Paint Restoring Or Maintenance

[Factory 5]

Hey all,

Thought to get some insight on how you get yor car shiny and bright.

Most topics in relation to this are applicable to 'newer' models

Currently I have some white panelwork needing attention (seems there isn't clear coat?)

Oxidization and exhaust/carbon stains everywhere, even greasy hand prints.

I used stainless polish on a test patch, did an excellent job but prob not best product?

Also used 'orange power' house cleaner stuff, really gets rid of grease but makes paint go soft and calky (fail)

Also the underbody needs alot of degreasing and painting, was thinking BBQ paint like'pot belly black' brushed on would be indestructible?

So if you have a product or process in shining up our old birds do post it up!

[jrh001]

I have insight in what not to do. Re-painting sections, individual doors and guards doesn't really work - the paint never matches well. At least not when using rattle cans, even the colour-matched ones, where you take a sample (eg fuel flap) and they attempt to match the colour.

I think clear coat is only used over metallic colours, details here http://vgautopaints.com.au/diy.html

JH

[Ghostrider]

Solvex

[masTers]

Clear should be used over everything. Just maybe not 30 years ago

[Ghostrider]

In 1973/74 Nissan and I guess every other Japanese vehicle manufacturer was the using BAKED ENAMEL where everything local was still using duco and that is where I guess is the problem.

I had an 1973 180B SSS purchased from Capital Motors - Auburn NSW in September 1973 and in December 1973 it was parked in The Avenue Hurstville and it was side swiped by some unknown cockhead doing a burn out whilst turning the corner.

It was originally "baked enamel" and the repairer used duco and as it did not oxidise the same as the original colour it was 2 different colours 6 months later and no matter that the damaged area was resprayed twice, the car was always forever more 2 colours. And the insurance company refused to do a total respray to make it all the same colour even when it was only 3 months old at the time of the accident.

Cheers, D

[Ghostrider]

The orig question was how to clean????????

Mags knows only to well how bug & tar remover works but is fairly aggressive.

D

[Factory 5]

I found out that Kerosene is the main active ingredient in bug & tar remover...

ouch

[Factory 5]

Quick update,

My brother is a detailer for BMW in Brisbane, and suggested for a daily that isnt a show-car and has old paint with no clear coat, is to use:

'Clay Bar' to remove grime and scum out of the paint,

and also a 5 lt bucket of hot water, and 5ml of Kerosene to strip of any waxes/polishes/compounds etc that may of been applied over the years.

then Nu-Finish (that stuff in the orange container) with a damp microfiber cloth, let dry, then buff off with clean microfiber cloth. (works on water stained glass, and also chrome or polished metal trims)

Wait a week and re-use nu-finish a 2nd time.

The wax it (turtle or mequiars) to seal it

So I goes to Autobarns, and Nu-Finish is on special with a matching car wash (has orange oil in it or something)

Did a testing session with nu-finish on the Bonnet (as its going to be thrown out its beyond repair... seriously it has paddle pop sticks epoxied into the front lip and bogged over.... lol)

Came out pretty well, I was impressed! (chrome trims came out immaculate, as did the window)

When I ever find my photobucket account again I'll add some pics.

I might look into a wax application later to seal it from road grime/water stains etc.

[skybt1]

I could never get my old paint to look new again.

Now i see the best form of maintenance is shelter, and regular polishing.