydney kid?

[Sydneykid]

ferni...which twin plate was it?

does it make any noises when u just clutch in?

anyone else installed a twinplate? sydney kid?

Several, what do you want to know?

[ferni]

Lunatic Dancer: Exedy Twin Plate....

no rattles/noises (yet, will probably get them when its worn a bit)

In fact, it actually fixed a noise which i thought was my gear box...

When in neutral, clutch out (engaged) it made a sound like something spinning, i thought it was just worn gears on my gearbox....when pushing the clutch in (disengage) it went away... after changing my clutch, that sound has totally gone....

[Duncan]

Ferni the noise was probably your thrust bearing, its normally changed at the same time as the clutch

[jnr32r]

Thinking of getting the Nismo coppermix kit from Nengun ~400ps $1600 delivered comes with pressure and clutch plates, thrust bearing and lightenened flywheel. OR

From Taka Kaira, Ogura Kit ~400ps also $1600 delivered with above parts.

Anyone heard any good stuff on these?

[ferni]

Duncan: Yes we changed my thrust bearing with a new one when we did it, the old one seemed fine tho (was a bit black from clutch dust, but spinning fine)....

As for the clutchs from overseas - be careful about 'delivered' prices... with a box that heavy and that big, you may get slammed with customs tax

[Lunatic Dancer]

Sydneykid...

i need some input on this...i installed an orc twin plate

on my bro's s14...straight from the start when you clutch in

there is a real loud continues rattle...i didnt think much of this

and thought it was just caues its a multiplate clutch, am i right?

big problem is...it wont go into gear now.. after the install it was

fine, hard to get into first and reverse...then it loosened up after

about 500k's and now it wont go into gear... engine off no probs

but no luck when on..what could be causing this?

i've noticed that the 'rattling' when clutched in is not as noisy as

before too.. im thinking somehow the fork as shifted on the bearing

holder or something...

final question is when you guys installed your multiplate clutches

did you need to machine the bearing holder so that the bearing sits

further back from that of the factory position? to compensate for the

extra width of the new clutch?

[Sydneykid]

Sydneykid...

i need some input on this...i installed an orc twin plate

on my bro's s14...straight from the start when you clutch in

there is a real loud continues rattle...i didnt think much of this

and thought it was just caues its a multiplate clutch, am i right?

Yep that's right, but not all multi plate clutches rattle. Some have anti rattle springs, they are silent just like a single plate.

big problem is...it wont go into gear now.. after the install it was

fine, hard to get into first and reverse...then it loosened up after

about 500k's and now it wont go into gear... engine off no probs

but no luck when on..what could be causing this?

Since there are 4 friction surfaces, they wear in a lot compared to a single plate with 2 friction surfaces. So they need adjusting, otherwise there is not enough movement to dissengage the clutch. Nissans don't have adjustable rods, they use a byspass in the slave cylinder to take up the slack caused by normal wear. Refer below.

i've noticed that the 'rattling' when clutched in is not as noisy as  

before too.. im thinking somehow the fork as shifted on the bearing

holder or something...

Unlikely, it is usually all or nothing when it comes to fork movement.

final question is when you guys installed your multiplate clutches

did you need to machine the bearing holder so that the bearing sits

further back from that of the factory position? to compensate for the

extra width of the new clutch?

No, but I have never done an S14 (or an S13 or an S15) for that matter. There are however a number of different Nissan fork pivots, some are longer than others. You need to choose the right one to position the clutch fork in the right place.

It sounds to me like you might have had the wrong fork pivot (too long) and that's why you had to machine the thrust holder. So how to fix it? Well, I would try a longer rod, that will at least eliminate the lack of travel question without removing the gearbox. You could weld a short piece of rod onto the standard rod or find a slightly longer Nissan rod from a different model. You used to be able to buy adjustable rods, do a bit of shopping around.

Hope that helps.

PS; it is not unusual for R32s' to break the pivot ball, I don't know whether this applies to S14's. You can easily check by looking in the fork hole with a torch.

[Emre]

SK,

Some multi plate clutches require a shortened thrust bearing carrier. ORC and HKS are the two brands i witnessed this with. Nissan make different length carriers as well.

I've never altered my pivot points as it creates more complications as you've mentioned.

Lunatic Dancer,

I think you may have mentioned out too much from the carrier which is ending up reducing your throw.

Did you try giving the system a good bleed...?