Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesterday I installed a carbon boot lip spoiler purchased from Kukumei Motorsports on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com....af#ht_500wt_922

For less that $200 AUD delivered (within 7 days!) I was extremely happy with the quality of the product, fitment was simple (quality 3M tape supplied) and most importantly it covers the plugged holes we had in the boot since removing the previous owners cheap-ass wing.

A couple of pics attached...

post-50122-0-86519300-1313627075_thumb.jpg

post-50122-0-08193500-1313627316_thumb.jpg

post-50122-0-39400500-1313627348_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374434-new-spoiler/
Share on other sites

Yesterday I installed a carbon boot lip spoiler purchased from Kukumei Motorsports on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com....af#ht_500wt_922

For less that $200 AUD delivered (within 7 days!) I was extremely happy with the quality of the product, fitment was simple (quality 3M tape supplied) and most importantly it covers the plugged holes we had in the boot since removing the previous owners cheap-ass wing.

A couple of pics attached...

Nice one, Andrew. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374434-new-spoiler/#findComment-5972483
Share on other sites

Thanks for the positive reply's guys. As money permits, the wife would like to fit a full kit and has showed a real interest in the R35 GTR kits getting around. I'm in two minds on this but hey, its not my car and if thats what she wants, thats what she will get - happy wife = happy life!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374434-new-spoiler/#findComment-5974992
Share on other sites

wing looks good!

did u patch up the boot holes at all? if not water may still get in and cause rust over time.

pls do NOT get the R35 gtr kit, it looks sh*t.....

Holes were taped off so I am hopeful that this will keep them as rust free as possible. Time will tell I guess. As I said, I am not keen on the GTR kit either so a bit of gentle persuasion will be needed to find a kit thats more suited to the V series. There is plenty of images on G35driver, Google images etc that I am confident will make her see it my way!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374434-new-spoiler/#findComment-5975208
Share on other sites

Holes were taped off so I am hopeful that this will keep them as rust free as possible. Time will tell I guess. As I said, I am not keen on the GTR kit either so a bit of gentle persuasion will be needed to find a kit thats more suited to the V series. There is plenty of images on G35driver, Google images etc that I am confident will make her see it my way!

Hey Andrew, just a thought regarding the body kit.

Since it's your wife's car, I am guessing she will do more driving daily. In that case, I would suggust getting a subtle and not all-out kit like Greddy, Chargespeed, etc. V35 are pretty low from factory. Even with 19 inch wheels and low profile tyres on mine, I would scrapped on bumps if I don't slow down. After putting on Veilside + Webersport body kit, I am not confident on driving on ramps that look high anymore.

So unless the car is only driven on weekends from point A to B on the road that you know very well, it won't be a good idea. Just a subtle kit like JP Visage, Nismo or even lowered with no kit look good for me. :)

Edited by VNS 24
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374434-new-spoiler/#findComment-5975386
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...