Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the R33 turbo has a steel compressor wheel

the r34 turbo has a plastic compressor wheel

they both have ceramic exhaust wheels

ive herd that some S2 R33 turbos have the plastic wheel aswell but im not sure.

but i think the plastic compressor wheel is better then the ceramic one from the R32s.

but i think alot of the gained power has been from the VVT. There's less lag aswell.

Well I guess it depends what limits rpm first, the valvetrain or the bits of metal swinging around underneath...

After hearing the Blitz R34 drifting car screaming on the (sounds like 8,000rpm+) limiter I am guessing that this is the difference.

an RB26 has the same size bore and a longer stroke and revs higher than an RB25 so...

Well I know it probably doesn't mean much cos I don't know what the R33's rev like but at 7000rpm mine absolutely sings. Haven't tried taking it higher though.

The turbos for the R33 and R34 bolt on exactly the same. I assume they have exact power comparisons. After my turbo blew I was looking at a rebuild but after alot of frigging around I just brought an R34 turbo yesterday and I get the car from the performance shop today. I will post in the next few days with any differences (if any) I notice with the new turbo and hopefully some dyno sheets to compare

Well I guess it depends what limits rpm first, the valvetrain or the bits of metal swinging around underneath...

After hearing the Blitz R34 drifting car screaming on the (sounds like 8,000rpm+) limiter I am guessing that this is the difference.

Hit the rev limiter on me GTT for a short time.. oops.. :| But friend of mine reckons its a very sweet sound.. :)

As to the original post.. not sure about the exact diff between the two turbos.. but was told that the standard R34 turbo can take 1bar normally no problem. Tho cant say I'm gamed to do it atm. :(

Hrmm.. 0.7 bar.. what does that read on the standard boost gauge? Think mine is running approx. that, on my boost gauge the needle goes over ~2/3mm after the indicater between the 0 and 1+ :) (On boost that is) The turbo seems fine, cause I usually drive with more than just a few squirts.. :(

Ppls,

Skylineboy: Titanium wheels? Yes, F1 turbos used to have these. Obvious advantages, and obscene costs.

I've raised my boost upto the factory boost cut point on my R34 (a touch below of course) and and have had zero problems thus far (* frantically knocking on wood *).

I bounce off the rev limiter quite often. The factory tacho in the dash just isn't fast enough and first gear often sees me hit the limiter. oh well, that's what its there for!!

BASS OUT

  • 8 months later...
the R33 turbo has a steel compressor wheel

the r34 turbo has a plastic compressor wheel

they both have ceramic exhaust wheels

ive herd that some S2 R33 turbos have the plastic wheel aswell but im not sure.

The S2 R33 GTS25t type-m has a turbo charger made by hitachi, and it's had a ceramic compressor wheel.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sag as in the windows start to slowly open themselves, or they're just slow to go up/down with engine off?
    • It looks like it needs a big worm gear drive on it to control the rotating, not a few sloppy pins!
    • As Duncan said, first there was OBD, which few cars used, then came OBD2.   Now an interesting point, OBD2 isn't even for what you want to do. OBD2 is for emissions testing. There is some sensor data on OBD2, but it's up to the manufacturer what they're putting on it. Most scan tools operate on UDS, which like OBD2 is a standard built on-top of CAN. UDS specifies how to structure a message, what very limited things mean such as "read memory address" but it does not specify what is stored in which memory address, that is all up to the manufacturer. You either a scan tool compatible with that vehicle, or to know how to reverse engineer all the data, which can take a VERY long time and a lot of vehicles to get it right. Oh and then the manufacturer does a firmware update and changes what's where... Ask me how I know that as fact Oh, and by the time you've got the scan tool that supports all the manufacturers stuff, well, you're back at "But a consult cable and the Nissan software" The main difference being most manufacturers software these days works with the same hardware readers, as the readers are built to support J2534 which is another standard for how the PC communicates with the tool to make it do specific things on the car...
    • Rotisserie is fully assembled apart from centre connector which obviously isn't required until the car is on it. It packs away fairly neatly and doesn't take up too much room. (Now that I actually have some room after my clean up!) Overall very happy with the quality of it.  Assembly was a piece of piss.  The only thing I didn't like was that the pins that lock the rotation lock wheels in place were a bit of a dick in a bucket scenario. It allowed the arms to rotate a significant amount even when locked in place.  To fix that i measured up the hole and went and grabbed a couple of 18mm fully threaded bolts and a thread tap to suit. I ran the tap through top and bottom so it was threaded both ends.  Then just threaded the bolt through both sides.  It has made a massive difference which hopefully you can tell in the before and after video how much difference it made. 20250207_161431.mp4   20250207_161431.mp4 Hopefully back working on the car over the next few weeks.   20250207_162801.mp4
    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
×
×
  • Create New...