Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

save the new turbo for the new bottom end and it will be a nicer install, feel nicer and the car will still have its nice response in the meantime...

It just occurred to me that I might have to get different dump pipes made up cos of the height difference in the blocks. Since the 30 is almost ready to go in (waiting on parts) I'm thinking now that what you are saying here might be the go. By the time I get the manifold the other parts should be here. They better be cos I ordered them last week.

  • Replies 139
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

4800rpm is massive lag, transient response will suck as well, being as you will have to limit it to 7500rpm for reliability that is only a ~2k power band. Just have a look at some videos on youtube to see how laggy it is.

Highly recommend a small highflow until you get everything ready.

You mean like this clip?

What hotside is the GT3582R going to be? And what manifold etc will you be running?

I honestly don't have an issue with what you are doing, and would consider doing it myself if you weren't needing the "ultimate" balance in the time being. You will need to change a few odd things in between, but if you enter it with your eyes open to the fact you'll be living with quite a lot of lag etc then all good. I've been in an R33 GTS25t running a stock motor with a .82a/r GT3582R, and it was laggy but liveable - and a ridiculous amount of fun to hoon around with :)

If you were not intending on upgrading the motor in the near future (or ever) then I'd say different, but doing research and buying a turbo, getting it to work purely because the turbo you will end up with doesn't perfectly suit the engine setup you will be running in the interim seems silly to me unless you have money to burn. You will lose money on that turbo, so its basically burning the stuff.

What hotside is the GT3582R going to be? And what manifold etc will you be running?

I honestly don't have an issue with what you are doing, and would consider doing it myself if you weren't needing the "ultimate" balance in the time being. You will need to change a few odd things in between, but if you enter it with your eyes open to the fact you'll be living with quite a lot of lag etc then all good. I've been in an R33 GTS25t running a stock motor with a .82a/r GT3582R, and it was laggy but liveable - and a ridiculous amount of fun to hoon around with :)

If you were not intending on upgrading the motor in the near future (or ever) then I'd say different, but doing research and buying a turbo, getting it to work purely because the turbo you will end up with doesn't perfectly suit the engine setup you will be running in the interim seems silly to me unless you have money to burn. You will lose money on that turbo, so its basically burning the stuff.

The hotside is .82. I spoke to Kyle at 6boost a week ago and he is making me a manifold and supplying a 50mm wastgate too. I have enough of the other necessary bits to max out the z32. I realize that I wont see much if any boost before 4k ish. I agree with you entirely about matching the turbo for the engine. If I was keeping the stock 25 then I would have got myself a bolt in hypergear turbo to put me around the high 200 rwkw mark. I haven't got money to burn and that's exactly why I got this turbo. Its only a maximum of 11 months and 2 weeks (yes I am counting it down) till its a 3.4 litre. I think that the 35r will be perfect on the car next year with the 3.4 spool kit :D As I have mentioned I may put the 30 in beforehand as a stock bottom end 3 litre. And before anyone says it, I know that I will be swapping a lot more bits to get the 3.4 working well. :cheers:

Yes, that is junk...

Hahaha it was a bit of a lame launch. More like a double launch. I've seen a few of your clips on youtube. Nice work man. I saw that you got kicked off the motorplex the first time you went out or something. Have you got back there yet?

Haha, ironically the turbo is probably too small for a grumpy 3.4 :P

Yeah man definitely short of the engines potential. I actually bought it to suit the rb30. Then I talked the missus into buying me the spool kit for my 32nd birthday. Oh well it'll still be fun to drive :D

Pretty much, he had to drop it at 4k in first even then it lagged. If you saw a vid of someone planting it at 3k in 2nd it would be a very long video.

It looked like he got off the throttle to me. Could be wrong tho. But yep big turbos have big lag and big power. Little turbos...you get the picture. I'll post a clip when I'm done so we can all see how much lag it has. I'll make a real long clip so we get a very good idea about what it's like. I'll go from idle rpm to see the spool from nothing. I'll spool it in each gear at different rpms and just create as many scenario's as I can that it would be used in. Thanks to my internet provider (unlimited flatout plan) it will all be in hd. I may even burn some rubber, or clutch depending... :P

Hahaha it was a bit of a lame launch. More like a double launch. I've seen a few of your clips on youtube. Nice work man. I saw that you got kicked off the motorplex the first time you went out or something. Have you got back there yet?

Won't go back unless ANDRA change their ancient rules and/or someone knocks off my record I might go back :whistling:

previous experience the best turbo for a street 2.5l has to be the gt3040 with a .63 rear housing, comes on boost quick as and still has the top end.

I assume you mean for an internally gated setup on the stock manifold, not going to get into that argument there are a million threads on that. For an aftermarket manifold with an external wastegate (which this thread owner is doing) then I reckon Simon with his T67 combo has the best setup.

Hey Rolls :D I've been speaking to a guy on here who has a very similar setup to what I will have. Reckons he sees 23 psi at 4800 and makes about 420 rhwp.

420rwhp from a GT35 0.82 with 23psi that is terrible. You should be able to make that with a GT30 turbo with 1000rpm better response.

I would put more focus on the supporting mods like a free flowing intake and exhaust and a quality intercooler. These supporting mods will be even more important when you do go 3L+.

420rwhp from a GT35 0.82 with 23psi that is terrible. You should be able to make that with a GT30 turbo with 1000rpm better response.

I would put more focus on the supporting mods like a free flowing intake and exhaust and a quality intercooler. These supporting mods will be even more important when you do go 3L+.

420 was the guys guess. The dyno sheet showed 470 rwhp or something at 26 psi. I think my intercooler will be ok for a while. Although it is bar and plate it has 3 inch ends and the core is 600by300by100. The intercooler piping is only 2.5 inch tho. The intake manifold is still stock but will be swapped out for a greddy sooner or later. I have done about 6 hours of solid reading this morning and from what I gather I can push the absolute crap out of my engine (for limited bursts) with the right tune etc. It will be pushed to the limit of whatever parts are currently on the car. That's probably the fuel pump, a walbro 341. Or the stock coil packs.

Won't go back unless ANDRA change their ancient rules and/or someone knocks off my record I might go back :whistling:

How close will I get to your record I wonder? I think my car wont like getting flogged down the strip much. The syncro's are a little worn. Wont stop me from taking for a few runs tho.

Are you going to tune for E85? Give it a hearty dose of boost with that and it should be alright with a good tune ;)

I would except there isn't E85 available at the pump in Perth yet. I've read that most rb engine failures occur from lack of oil, excess revs and detonation. Hardly anything about breaking internals from power. The first one, oil, is a bit out of my hands. I can only put the best stuff in and add a little extra at the moment. Later I will sort out an oil cooler. I can definitely control my revs and definitely control the det. I'll tune it right to the edge on bp98 but not so it knocks. But obviously with heaps less timing than E85. The tune is there now up to load 17. I just have to sort out loads 18,19 and 20 on the power fc. I've put a tune there but haven't seen it in action yet.

I assume you mean for an internally gated setup on the stock manifold, not going to get into that argument there are a million threads on that. For an aftermarket manifold with an external wastegate (which this thread owner is doing) then I reckon Simon with his T67 combo has the best setup.

Actually i was talking about the external wastegated version, thats what i had before the internally gated ones for stock set up were even around. And a bush bearing turbo vs a ball bearing setup...you still reckong the t67 is the best, its old now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...