Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this is not the best forum to ask this, but it beats joining calaisturbo...

I'm looking at buying an old 'vette (1980) from QLD. It's never been registered in Australia before, so I need to get a VASS cert when it gets to Vic. It has had a 350 V8 crate motor put in, the original engine is a 350, but the crate motor is much stronger/less emissions control crap. It has a QLD mod-plate/certificate for the swap (done in December so it's a recent cert). So, the way I understand it, that means it's ADR compliant right? So it shouldn't prevent it from passing VASS in Victoria?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374106-qld-mod-plates-apply-in-vic/
Share on other sites

basically NO....the mod plates doesnt mean shit in other states

Im not saying it wont pass in vic, sounds too me like it should but the mod plates is legal for QLD registration.

Another shining example, is you might have a high mount turbo that is mod plated in QLD (and yes it can be done quite easily), take it to another state and it will be illegal.

Mod plate means nothing down here in Vic.

The motor will need all the emissions controls fitted for that motors age.

So if it was out of a 2000 model say, it would need those controls fitted.

If it was pre 1976 i believe you'd have little worry but as it's 80s i dont think its as easy.

A VASS will point you in the right direction, but dont be under the impression it'll be a simple affair.

basically NO....the mod plates doesnt mean shit in other states

I get that it doesn't certify the mod interstate, but doesn't it certify that the mod complies with the national design rules? So the VASS folks should be able to pass it as ADR compliant also? What I want to know is, does that mod plate mean the engine is ADR compliant? The slip says it complies with the applicable ADRs, which is just LO1 on the slip. So, does that mean it meets Australian Design Rules, and thus still meets them when moved to Victoria (thus meaning I don't need to modify the engine for VASS)? I'll ring a VASS guy tomorrow, but I assume they'll say they need to see the car and $750 before they'll even tell me. It'd just be good to know before I buy the car which I'll probably do anyway.

Full ADR testing is required in Vic for full modification approvals.

The mod plate certification in other states does not mean the full testing was done, which it wasn't, so hence not legal.

Most VASS are rather strict down here. Best to talk to them BEFORE you go buying. Give them pictures, photos etc.

If you tell them first it'll save ass ache later on

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...