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Well, after having the head for over a year i have finally decided to start my build. Head is getting a full recondition atm, standard cams, standard gasket kit.

Power Goal is around the 400rwkw mark, however i would like to only rev it to 7k for reliability.

It is a build on a budget as most are, however i am after a reliable and best bang for your buck build.

Car is my daily r32 gtst , rb25 gearbox, kaaz 2 way diff. Would like to get it to the track once its built.

Hoping for 400rwkw with a gtx3582 .82 rear setup, 20 +- psi (see how it goes) , but would like to only rev it to 7k. Thoughts on this power goal vs turbo? etc?

Parts i Have / have coming will have an * after them.

Rb30 s2 Block, Crank etc*

Rb26 Head, full reco, standard gasket kit*

Haltech e11v2*, going to do a flying lead kit

Twin 044 fuel pump setup with surge tank*

OS Giken rc3 Tripple plate clutch + Flywheel*

26/30 Timing Belt*

Rb26 Harmonic Balancer* (your thoughts on this, vs aftermarket. Most likely limit at 7k though)

Standard twin cam Oil pump*

Rb bottom end Plans:

Cp forged pistons (8.2:1) (engine builders recommendation)?

Spool Rods

Rebore, Deck Block, Balance

Crank balanced and linished

Not sure on bearings, acl race maybe?

standard rb26 head gasket

Rb26 balancer + oil pump (as above)

Crank Collar, Many makes available... jun maybe?

Oil Pump,

I have purchased a second hand twin cam oil pump, however not sure on my plans yet.

Was planning to use the reimax replacement gears. (http://www.rhdjapan.com/reimax-oil-pump-gear-kit-skyline-gt-r-rb26dett-54021)

But, would it be worth doing this to the n1 oil pump as it has much better flow and the only weak point is the gears?

Thinking maybe sending the pump to reimax (through rhd ) to get a rebuild, They also put 12mm gears in and up flow rate 10% (http://www.rhdjapan.com/reimax-reinforced-and-capacity-up-oil-pump-gear-kit-skyline-gt-r-rb26dett-59391)

Both can be done with n1 pumps or standard. Your Thoughts? much appreciated :)

Turbo kit:

Garrett gtx3582 .82 rear V band?

50mm gate, turbosmart?

Some variety of 800 ish cc injectors? or injector dynamics 1000cc injectors, heard they are good?

Have a mate that can make me a custom Steam-pipe manifold fairly cheap ;)

That's all i can think of atm, your thoughts and opinions much appreciated people :)

I know this topic has been covered to death, but for the last few weeks all i have been doing is reading about it, however I don't have all the answers i want.

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Looks good. Couple of comments:

- will you run E85 at any stage? if so, you will need at least 1000cc injectors. If you run E85 I would go 9:1 CR with the higher octane fuel. Even with 98 I wouldnt go any less than 8.5 as Simon said.

i just grabbed that off the spool website, 8.5:1 CR does sound more like what he said...

So you reckon 8.5:1 or 9:1?

also, thoughts on the oil pump would be very helpful, n1 or standard ;)

standard balancer be alright?

Nah, i dont reckon i will run E85 as it is my daily, but ill keep it in mind just incase ;)

Cheers for the help :)

cheers for the input :) shall have a talk to the guy about it when i pick up the head ,

yeah daily and i want to start going to track :)

ARP 26 head studs is what i was thinking?

And Iv heard good stuff about Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors...

Will it be good enough for 20+ psi with 9:1 CR?

Also no input on balancer or oil pump yet :P

Cheers

OIL CONTROL.

Oil restrictors 1x 1mm 1x 1.5mm, if you can run additional oil drains directly to the sump rather than into a T fitting on the turbo drain you are better off doing it that way (DRAINS always to the exhaust side of the engine, VENTS from the intake side, drains to the intake side are nowhere near as effective) (i will be able to get pictures of my block to demonstrate this later this week)

i have 4 fittings welded to the sump to take extra drains/vents (2 x head to sump and 2x sump - catch can)

the extra oil drain in the head is from between cyls 3 and 4 and is a grub screw, there hasn't been much talk about this drain until recently and unlike the one from the back of the head it is low enough that it will be an aid in returning oil to the sump rather than just a crank case breather.

BEWARE, I had 2 x 1mm restricters in my 25/30 and would fill the catch can and overflow it using a TOMEI pump reving to 7000 rpm down the straight at Wakefield, it had head drains and a return to the sump drain from the can, do lots of research on this, you may be fine using a standard pump though, just don't rev the standard pump to hard though as they are known to fail if reved too high, look in the forced induction sticky frequently asked questions and do all the oil mods if you can.

Lots of good info from Sydney Kid if you can get around the thread wars.

Good luck.

thanks heaps for the info guys :)

i shall read that thread when i find some spare time,

Have the oppurtunity to buy a second hand Jun oil pump for $650, thinking i should buy it?

however, opinions on the jun oil pump, standard sump? which oil restrictors? does it have to much flow and pressure?

or would i still be better to go with std or n1 with reimax gears?

Also do you think i would need an oil cooler setup?

Cheers, Chris. :)

Buy the Best Oil Pump you possible can,

NITTO are well priced, any of the jap brands, youd want to know the condition is A1 before purchasing second hand.

You'll want a bigger sump, also read the Oil Control Thread..

Balancer, Oil Pump and Oil control are very important

the stock rb26 balancer should be fine shouldn't it?

The Jun pump was used in a r33 dyno queen, he said it has had low ks and little if any life on the limiter.

I would get the pump xrayed for cracks before i used it?

Was reading the oil control thread, thoughts on an oil drain between cylinder 3 and 4 on the head rather than at the rear? heard of a few people doing it that way.

what size sump? what price range would they be in as i have no idea?

And yeah, i hope it will make a good daily ;)

Much thanks, Chris

Triple plate clutch for a daily? I would be looking into other avenues here. Even a OS twin plate would do the job, plus be a whole lot easier on the drivetrain as you can get twin plates with a sprung center still. Or maybe even a Jim berry jobby? OS twin is a really nice clutch though, and should hold the power fine. Triple plate just wouldn't be a very nice clutch to drive IMO...

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