Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey hey peeps

i have pulled out the dash out of my 180sx, and it has the usual cracks and stuff. i have been thinking of laying some fiberglass over it and while i am at it have my gauges molded in

just wondering what the go with this, i have notice that there is a layer of foam under the vinyl so i was thinking of just cracking off all the vinyl and just soaking some resin and a layer of mat on top of the foam

also been thinking of getting it carbon fiber if possible

im not trying to get a show effect here just neat as this is my drift car

thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/373936-fiberglassing-dash/
Share on other sites

Check out this site: Fibreglass Forums

You have to sign up to get into the forums and see the pics but it's well worth it. Plenty of good inforamtion in there. I did a lot of reading before I tackeled my Carbon over Fibreglass front lip project.

test it out, alot of foams cannot handle the glassing process, you may need to strip the foam and outer vinyl then lay it over the plastic/board that's below.

^^^yep, i reckon the fibreglass resin will disolve the underlying foam big time

Check out this site: Fibreglass Forums

You have to sign up to get into the forums and see the pics but it's well worth it. Plenty of good inforamtion in there. I did a lot of reading before I tackeled my Carbon over Fibreglass front lip project.

I second this, look up anything done by Nexson. He is very good at making this look OE and perfect (ie lot's of filler and sanding :)). Might need to joining the forum to search but well worth it. I do recall going through a massive thread regarding a dash 'upgrade'.. quite ridiculous but still a great display of skills to do what he did.

  • 3 weeks later...

Fiberglassing is pretty easy, I'm self taught through forums, videos, trial and error, have made dashes, trims, HEAPS of repairs and even custom body kit parts.

The foam is best to be taken off, can be frustrating to tear off at times but if you slap glass and bog over top you'll have a lot of fitment issues.

The actual shape of the dash under the foam can differ a lot from what you see on top but you can fix all that and shape it how you like with MDF and cloth =)

This is a dash I'm currently making for a mate, nearly ready for primer, filler and final sand before paint =) It is different but yea =P

Also pays to FIX the fiberglass to the actual dash to prevent cracks or movement, for example, rough up the plastic with the roughest sandpaper you can get or drill a few small holes here and there to make an anchoring point and glass a little underneath, or even rivets or flat headed screws.

305396_10150278683147891_658797890_7843016_4435497_n.jpg

293266_10150278683197891_658797890_7843018_7742584_n.jpg

Carbon overlay on fibreglass isn't too difficult but you have to use the right epoxy resin and make sure that the curves are subtle. Complex curves require a vacuum pump. Check out the carbon thread on the fibreglassforums.com. You can also check out my carbon lip build thread.

I'm self taught too thanks to some work my dad taught me and those forums.

  • 2 weeks later...

im thinking of making it light weight now, any ideas on how to use the dash as the mould? was thinking al foil and some type of mold release to make a fiberglass mold, then the mold release on the inside of the mould then glassing the inside.

if you understand what i mean

I was going to do that as well.Just by taking the wrap and foam off exposing the bare plastic of the dash board. Then you can add a layer of carbon fiber. But then I thought about shinny paints don't do well. It could have a massive effect on your vision while driving.

So all I did was made this huge pod until I have the time for visuals.

Edited by koe
  • 3 weeks later...

a friend gave me the idea of using some sort of fencing/chicken wire and pressing it onto the dash the make the shape of the dash, then using al foil inside the wire then glassing.

im not going to be using any of the air vents so i dont have to worry about the complex shape for them

good idea?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Been so long since I have been here,seeing SDU is dead. I had that problem on my gtr in 2006 but luckily there was no engine damage,it was inspected by Hytech Engines,race bearings and extended crank collar put in and that was about it. Hopefully yours is sorted now.
    • Would it not be cheaper to just spray nitrous?
    • I've got cash, it's the NA LOLS I'm after now Plus, I've had a few boosted cars, and it is soooo easy to turn a reliable car into a unreliable drivetrain eating money pit monster by just paging up and chasing more My power goal for the NC is to try for a reliable naturally aspirated 150kw or 200hp atw (I'm old, and the old naturally aspirated cherry of 100hp per litre is a goal that I would like to hit), no more is really needed for what I use the car for,  so a additional 5kw is what I'm chasing now,  that 5kw is about $3k away, I think....
    • I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.
    • So, good news and bad news Bad news first: The intake plenum is lost in the mail apparently, I haven't paid for it yet, and MX5 Mania are still chasing it up, farking 'Merica postal service  Good news: Any retune will be free if and when it turns up,  I'm still keen for them to throw it on The car goes noticeably better, with only the typical initial take off thingie from a choppy cam and manual transmission, but giving it just a little more RPM than before gives it a smooth take off (and hour or so of peak hour traffic sorted that little skill out) Car made around 145kwatw & 225Nm (Intake may get me to 150kw, maybe....🤣) Weirdly, 145kwatw is the same max power that my standard 2015 WRX STI made a few years ago The cam really comes alive from around 3.5k and keeps making power and holds it flatish all the way to 7k, whereas before torque would drop hard around at 4.5k Drive home was sadly in peak hour, although I did get a little clean air here and there to wind out 1st and 2nd a little bit, and whilst the gains aren't anything for the "boosted boys" to be impressed at, the thing is a blast to drive The sound in the vid is poor, as it is in a undercover yard at work, but, outside, in the wild, it sounds awesomeballs to my ears with all the choppyness I consider it money very well spent for the outcome  Cam specs for reference (Basically the biggest you can fit with stock pistons) 20250417_171807.mp4   LOL, I don't think I will ever grow up  
×
×
  • Create New...