Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What I've always wanted to know is what are R34 and R33 GTR drivers talking about when they say their car has XXX RWKW? Surely they aren't taking the driveshaft out of the transfer case to get these readings, and to my knowledge only the 32's AWD can be disabled by pulling a fuse. Is there a way to disable AWD in a 33/34 GTR?

Yep. Pull the shaft.

Is it because they don't have an AWD dyno available? If I had an AWD car I'd prefer an AWKW figure.

Pretty much. Those tuners who do have an AWD dyno will use it to measure awkW.

  • 4 months later...

My R32 GTR with only an Exhaust after the catalact convertor did 203 kw at the rears, Evrything else was stock

that 206kw shit they talk about is bullshit ! the gtr is in another league comparing them to evo's and wrx's is quiet and insult to the makers..

hense

now with the R35 THEY MADE IT VERY CLEAR THEY DONT EVEN WANT TO COMPARE THE GTRs TO THESE CARs, BUT INSTEAD: PORSHE, FERRARI, LAMBO etc...

Edited by GTRAAH

And flywheel to wheels loss also comes with some controversy. Some claim about 25% loss from flywheel to wheels, but personally I guess it is mostly a fixed amount, not a simple%...otherwise a 1000kw car would be loosing 250kw in the drivetrain :teehee:

In rebuttal to this;

I've heard that autos are around the 15-20%

Manuals around 10-15%.

And I would think a percentage COULD be relevant.

The faster the motor turns, and gearbox and diff, the more oil will be squeezed through the oil pump, and squeezed from the gears.

It's like a boat through water, the liquid can't move out of the way as fast, and it requires more power/torque to displace.

This is my thoughts on the matter, unfortunately, I've never done or had the opportunity to do testing.

Would love to find out though.

Thanks for reading my rant.

My R32 GTR with only an Exhaust after the catalact convertor did 203 kw at the rears, Evrything else was stock

that 206kw shit they talk about is bullshit ! the gtr is in another league comparing them to evo's and wrx's is quiet and insult to the makers..

hense

now with the R35 THEY MADE IT VERY CLEAR THEY DONT EVEN WANT TO COMPARE THE GTRs TO THESE CARs, BUT INSTEAD: PORSHE, FERRARI, LAMBO etc...

Cool Story!

In rebuttal to this;

I've heard that autos are around the 15-20%

Manuals around 10-15%.

And I would think a percentage COULD be relevant.

The faster the motor turns, and gearbox and diff, the more oil will be squeezed through the oil pump, and squeezed from the gears.

It's like a boat through water, the liquid can't move out of the way as fast, and it requires more power/torque to displace.

This is my thoughts on the matter, unfortunately, I've never done or had the opportunity to do testing.

Would love to find out though.

Thanks for reading my rant.

Under the laws of physics energy can not be created or destroyed, it may only change state.

Therefore to lose 250kws you need it to become another form of energy other then kinetic... That normally means sound or heat...

While 1000kw cars may be noisy, they are not producing 250kw of noise... Nor are they boiling diff and gearbox oil or melting metal parts... Hence they can't be making 250rwkw in heat either...

They're not storing so no potential energy and I don't see them getting brighter, therefore they're not pitting it out in light energy...

Since there is no other energy forms available... They must be putting most of that power through in kinetic energy...

Most losses are caused from drag, primarily from bearings, which have a set coefficient of friction, meaning that it's primarily a constant loss, not a percentage loss.

Autos and manuals do "lose" different amounts of power purely from the design of the trans and torque converters/clutch. The main part of this is the torque converter, as it is designed to slip a kittle and use a liquid to transmit power, this means you end up losing power in the form of heat in this scenario, but only a bit.

The loss is a fixed amount, NOT a percentage.

Though more correct then the straight % loss this is also incorrect. There's certainly a lot of car forums quoting their theory's but little facts, it seems very hard to point to real facts without going through the science which would send most car forum people to sleep. Duncan first post probably was as close as simple reality can get.

I refer to a Wheels magazine comparison of quoted KW and tested RWKW, between high output falcons and commo's. There was common theme of 40-50kw loss between 240-310kw, lower loss for the less powerful in general.

So if we say 40-50kw is a fixed amount, what happens to cars that output less then 40kw, there has been a few in years gone by. Do they not move?

In reality the formula would be closer to a parabolic equation with a high % for low power cars and getting less % for high powered cars. Certainly different cars have different power loss due to differing designs and maintenance. 300rwkw approximatly equals 350fwkw.

Again you can't tell some people, most in the ford forums still quote the old 30% that went out years ago. Sure my 300rwkw car has 400fwkw??? sure....

In reality the formula would be closer to a parabolic equation with a high % for low power cars and getting less % for high powered cars. Certainly different cars have different power loss due to differing designs and maintenance. 300rwkw approximatly equals 350fwkw.

I think that is that case as well. i don't think it follows a set % or a fixed number.

My 2 cents,

Owning a R33 Vspec and having 500+ runs on the Advan Performance 4wd dyno under my belt, we have noticed a few things.

1. Peter will only tune the GTR in RWD due to the attessa interfering with the amount of 4 wheel power delivery ( almost every run it's slightly different based on how the attessa feels at the time).

2. Based on the same tractive effort, the 4wd kw figure seems to vary by about 5-10kw on almost every run. This is also spaced days apart on the same tune so heat soak is not a factor here. The RWD figure on the same tune remained within 2-3kw every run.

3. My GTR's 4wd mode generally saps about 15kw from my peak power figure (within the variable bracket I stated at item 2.) It's simple physics as was said before, there is always going to be some power loss to the treads and more so when the engine is trying to drive 2 drive shafts and 4 axles instead of 1 shaft and 2 axles.

IMHO it's not the peak power you make in these things that's important, it's all about the torque you can produce to keep the 4wd system accelerating right up through the rev range which makes all the difference...

Fun too :-)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...