Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I got a twin plate exedy put in last weekend, with a new thrust bearing from nissan...

Its been perfect all week... the pedal is heavier and the engage point was only just up off the floor (how a new clutch should be?)

Last night something must of happened because the engage point is now all of a sudden all the way out (like my old clutch was just before it died)...

any ideas what this would be?

is there much involved in getting a Nissan patrol clutch into my R33?

Its it a bad or good idea?

What kind of parts are involved other than the clutch plate?

They are very heavy and thus slow down the response of the engine, kinda the reverse of a light flywheel.

You get a fricton plate, a pressure plate and a thrust race in the kit.

Hope that helps :)

thanks Sydneykid for clearing some up....

so, rattle is normal...even though its so loud normal ppl thinks ur car is stuffed :(

pivot ball hasnt broken - i've whitnessed my other bros gtst when that happened...

Emre - yep its a secondhand orc twinplate... very new though 3.9mm plates...

i have tried bleeding it again.....this time taking out the dampener system as well

like my 180.....to bleed the slave cylinder it needs to be pushing against something right?

ie. clutch fork > pressure plate.....i found that it wasnt going anywhere until i physically

pushed the fork against the S.cylinder then it started to pick up...

i dont think anything is broken......at the start i thought that i might have machined

a bit too much off the carrier too but why would it work fine during the 500ks?

which leads me to believe that somehow somethings moved, but how?

when bleeding i tried putting something between the fork and the S.cylinder tip and it

felt much better (pedal) but didnt wanna try starting car on the stands....

i will probably remove the dust boot and take a look inside..

  • 1 year later...

Hey Sk - old thread and all. I have a Patrol clutch in my car.. are they heavier than the equivalent skyline HD clutch (single plate)?

Seems to feel like a decent clutch but am I loosing out on a bit of response?

Not that I'm going to change it but wondering what power it is good to - around 230rwkw?? Its a bit over a year old - so pretty new still

Thanks

Edited by benl1981
Can anyone confirm for me if the series 2 r33 gtst has a pull type clutch or a push type clutch.

Steve,  where did ya get your twin plate os giken from?

i have a series two gts-t and it is push type

hey i have read a heap of these clutch threads and cant find a straight out answer. I need a clutch to hold around 280rwkw in an r33 series 2 box...

im assuming launching in a button in the wet up hill in traffic is impossible...so i am wanting to avoid that....what are my options?

Thanks for the advice in advance.

Old thread but I'll thow my 2 cents in :)

I've just installed an O.S.Giken TSR2CD Twin Plate Clutch and so far I'm impressed !! It has a MUCH lighter pedal feel than the old TS2C/D and TS2B/D. It has the same feel as a stock GT-R clutch ( which takes a lot of getting used to :P ). It's still rated to 600hp at the engine and is very driveable. The new clutch kit comes with a new release bearing and carrier already assembled. Cost is around the $2k mark but is SO worth it when you next get caught in traffic :P

BTW If anyone wants a really good 2nd hand O.S.Giken Twin Plate Clutch that will hold up to 250rwkw for R31, R32 or R33 at a great price, PM me :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha ha ha! I know those feels mate I've finally got the garage cleared enough that next weekend I'll do some actual work on my car (hopefully). Unfortunately garage isn't usable after 10am at the moment That said, I've done a lot of work this weekend on helping finalise a friend's Production Race car. Full started Christmas Eve. We're down to about 8 tasks on the list, including "get a wheel alignment". Sometimes it's just easier working on someone else's car or project than our own stuff 😛
    • Ha ha, ended up going it alone.  I just sent it (in a very nervous fashion).  Once I'd released the locks and it didn't automatically start spinning out of control i felt a bit more confident.   It made some loud sounds (cracking and creaking noises) when I first spun it which got the heart rate going again!  I couldn't bring myself to leave it tipped on the side.  I feel a bit more comfortable having back right side up while it sits there. I'd get angry with your last point but you're 100% correct! 😅 Even yesterday I managed to distract myself at numerous times to make a bracket to fit an LED flood light off the back of the house and fix my sons pushbike.  There were other little taks nibbling at my brain for the rest of the day too...
    • Probably one of the more nerve wracking experiences of my entire life! 😂😂 The balance (centre of gravity) is out still but in a direction that gives me comfort!   It's quite bottom heavy still meaning it takes a bit of muscle to rotate it.  The plus side of that is that it wants to to go back to upright.  Better that than wanting to go all stranded turtle on me!
    • hmmm that's not ideal. This is a pretty new engine right, will be interesting if your engine guy has any theories about causes
    • A universal ball joint removal c press kit is better money spent and will work for the Hicas ball joints.  Here's a 45$ CAD Example. ATPEAM Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press Kit with 4WD Adapters | Professional 4 in 1 Ball Joint Press Removal and Installation Tool for Cars and Trucks | Universal Ball Joint Tool with Storage Case, Ball Joint & Tie Rod Tools - Amazon Canada
×
×
  • Create New...