Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Garret gt25r hybrid high flow ball bearing rated 450hp only 5000kms on it

Sell: $1800

cost:$2595

Ap Racing 4 spot calipers with 330mm slotted rotors inc custom hats and brackets for jza70 supra only done 1000kms (show car)

Sell: $2000

cost $3200

Blitz fmic kit for r32 piping etc BRAND NEW still in box never used

Sell:$800

cost:$1400

Haltech E6K ecu with used loom (still plenty length)

Sell:$1000

cost: $1500

R32 GTR Bonnet, metallic black, excellent condition.

Sell: $600 ONO.

Email: [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37419-fsgt25r-turbo-brakes-fmic-haltech/
Share on other sites

RR 32 WA: just tried to email u but got I got a failure notice... I'm interested in the cooler kit, can u pls send me a pic and dimensions would be great. If this is the kit I'm looking for I'll pruchase it off u immediately. My email is: [email protected]

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.
    • Yeah...I always start at the shift solenoids, because there's only a few reasons these will spook into limp mode, and bad shift solenoids is one ~ the other can be the shift control module (if you have steering wheel shift buttons)...it's easier to eliminate the solenoids first.
    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
×
×
  • Create New...