Piston/rod Combo On A Budget?

[N1GTR]

Have a look at the Ross balancer with the crank trigger.

[Beer Baron]

and if you are keeping AC then it's a road car so for sure Ross probably fine.

[karma_syke]

wow $2k for a full kit, you could re build an entire engine including turbos for $5k?

[N1GTR]

No.

[SargeRX8]

2k for that kit looks really nice. I want to ask some question of my own and do not intend on hijacking the thread. Would it be a waste of money to simply by the kit and fit it into the block? Are these direct replacement pistons or slightly larger? I can understand the prep work on the bottom end etc but how much is necessary? How much of it can be done your self(without any machining tools etc)? Would it be necessary to work the head too? This is a situation where you are NOT chasing big power but just to strengthen an engine to keep it happy and running smoothly. This is not in relation to my car, just information I'd like to know. Most of the times you see rebuilds are people going for huge power or huge turbos etc. You don't very often hear about the little guy running a high flow or a small Garrett 3071 building using forged parts.

I was this close || to buying a VL motor the other day just to build up the bottom end and save it for a very rainy day. Ive done so much mechanical work and would love to say that I have built a motor.

I cringe when I see knock on my power fc and I'm scared this might bring me some day closer to a rebuild. I know if you pop a motor there is definitely more work than just replacing pistons(scored bores etc)... I'm looping here lol.

[TiTAN]

if you are worried about the tune back the timing off a bit. no point building the engine unless it pops if you are sticking to a smaller turbo. its just money that can be saved for IF it happens.

[stiddy]

2k for that kit looks really nice. I want to ask some question of my own and do not intend on hijacking the thread. Would it be a waste of money to simply by the kit and fit it into the block? Are these direct replacement pistons or slightly larger? I can understand the prep work on the bottom end etc but how much is necessary? How much of it can be done your self(without any machining tools etc)? Would it be necessary to work the head too? This is a situation where you are NOT chasing big power but just to strengthen an engine to keep it happy and running smoothly. This is not in relation to my car, just information I'd like to know. Most of the times you see rebuilds are people going for huge power or huge turbos etc. You don't very often hear about the little guy running a high flow or a small Garrett 3071 building using forged parts.

I was this close || to buying a VL motor the other day just to build up the bottom end and save it for a very rainy day. Ive done so much mechanical work and would love to say that I have built a motor.

I cringe when I see knock on my power fc and I'm scared this might bring me some day closer to a rebuild. I know if you pop a motor there is definitely more work than just replacing pistons(scored bores etc)... I'm looping here lol.

hey mate, i'll break it down and try make as much sence as I can for you.

for 2k to *start* with. (what im doing)

Oversize (.020) Forged CP Pistons 8.5 compression.

Forged Manley H-beam rods

ACL race Main/Rod barings

Tomei headgasket + cometic engine gasket set.

= $2055US inc freight. = $1974.80 Aussie bucks.

All machine work/preping of the block

= $1200

Complete head service ex parts(if needed)

= $850

My bill is about $4k But im chasing better deals or might grab a http://www.lewisengi...m.au/prod30.htm

But im ripping the engine out, striping it down and re-assembly myself.

The pistons I have ordered are not a direct replacement. Standard pistons are 86mm. The CPs I ordered are 86.5mm so .5 bigger or .020thou over. Reason for this is to get the block machined to effectively start with a fresh bore so the new rings have 'new' metal to bed into rather than trying to bed in on an already scored bore.

Ive been quoted $1200 for the block to be fully machined/bored/honed/decked and preped. I personally think this is a little steep so im currently ringing around.

You could order a new set of standard size pistons/rings and throw them into your standard block and run it. Hope for the best they seal and be done. Its risky but it could and has worked. I however dont recommend this. Just buy a honer attachment for your drill and hone the block yourself before doing so. and atleast get the head milled to get rid of any soft metal and get a true surface for the head and head gasket to seal properly.

I also recommend that the head be serviced while its off ive been quoted another $850 which I also think is pricey. If you paying $850 for that to be done, may aswell add another $400-500 and get a fully ported and polished head from Lewis race engines.

Im in the process of getting prices to get the block sorted and get the head serviced. Will let you know how I go.

Can you build one of these motors with forged rods/pistons for under 5k?? Absolutely. Im doing that now. Thats is only forged short block/stock but serviced head. (mine already has all Tomei gear through the head). Its cheap. Sky is the limit for how much you want to spend/parts etc etc. Im not aiming for 1000hp, im more than happy at over 500rwhp. Hell my 1800kg BA XR8 makes 408rwhp 650nm, its slow lol ([email protected]) but im happy with that.

I know of 2 work shops that you can take your car to, drop it off, have forged Arias pistons put in.. all the machine work done, head serviced, all new gaskets.. have it run in for you Drive in Drive out deal for $4500. Can save yourself $800-1000 if you take the motor out/put it back in. The mechanic also drives/races an R33 so im inclined to trust him.

If anyone knows any decent machine shops/ head servicing places at reasonable pricing please let me know?

Thanks,

Matt

Edited August 20, 2011 by stiddy