Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone.

I'm new to the whole Skyline scene so please bare with me and excuse any *silly* questions.

Firstly congradulations on an excellent day last sunday. The turnout of vehicles was amazing and I applaud the organisers on how civilised and professionally handled the day was.

Well after much reading and browsing of this forum of late, I have a couple of questions that I was hoping to have answered by people who have either been in similar situations or have related experiance.

1. I'm interested in getting an R34 GT-T. I've been looking at all the import sites and the prices vary greatly. What would you expect a ballpark figure to be for one of these rated 4.5? Are these prices delivered to the end-user or just to get them into the country? ie By the time you do everything that has to be done at the end of the day, whats the total amount likely to be (rough estimates)

2. I currently drive a VX clubsport (255kw) and was wondering how the two compare on the road? On paper they look very similar but the driving experiance can be entirely different! (This is not intended to be a flaming question)

3. Is it possible to get an R34 GTR bodykit for a GT-T? They look very similar but theres just something about the looks of the GTR :D

Thanks everyone :D

1. R34 GTTs are around $30-45 depending on mileage, mods, condition, etc

2. hmm .. how can you compare a skyline with a VX ? skylines handle way better :D

3. the bonnet of the GTT and the GTR are different, if you look at where the bonnet ends

at the lights, you can clearly see the difference, the rear bar is different too .. :D

hope you'd join the skyline club. GTTs are nice. cheers !

1. Couldnt tell you, but i'd expect to pay up around the mid $30k-$40k for a nice R34 GT-T (although I could be way off as I'm not rich enough to buy one yet)

2. I would suggest the Skyline is a very different car to drive, being a turbo (more viscious power as u'd probably be aware) and somewhat 200-300kg lighter than a VX commmie (perhaps more!!).

3. It is possible to get the front bar, skirts, rear bar, spoiler etc... but it is more difficult to get the wider guards that the GT-R has. (Not 100% bout R34, but R33 and R32 definately have the wider guards, hence why there is something bout their looks compared to the GT(s)-T.

Hope this helps to some degree.

Being a previous owner of a beautifull GTT, the only advice i woukd say is, GTR is far way better as i as you can see alot of R34 GTT owner change to an R33 GTR or any GTR if we can afford it. Please try to drive both car, see the driving felling before you get urself a car.

you'll find it very differnt driving the skyline to the vx. both are decent to drive however the skyline is a smaller car, handels better, faster, and depends on the person looks better.

however it doesn't have cruise control and the fancy trip computers ect.

i have driven my mates vt commodore a fair bit. and its a nice car to drive, just to big for me and i feel more comfortable driving my r33. also i find the commodore has more blind spots and not as easy to feel wats going on.

but end of the day its up to each person

1. same as what everyone else said really

2. take a vx clubby sideways, then get in an r33 and do the same, compare the difference. the skyline will come out on top. japs have the camber and handling tuned perfectly.

3. by the time you buy the guards, bonnet, front bar, rear bar its probably not worth it. youd be better off just buying a gtr, less screwing around. the main problem is the flaring of the guards. if you can do that cheap then rest isnt too bad i guess?

Just on part 3 - have a look around at some of the body kits that are available for the R34 GT-T. Some are fanstastic and yet still look like a GT-T rather than trying to look like something that it isn't.

But as calvintys said - if you are thinking of buying for performance reasons make sure you drive an R33 GTR as well as an R34 GT-T as costs are very similar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...