My C33 Laurel

[DannyC33]

no catch can. unfortunately haha

[DannyC33]

not really an update as such. but ive finally gotten around to sorting out the stereo for the laurel.

after a lot of comparing and testing things out.

ive decided to give jay car a go.

currently have a set of 6x9 kevlar coax in the rear. 6.5" kevlar coax in the front.

with a 4x100wrms response precision amp and a 1x1000wrms mono block response precision amp.

all new wiring and some vibration matting. will hopefully get it installed this weekend

assuming stock comes in so i can pick up the 10" vifa 300wrms sub and the mono block.

on more of a aesthetic point. ive decided i want new wheels.

tryin to decide between cr kai. volk ce28ns, orgin dna02.

im not at all bothered by copies. rota/koya that kinda thing. they all do the same thing.

what do people think?

[toffy]

I like the wheels on it (perhaps they are a little bit sedate, but more aggressive wheels means guard work) , imo , club s lip and Autech side skirts would be the next on the to do list outside , then stance , laurels love low

[DannyC33]

I do like the wheels on it currently. How ever I can't get them to stop leaking.

I've tried everything. The next step is to fork out 130 per wheel and have them professionally sealed up and hope that fixes the problem.

I've been thinkin that if I go down that path I'll get some new lips made up. Put the rear lips on the front and get wider rears so that I don't have to run spacers for good fitment.

As for the styling. If I could find a club s lip I'd already own it haha I've even asked streeter to find me one.

I have a set of side skirts lined up. But waiting to get the lip before I bother.

[DannyC33]

Ok so I found out today exactly what my wheels are.

They are called work equip anhelos.

From the searching I did today they appear for be extremely rare and expensive

The few sets I found for sale/sold were chasing between 1500-2000 dollars us. For specs and condition similar to mine.

So now I've decent decided I'm just gonna keep them. Save some cash do some measuring and see how much wider I can make them. Then get them professionally refurbed and sealed. Thinkin about paintings the centres a light high metallic silver and high polish on the dish.

Plan is to fit the rear lips to the fronts and get new wider rear lips.

[DannyC33]

So I noticed the other day the loom that runs in the drivers side guard is gettin chewed out by the tire. I was thinkin about repairing it and putting a plate over it but then thought maybe I'd be better off relocating it.

Has anyone done this and if so how hard is it and where/how do I run the loom??

Cheers

[RBC33]

I think they usually tuck it up over the outside of the inner guard if that makes sense

sorta like this, (excuse the huge size and ignore the arrown and circled section its just a googled image to give you the kist of where to relocate it )

Edited October 17, 2012 by RBC33

[DannyC33]

Ok cool. I'll sus it out on the weekend.

[toffy]

try some of that tyre in a can stuff , i forget what it's called but it's used to pump blown tyres up instead of having a spare wheel , a friend of mine did this to his symmons and they are still fine today (3 or 4 years ago) and he goes through back tyres quite often... i got my club s lip from streeter , it was expensive to bring over but imo was worth it . As for the wiring , they tuck up fairly easily once you take the guard off , but make sure you use something decent to hold it up

[DannyC33]

Tire in a can? I'll have a sus of that. Yeah I'm still having issues finding a club s lip. Thinkin about makin a 32 gtr lip to fit.

And ya gonna sus the loom out on the weekend.

[RBC33]

try some of that tyre in a can stuff , i forget what it's called but it's used to pump blown tyres up instead of having a spare wheel , a friend of mine did this to his symmons and they are still fine today (3 or 4 years ago) and he goes through back tyres quite often... i got my club s lip from streeter , it was expensive to bring over but imo was worth it . As for the wiring , they tuck up fairly easily once you take the guard off , but make sure you use something decent to hold it up

Tire in a can? I'll have a sus of that. Yeah I'm still having issues finding a club s lip. Thinkin about makin a 32 gtr lip to fit.

And ya gonna sus the loom out on the weekend.

I think i had something similar to that somewhere. You pump it in and it seals the tyre up so you can drive at 60kms/h or so to get you out of trouble.

Never thought of using it to seal up a rim though, thats a pretty good idea

As for a club s lip thats another thing i've trolled YJP for, never seen one in the few months i was looking around on it, and i was checking it every 2nd day

[DannyC33]

It's not that green shit is it? Tire slime or somethin along those lines?

[DannyC33]

so recently i had to replace the tires on my volks as they were well passed the use by date.

walked into the shed to get the equips so i could have the tires stripped off and fitted to the volks.

as i pulled the first one off the pile i noticed it bounced when it hit the ground... thinkin thats odd maybe this was the one out of the four that didnt leak when put in the water bath.

i continued to pull the other tires off and realised they all 4 were still hard.

so i fitted them up to the laurel, went for a drive and parked the car up over night. expecting the tires to be flat the next morning.

i was wrong. all four are still rock hard and have not lost a single psi.

im thinkin that maybe what i saw as a leak when they were tested was just little bubbles of air that had been caught in the silicone bein forced out under the pressure of the tire.

they have been on the car now for 2 weeks and all good.

will see what happens when they need new tires again next time.

on a different topic.

the engine in the laurel is gettin a little tired. its losing water somewhere but not leaking it anywhere.

so i suspect head gasket and its juts pushin it straight into the exhaust as its not mixing with the oil.

its also still popping the dipstick out slightly after a hard drive. so i suspect rings are shot.

im in the process of getting a few quotes for the parts to rebuild it, and I will be building the motor myself.

planning on just a basic rebuild with forged pistons and a set of poncams.

how ever pending how long i put it off and how the bank accounts are looking i might drop the head off at lewis engines to have them port the head out and re seat the valves and such.

so far from what ive found,

if i go for a completely stock rebuild with standard cams and no head work its gonna run me about $2200.

if i got for cams its about $3100

and if i get the head done also its pushin $4300.

what do people think about doin the head? worth while?

the cams are just drop in spec so no need to change anything.

and will give me a bit of a mid range beef up from what ive heard.

before anyone says it. no im not gonna pull the 20 out and put a 25 in.

i simply dont like doin engine swaps.

[toffy]

just put a wrecker 20 in it , i have never seen a rebuilt 20 take the punishment an un opened one usually will! , just make sure it's healthy

[DannyC33]

I thought about that. But I just don't trust it. I know a lot of people have good experiences with wrecker motors.

But knowing my luck I'll end up with a dud that'll pop to soon. Or already have issues.

And from what I've seen around Adelaide rb20s are still costing above $1200.

I'd rather spend the extra $1000 and have somethin I know will be reliable.

[DannyC33]

so just got back from gettin it retuned.

safe to same im dissapointed.

after fixing the restriction in the exhaust caused by the cat its reduced my boost drop of over 3psi in the top end down to 1-1.5 psi.

its holding peak power longer which is also good.

how ever. this has had a double edged sword effect.

in doin this its increased the air flow through the afm to a point where its reading past the mapping and caused a significant drop in both midrange and top end power as it was retarding the timing.

went from 174rwkw to 160rwkw.

few runs later on the dyno we got it back up to 173. still lacking the midrange it had previously.

on the final two runs after some more fiddling with the maps it made 180.3 and was at about 90% of the midrange power it had last time.

still a gain on 6rwkw, but now i need to buy a new afm haha. always somethin with cars ey?

because of the afm bein maxxed out its causing rough readings and basically cant do shit else to it untill i get a z32 afm.

on the plus side. shaun (boostworx) said my rb20 seems healthy and that he wouldnt bother pullin it down and rebuilding it. its not knocking or doing anythin silly, and says that at most it probably just needs a head gasket, vrs set and a new timing belt.

so thats good. will save me a couple grand that can be spent else where.

[RBC33]

i read somewhere on secret drift about people in japan using 35gtr afm's instead of z32's as they are cheaper? Maybe look into it, idk i think the guy on secret drift was saying something about needing to modify something, but he was selling his "custom made" plug and play kit for $250.

Sorry for being vague, old mates post didnt make much sense when i read it as he has the punctuation skills of a 10 year old

[DannyC33]

Haha sounds interesting. I will have a sus on sd later

[RBC33]

heres the link to make life a bit easier

http://secretdrift.invisionzone.com/index.php?showtopic=46783&hl=%2Bgtr+%2Bair+%2Bflow+%2Bmeter

[DannyC33]

wow been a while since i updated this.

i bought a vs statesman in december as a tow car/daily so that the laurel didnt have to see so much road time.

after all the coil overs, low profile tires and recaro seats dont exactly make for comfortable daily driving.

in this time ive been saving some cash, believe it or not the 5ltr v8 in the statesman is better on fuel then the laurel,

in the coming weeks ill be getting a new afm hopefully, looks like im gonna be goin away from the z32 route.

been told from one of my mates (which happens to be one of the guys that created nistune) that they have managed to get the newer style afms from the 35 gtr to work with nistune and they seem to be a lot cheaper, and higher resolution.

reason for getting the statesman is i plan on hitting the track fairly often from now on, and dont wish to be running the risk of breaking the laurel out on the track and having no way home.